Top-End Questions.....

[PikledBeats]

So Ok, some of you know what I've been up to, but I am prepping a cylinder for a motor that is ready to go. So this is where I'm at. The cylinder has been sandblasted including head, cleaned, cross-hatched, and oiled (so no flash-rust). Ok, so It came out pretty clean, but my main question is, there is either a tiny bit of paint left or carbon buildup in the ports right where they meet the cylinder. I am a little confused as it seems that from the factory everything was painted minus the sleeve. I assume this was not blasted fully off as the machinist would have had to do it from inside of cylinder (took care not to wreck hone). Anyway, is there something that will remove this safely or is ok to run like this if fully cleaned. I am worried about it flaking off into cylinder at a later time since it has already been hit with an abrasive?


Second, It seems as if painting the jug is a topic of debate. I know it will run slightly cooler not painted, but is there a downside to this. It seems that cleaning it would be easier as you can use an abrasive and not worry about paint peeling. Maybe just some opinions would help me make up my mind.

 

[Blaner]

about painting.. i was in the same predicament earlier this year, i actually painted it all then had it blasted off as i chaged my mind. some say that black paint helps to draw heat out of the metal, however, if you have a non black primer underneath, this theory is invalid! if you do paint it, keep the paint as thin as possible as thick 2K paint is like running around with your jacket on in the desert...you going to insulate the cylinder...the opposite of what you want.

I left mine bare, i was worried about mud baking onto it and messing it up but its looking great, still as good as when i put it on!
my suggestion? dont paint, if you do, do it lightly.

 

[PikledBeats]

about painting.. i was in the same predicament earlier this year, i actually painted it all then had it blasted off as i chaged my mind. some say that black paint helps to draw heat out of the metal, however, if you have a non black primer underneath, this theory is invalid! if you do paint it, keep the paint as thin as possible as thick 2K paint is like running around with your jacket on in the desert...you going to insulate the cylinder...the opposite of what you want.

I left mine bare, i was worried about mud baking onto it and messing it up but its looking great, still as good as when i put it on!
my suggestion? dont paint, if you do, do it lightly.

Thanks for the suggestion, I think I might be leaving it bare, it is so clean it actually looks painted, any thoughts on the paint? in ports near cylinder

 

[Blaner]

i wouldnt worry about the paint in the casting...that stuff is tough, it will probably stick there forever, but if you can scratch it off it would be best, but its no big deal i dont think

 

[UncagedShadow]

Take a dremel to the paint in the ports. Thats what i did after watching ken's self port video. I didnt really do any porting, i just took all the paint off, smoothed the ports, and removed any casting flaws that were visible. I did end up taking some material off the sides of and bridge of the intake but im not sure if that did anything for power or not.

 

[blasterfreek30]

dont sweat the paint inside the transfers bro, if it flakes off it will just be burned up instantly...no worries

 

[PikledBeats]

Good deal guys thanks, I ended up taking my dremel with the wire brush tool and was able to clean it all out. I have smoothed the exhaust port and am not going to mess with transfer tunnels (as they are now totally clean). Surprisingly the casting flaws were not bad on intake, I cleaned it up slightly, though did not "port" anything on this head. Thanks for advice.

@blasterfreek - Is your cylinder painted silver or just cleaned/polished? Is that a drag build I see in your sig.......hmmmm... thats why you don't have time to make me a case saver......lol, j/k, no, looking good, everybody seems to be building a dragger this summer.