swing arm
- Thread starter blaster09
- Start date
It definately helps with handling. I'd go with a +2-+4''. You can either buy an extended one or you could extend your stock one yourself if your handy with a metal saw and a welder
Remember you will need an extended brake cable when you do this. Mine is +4 and I can launch a lot harder and keep it planted, handles noticeably better. The blaster is only 43.3" wheelbase which is too short imo. It would make it more full size, most quads are 48-50". Really hard to tell you but +2 3 or 4. look at some pics to see what looks good.
+3
+3
I extended mine 4" myself, it wasn't bad at all. I would be willing to help anyone that wants to do it. I have a nice shop to work in and the right tools goes a long way.
I extended mine 4" myself, it wasn't bad at all. I would be willing to help anyone that wants to do it. I have a nice shop to work in and the right tools goes a long way.
That looks really clean nice job. Lol you even labeled it plus 4
jusst wondering.... is there smaller square tubing inside where the welds are or did u just butt it and weld end to end? if there are no gussets inside that isnt good, will be weak. i have taken a class and we built role cages ( tubing notchers, pipe bending , fitting) and this is something we learned. just wondering because i have been thinking about this mod
i think im going to do this mod. i need a stock swingarm though, i dont wana hack up the one im using and be out of business while im making it. anyone got one cheap, not cracked?
the easist way to extend a swingarm is to cut the ears at the back.. make sure the swingarm is blocked up level, slide thru a bandsaw right behind the beam so the ears come off as one unit, use 2" by 13/16 or 1/4 barstcock and weld itr in there then reenforce
Yes, there is something inside but not box. I welded flat stock to the inside the main part of the swing arm then slid the 4" extension on and tacked it. This also helped keep everything straight. When it came to finish welding I had the hub bolted up to it and then the skid plate to locate the front mounting tabs. In this picture it shows the flat stock across the top in place.
For my chain,I extended a chain with a piece of another chain and another master link.Just grind down the pins on the chain with an electric grinder or a file.Here's a pic of two stock swingarms I have for sale cheap if anyone is thinking about trying this:
They are dirty,but nothing wrong with either except the right one need bearings.
They are dirty,but nothing wrong with either except the right one need bearings.
it's not the best pik, but this shows the swingarm extended 2" at the ears, with the reenforcement. it also shows the shockmount relocation bracket I designed and made. Utilizing an 88 250 r shock provided 13" of rear travel. Bellow that is the front end of another bike I had, stock a-arms, geometry optimized, works tripple rates for a 250 r with relocated upper shock mounts, 9" of travel with zero bind
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Dude you gotta tell me more about the crazy travel you are getting with these things. PM me if you don't want to post it.
suspension is simple, it's all basic geometry, heck you can even do most of it without math. I will put a DIY thread in real quick, can't cover everything but it will give you enough to start thinking.
chris- did extending +4 behind the shock mount unfavorably change the shock characteristics and ride height? i would think it would make the seat sit somewhat higher, but then there would be more leverage on the shock making it feel softer and able to bottom out easier- although with more travel...
I haven't got to do much jumping with it since I just got it back together couple of weeks ago and I live in NE Ohio so I haven't bottomed out yet but I do have a 400ex shock coming as far as ride hight it did go up an inch or so. I have done a bit of slick woods riding and I can tell you the biggest benifit is it helps keep the front end on the ground in turn lets you turn. I have alot of wooded trails and front wheels+air+trees=ouch
Plus it looks kick a$$
