thoughts on using high temp header wrap on my exaust to drop temp above head for additional power?

[98mod]

I ordered some header wrap todo my exaust and theoretically drop the temp above head for better cooling for the fins and possibly gain a little power. The header goes right over the top and is really close to the front of motor. I'm hoping this will keep it a little cooler and maybe aid in a little more power. Along with making a way to cool the fuel. Any insight or thoughts are appreciated... well it came in today and i went ahead and wrapped header pipe. I rode it around my back lot for about 15-20min killed it and touched my hand to top of head it seemed to drop temp some so i guess it worked as far as power gains not to shure installed slim reed spacer also while I was at it and she's running pretty good

 

[joeak47]

I don't see you getting any performance gain from the wrap. It would definitely insulate the pipe and hold in heat though. When and not "if" the wrap gets wet, you'll have a nice rusty pipe in no time! Guarantee it!
A carb spacer does nothing to improve power, but does add another gasket to increase chances of a potential leak.
A carb spacer (I believe the 3/8" thick one) give the necessary clearance above the clutch arm to run a larger carb.

Tell us about your blaster and what you have done to it.
What pipe?
What carb?
What air filter?
What modifications?

 

[98mod]

Not many upgrades haven't checked carb numbers. It did have wiseco forged piston but it was scared up badly so I bored to fit 66.5 namura high compression piston vitos .head gasket and milled .20thousanths off head with a pocket port. The crank is hotrods kit. And boysen reeds with spacer. And different sprockets. The exaust is stock at moment. Got alluminumn wheels coming and twist throttle with tors elimination kit

 

[joeak47]

Sounds like you have a fun project going! I highly recommend a quality pipe and silencer... and a selection of jets.

 

[98mod]

Do i need to selsect pipe compared to piston type flow range excetra. Or just a good aftermarket

 

[Blaaster]

Select a pipe on the basis of where you want the power to be. Low or high or all round.

 

[98mod]

What's a good recommended one for all around? Ala where's the identifying my cab section mine says made in Japan can't find ma- or keh cast on it

 

[joeak47]

What's a good recommended one for all around? Ala where's the identifying my cab section mine says made in Japan can't find ma- or keh cast on it

?

 

[98mod]

Blaster gave few options on power band and header pipe selection. I was wondering what a good recommended brand be for all around performance instead of me wrapping it. And is there a section or write up on identifying a carb . Mine just says made in Japan do set say makuni or the Kelvin brand, or where the location would be to identify.

 

[BlasterFun484]

Blaster has practicaly an infinity amount of options on pipes and how you want your power, the most options ever out of any atv. A decent and affordable all around would be dmc, fmf, pro circuit... Stock replacement "lol" dg, than your better pipe toomey and you more serious available pipes ct, dynoport and a few other pipes available but not listed im between

 

[joeak47]

A decent and affordable all around would be dmc, fmf, pro circuit... Stock replacement "lol" dg, than your better pipe toomey

Better pipe? What does that mean??? "Better pipe"...hmmmm

and you more serious available pipes

More serious available pipes? What does that mean? "More serious pipe"
I say ...hmmmm

Awesome recommendations for a pipe! (rolling my eyes). I'm glad I'm not calling up a bike shop on line and asking for either one of those versions.

Blaaster is correct when he says to choose the pipe "on where you want the power to be".
This is important! That's because not all of us race around a track all day, or drag race in a strait line all day. Most of us are using the power that our blasters make on all sorts of different terrain and at different speeds.
I don't know about you, but I'm all over the map with the "RPM's" when I ride.

If you fit in the category that 90% of us fit in, which is going up hill, down hill, hammering it in the turns, hammering the throttle up hill, pulling wheelies, racing your buddies, going top speed in the traits, etc, a
"all around" pipe is perfect!
These pipes include, but are not limited to
1... FMF Fatty
2... DMC Alien
3... Pro Circuit
4... Toomey

All great pipes and in no particular order. Choose one. These pipe promote mid-range
and do it well!
These pipes will give you what your looking for, and then some!
These pipes work great with cylinder porting, head re-chambering, timing advances,
bigger carbs, Better reeds,etc,etc!

These pipes are build well. The DMC Alien and the Toomey seal VERY well all over.
No need for rtv at the head. These pipes cost a bit more, but in my opinion, may be worth it, if you prefer no leaks (possible oil drip) at the head. The Toomey has individual parts available. For instance... you can repair without having to purchase an entire replacement silencer. Just purchase the parts you need.

Have a couple grand to dump in your labor of love blaster?
Going to build that 240 + size engine?
Going to put in that stroker crank, port it for top end scream, put a huge carb on it and race it in a strait line all the time and only use it mostly in the upper rpm's of the power band? Then the right bend pipe, or perhaps a drag pipe might be for you!

These include, but are not limited to
1... CT
2... Dynaport
3... etc,etc... most have been discontinued.

These pipes were designed for top end scream! Some of the right bend pipes fit like sh&t and need beaten into place, and some fit better than others. There was even one out there (can't remember the brand) that was "adjustable" , so that you could adjust the "tuned length" of the pipe. I called it an adjustable leak.

Bottom line... A proper pipe choice that is JETTED PROPERLY...and that is the key...
will give you what your looking for.
A "better pipe", "more serious pipe", or a "super duper pipe" is only as good as the proper jetting it receives, and the up-graded components that you add to promote air flow, such as PORTING and HEAD RE-CHAMBERING, Better reeds like VForce 4, better air filter, etc.

Please do not waste your time, or rely on stickers, decals, reed spacers, OVER sized carbs, more stickers, fake "240" kits that are actually only a .040 over bore, race cut fenders, fancy seat covers, stupid aftermarket water cooled (therm-syphon) heads, AMP links, etc to make more power on your blaster.

None of the above crap is necessary. There are easier ways to waste your money and add weight to your blaster
Just be honest with yourself, use common sense, and have some money!

Sorry for the long rant. Hope this helps somebody out.

Almost forgot...
I've never understood why some folks spend LOTS of money on parts that don't work, but refuse to spent like $60 to $80 for cylinder boring that produces a round, strait bore with no taper.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Blaster gave few options on power band and header pipe selection. I was wondering what a good recommended brand be for all around performance instead of me wrapping it. And is there a section or write up on identifying a carb . Mine just says made in Japan do set say makuni or the Kelvin brand, or where the location would be to identify.

On left side by slide cap it should say Mikuni Corp, by float bowl made in Japan.
Kehine runs vertical down slide area.

 

[jus_me]

Take a pic and post it. It could be an oko or a cheap Keihin/oko non branded carb. Pics and we will get you in the ballpark..

 

[98mod]

Ok I'll send pic asap

 

[98mod]

Thanks I found the makuni hiding below cap under the cap retainer and some dirt build up.