top end rebuild

ghoegler

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
59
0
0
independence, ohio
well first i need to know what you guys think caused it to blow bc i am dumbfounded that it blew. its bone stock cheery with v force reeds and spacer, no rejet my local yamaha dealership told me i didnt have to do it and it was uneccisary. girlfriend was riding it in second and downshifted to first for a turn it siezed. i stood on the kickstart and got it freed. pulled the plug and the clearence was squeezed shut and there were little metal like balls inside the plug. put a different plug in it got it to run it takes alot of throttle to get it into the first and torqe wise its week until about midgear first. Can you guys tell me 1) what caused it or at least a good direction to look 2) what i am up against as far as cash 3) how would i go about the rebuild pull the motor? thanks in advance
 
What caused it could of been a few things. Since you are still running the oil injection it could of stopped working. Or an air leak. Or lean on the jetting. Does it have a stock or aftermarket air filter is the airbox lid on or off?

During your rebuild you should delete the oil injection system and premix...

As for a top end rebuild you will need a new piston kit and topend gasket kit.

First thing to do is get the head and cylinder off and check to see what damage you have. Then go from there....
 
1.) It may have been running lean, or it was just worn out

2.) Figure 200-250 bucks to fix it

3.) all it takes is just pull the carb, pull the 6 head bolts, pull the 4 base nuts, and take the pipe off and slide the top end off. pretty easy
 
its slightly more involved than that but not much. its really easy though, took me about 45 minutes to replace my base gasket on mine
 
its slightly more involved than that but not much. its really easy though, took me about 45 minutes to replace my base gasket on mine
Reason I ask is cause I did a compression test on my blaster and got 65psi.....was tempted to do the top end rebuild myself but was scared of doing it wrong.does $375 sound reasonable for parts and labor?
 
that sounds about right. you could probably save a little more than 100 bucks doing the work yourself.


the biggest thing that you guys have to remember is there's a reason that it let go, and you need to figure out why it burnt up in the first place or it'll just do it again
 
I don't know where you guys get your prices from, but I have got the parts to do mine (Wiseco .060 over piston kit-$68.00 and gasket set-$24.00) and I am taking the cylinder to the machine shop tomorrow to get it bored and honed ($35.00). So, for roughly $125.00 I will get it done myself.
You don't even have to pull the motor to do it. Remove the tank, carb, and cylinder (in that order), then take the circlip out of the piston, remove the wrist pin and your done with taking it apart. It's best to look at a manual to get all the steps right. Here is a link to one:
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/
Good luck. remember to follow torque specs and torque everything again after a couple of heat cycles.
Another thing to remember: break-in is key. Follow these instructions to the letter:
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...p-end-rebuild-4399/?highlight=break+procedure
 
I don't know where you guys get your prices from, but I have got the parts to do mine (Wiseco .060 over piston kit-$68.00 and gasket set-$24.00) and I am taking the cylinder to the machine shop tomorrow to get it bored and honed ($35.00). So, for roughly $125.00 I will get it done myself.
You don't even have to pull the motor to do it. Remove the tank, carb, and cylinder (in that order), then take the circlip out of the piston, remove the wrist pin and your done with taking it apart. It's best to look at a manual to get all the steps right. Here is a link to one:
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/
Good luck. remember to follow torque specs and torque everything again after a couple of heat cycles.
Another thing to remember: break-in is key. Follow these instructions to the letter:
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...p-end-rebuild-4399/?highlight=break+procedure

next rebuild i'll give it a shot on my own....how often should a top end be rebuild??
 
I don't know where you guys get your prices from, but I have got the parts to do mine (Wiseco .060 over piston kit-$68.00 and gasket set-$24.00) and I am taking the cylinder to the machine shop tomorrow to get it bored and honed ($35.00). So, for roughly $125.00 I will get it done myself.
You don't even have to pull the motor to do it. Remove the tank, carb, and cylinder (in that order), then take the circlip out of the piston, remove the wrist pin and your done with taking it apart. It's best to look at a manual to get all the steps right. Here is a link to one:
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/
Good luck. remember to follow torque specs and torque everything again after a couple of heat cycles.
Another thing to remember: break-in is key. Follow these instructions to the letter:
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-...p-end-rebuild-4399/?highlight=break+procedure


where are you finding a wiseco kit that cheap? i see them for around 90 most of the time. and the machine work usually runs around 50 for most guys. i think you're just getting better deals lol
 
I have been bargaining with the guy for two weeks on the piston kit, so not everyone will get that good of a deal on one, but the machining is full price.