Toomey b1 owners

95blasta

Member
Oct 8, 2013
160
2
33
West,Tn
Ok so this whole time I thought my head pipe was stock.the thing is I don't believe it is.my bike came with the toomey badged uni filter.so I decided to sand the rusty head pipe n noticed I have the blue anonizded flange and b1 on the pipe.any toomey owners contest this is a toomey pipe
 
definately a toomey pipe.
be sure your jetted for it, i believe toomey recommends a 310-320
i get away with a 300 for the thinner air at my 1800'+ elevation
 
I think previous owner bought the whole kit because it's hot the 310 jet and air filter that comes in the kit.i bet they just bought the raw finish since it's cheaper
 
Took a drill and rust stripping attatchment to the head pipe today and it cleaned up real nice.if it would rust i would have left it alone but knowing better i got some oriellys engine enamel in gold.it dont really look that bad.pics to follow later today.
Also i went with gold bc im plannin on stealing the gold wheels off my shee for the lil blasty
 
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

2wr2fwo.jpg



This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

plug152mainmediumoi2.jpg


You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
 
I hope that is heat resistant paint and of the right temp or its going to peel really quickly. It looks really good though im diggin the gold!
 
Will do blaaster,gottA fix a crank seal first :( and thanx warmeck it is heat resistant its engine enamel from oriellys