Sweet victory!!!

I hope you have luck with it.It sounds like timing to me but im not 100% on 2 strokes.Im good with 4 strokes(atv-car).I just don't want to start saying stuff that I am not sure off.If it where me.I would check the carb float first to make sure it's not sticking and overloading(trying to flood the motor).Then I would check the reeds.Then the fly wheel key.
 
OH.And check your coil wire.Some times when thy go bad spark will jump to ground on one firing stroke then to the plug on the next.That will give you a back fire.
 
I just cleaned the carb out. It's all good, float not sticking. The reeds are also good, not seated completely flat against the reed cage but maybe about the width of a razorblade between them and the cage, if that. I just put in a +2 key yesterday. I had to tap it in a little bit, very tight fit but it seemed to go back together ok. I'm wondering if the key might have gotten chewed up a little during install. Back out to the garage for more troubleshooting. Aarrgh. Never had this much trouble with a bike but I still love her. lol And all good info, guys. I appreciate the help.
 
That's true sr5. I have started a few threads, huh? I'm kinda sticking with this one now that I think I have it narrowd down to a carb issue. It's just that I've had a lot of different questions and started a thread each time. Kinda new to the forum and how everyone uses it. Thanks for the advice bro.

so do you understand what I'm talking about with the slide needing only a sliver of space between it and the bottom of the carb..?

also check the little holes in the back side of the carb ( this is where air goes through the pilot circuit to pick up fuel and should be cleaned and blown through with compressed air with you pilot jet removed.
 
It won't idle. I tinkered with it a little last night. Had it idling for a minute and it stalled. I just pulled the carb apart because the throttle air screw (under the seat) seemed like it wasn't adjusting. I found out the screw and the brass piece it goes into are both stripped. I'm thinking I might be able to bypass it and do my adjustments up on the handlebars. Just a thought?
 
are you talking about the screw my pencil is pointing at ??
blastcarb.jpg
 
So I fixed the stripped threads and put a new screw in it. Put my hand over the back of the carb and it fired on the second kick but it's spraying a lot of fuel oout the back of the carb. ??
 
thought he had the tors removed seeings how it says so by the sig

Some guys just bypass The T.O.R.S. and leave the system in.

I just ordered a Motion Pro T.O.R.S deletion kit for mine.

I removed the whole thing cut the wires out of the harness and rewrapped the harness. Just the right way IMO
 
I unhooked all the wired to the TORS. I wanna get the bike running good before I finalize all the wire chopping and making it look pretty. I hooked it back up for a few last night and had NO spark at all. No problems with it now. As for my carb, the fuel is dumping out the overflow and spraying out the back when it kicked over. Maybe the float is stuck.
 
I unhooked all the wired to the TORS. I wanna get the bike running good before I finalize all the wire chopping and making it look pretty. I hooked it back up for a few last night and had NO spark at all. No problems with it now. As for my carb, the fuel is dumping out the overflow and spraying out the back when it kicked over. Maybe the float is stuck.

Sounds like stuck float to me.
 
yup sounds like a stuck float if its sprayin fuel


and i was talking about the vitos, motion pro, or moose kits that get rid of the mechanism completely and then add an idle screw into the side of the carb