Threebond Intake sealing issues

Blaster72

New Member
Jun 30, 2011
98
1
8
Nebraska
As the title says. I got a leak tester from Awk and found my leak between intake boot and reed cage. I used Threebond 1184 to seal the leak. I've run it about 1 1/2 hours with a break every 30 minutes. I have a temp gun and decided to check the head temp. I noticed little bubbles popping out of the threebond in the same place I had my air leak. It was on top where intake boot meets reed cage. The temp there was 240F. Maybe threebond isn't for high temp applications. Just curious what you fellow riders use. I'm guessing that it developes and air leak after getting warmed up. I'm going to leak test again and see what happens. I'm really annoyed right now. I've been screwing around since April trying to get leak tested and sealed up. Anyhow that is my rant for now. Hope someone can help.:-/
 
High temperature Copper RTV.

Hey Blaaster. The gasket between the reed cage and cylinder is toast. Can I get away with making a permatex gasket? Or Should I order a factory gasket? That threebond was a biotch to clean up. I think the reed cage gasket was leaking top and bottom. I know I can count on you for a good reply.I:I
 
It is preferable to use a proper gasket as the RTV takes some time to set, and if you only use it instead of a gasket you may need to use extra to fill the voids.

Any gasket material squeezing into the intake tract should be avoided.

Only use just enough RTV to give the perfect seal.

If a gasket is not available, you may use gasket material and fabricate one for yourself.
 
It is preferable to use a proper gasket as the RTV takes some time to set, and if you only use it instead of a gasket you may need to use extra to fill the voids.

Any gasket material squeezing into the intake tract should be avoided.

Only use just enough RTV to give the perfect seal.

If a gasket is not available, you may use gasket material and fabricate one for yourself.

Thanks. Will get a gasket ordered asap.
 
I have to argue with the copper RTV. It will work, I have used it, but is not really fuel compatible. The Threebond 1194 is the right stuff, but it will not fill big cracks and voids like RTV does. My son and I had this issue (leaking reed box) on his Blaster.

1) All surfaces have to be flat. Sand with glass and fine sandpaper if you can. They are notorious for pulling and bowing from bolts being overtightened.
2) New gasket should be used. They are cheap and it eliminates any doubt.
3) Do not OVERTIGHTEN the bolts. The long distance between bolts assures leaks if you overtighten. We were able to verify this with leak testing.
4) Light coat of proper sealer, not essential if everything else is perfect, but assures long lasting seal.

Steve
 
As best mentioned the bolts must not be over tightened as the cage will surely warp.

5.8 ft lbs diagonally and incrementally, a little bit at a time.
 
As best mentioned the bolts must not be over tightened as the cage will surely warp.

5.8 ft lbs diagonally and incrementally, a little bit at a time.

Is it possible for the reed cage to be warped? I used a straight edge on the cage. It touches on each outer edge but there is a very small gap in the middle. The intake boot is nice and flat. Maybe they are all like this. I'm waiting for a new gasket and boot to show up and then will try to seal it up again.
 
I bet the new boot does the trick as it is supposed to have a form of built in rubber gasket to seal with. Problem is as they get old and heat and cool the rubber gets hard and flat and wont seal. I have same exact problem right now and will be making a gasket, same as other one, to put there. I will order exact gasket also to have for next time its apart.