Suspension suggestions

^^Yup, I'm anxious to get ahold of a 400ex rear for my Blasty. Works front shocks are a good value and a nice improvement over stock. If you can afford them, Elka and Fox shocks are some of the best. As far as A-arms go, just get yourself a set of ASR arms from ebay. Good price and well-built.
 
Them ex shocks are pretty cheap Looks like i can get one for $50 shipped. I think I'm gonna order one today off eBay there's tons of them on their. Anythings better than stock , now if only I had the extra $1500 or so for the a-arms swinger and Aftermarket shocks

shop around bro i got one for 3.10$ with shipping it was 9$I:I
 
ASR +3+1 a arms.
Works front shocks.
400ex or trx250r rear shock.
+3 swingarm.
G-force adjustable axle.

You dont need long travel front a arms unless you can afford the a arms, plus properly valved shocks for the a arms. If you have std. a arms, and properly valved shocks, it will probably ride better than ext. a arms and lets say... yfz shocks. yeah, you may get more travel, but if your shocks arent valved correctly, which the yfz's wont be, you wont be getting the quality travel that you would with the properly valved shocks. You dont see many used works or elka's for ext. a arms for a blaster, so expect to pay a ton for new ones.

Works shocks are great for the money. i got dual rates w/o rezzies and they are valved for my arms and weight. and they ride flawlessly compared to stock.

I dont have a better rear shock yet, but its the next upgrade. i will either go the 250r or 400ex route, because i've heard great things about both. so i will probably get what i can find in better shape cheapest.

I wouldnt go any longer than +3 for a swingarm. more than that is pointless.

G-Force axle is adjustable, and it is a great axle for what you pay for it.

Dont forget the Hydro's.

I have this setup on my blaster, other than the rear shock, and i have about $600 in parts. I bought the swingarm new with all new bushings and everything. Axle was brand new. A arms were used, and the Works were used, and luckily, the guy i bought them off of was close to the same weight as me, and they were valved for him on these a arms.
 
it looks like im gonna have to save up some cash to do all i want to do but i think it will be worth it in the long run, it still cheaper than buying something new haha. got me a 400ex shock on order to start and i think i may just weld it up i work at a body shop and have access to pretty much any tool i may ever need. thanks for the video i cant get a better example of how to doit than that. what are your opinions on elka vs works fronts i can get the elkas for like $75 more than the works, are they worth it
 
it looks like im gonna have to save up some cash to do all i want to do but i think it will be worth it in the long run, it still cheaper than buying something new haha. got me a 400ex shock on order to start and i think i may just weld it up i work at a body shop and have access to pretty much any tool i may ever need. thanks for the video i cant get a better example of how to doit than that. what are your opinions on elka vs works fronts i can get the elkas for like $75 more than the works, are they worth it

cant speak for the works but stage 2 elkas ride like your on clouds, soaks up everything.

ASR +3+1 a arms.
Works front shocks.
400ex or trx250r rear shock.
+3 swingarm.
G-force adjustable axle.

You dont need long travel front a arms unless you can afford the a arms, plus properly valved shocks for the a arms. If you have std. a arms, and properly valved shocks, it will probably ride better than ext. a arms and lets say... yfz shocks. yeah, you may get more travel, but if your shocks arent valved correctly, which the yfz's wont be, you wont be getting the quality travel that you would with the properly valved shocks. You dont see many used works or elka's for ext. a arms for a blaster, so expect to pay a ton for new ones.Works shocks are great for the money. i got dual rates w/o rezzies and they are valved for my arms and weight. and they ride flawlessly compared to stock.

I dont have a better rear shock yet, but its the next upgrade. i will either go the 250r or 400ex route, because i've heard great things about both. so i will probably get what i can find in better shape cheapest.

I wouldnt go any longer than +3 for a swingarm. more than that is pointless.

G-Force axle is adjustable, and it is a great axle for what you pay for it.

Dont forget the Hydro's.

I have this setup on my blaster, other than the rear shock, and i have about $600 in parts. I bought the swingarm new with all new bushings and everything. Axle was brand new. A arms were used, and the Works were used, and luckily, the guy i bought them off of was close to the same weight as me, and they were valved for him on these a arms.

Most LT arms are the exact same price as standard travel arms, even the asr arms say takes a standard length shock unless noted.....well note it long travel, so price isnt an issue whether u get LT arms or ST. you are right that ST works, elkas etc. properly valved will ride better than the yfz shocks on LT arms only because a stock yfz is valved for a wide range of people. now u take those yfz and send them to GT thunder and have em PROPERLY valved AND sprung and they will ride so much better if not almost as good as the works etc. now u take a LT elka or works for your setup and it will outperform the ST shocks. you WONT get any more travel out of a LT shock than you will a ST shock, what you get is QUALITY travel. the LT shock will soak up jumps a little better and are easier to fine tune than the ST, you will also get less body roll with a longer shock. Id choose a properly setup LT over a properly setup ST shock anyday. if you buy a some cheap works or whatever that isnt properly setup than you are no better than running the yfz's on LT arms. whatever you do get spend the money and set them up right.
 
cant speak for the works but stage 2 elkas ride like your on clouds, soaks up everything.



Most LT arms are the exact same price as standard travel arms, even the asr arms say takes a standard length shock unless noted.....well note it long travel, so price isnt an issue whether u get LT arms or ST. you are right that ST works, elkas etc. properly valved will ride better than the yfz shocks on LT arms only because a stock yfz is valved for a wide range of people. now u take those yfz and send them to GT thunder and have em PROPERLY valved AND sprung and they will ride so much better if not almost as good as the works etc. now u take a LT elka or works for your setup and it will outperform the ST shocks. you WONT get any more travel out of a LT shock than you will a ST shock, what you get is QUALITY travel. the LT shock will soak up jumps a little better and are easier to fine tune than the ST, you will also get less body roll with a longer shock. Id choose a properly setup LT over a properly setup ST shock anyday. if you buy a some cheap works or whatever that isnt properly setup than you are no better than running the yfz's on LT arms. whatever you do get spend the money and set them up right.

i agree with what you were saying, and i would rather have the properly setup LT arms than what i have now. its just more expensive. When i was buying my setup, new asr ST arms were $375-$400. LT arms were at least $430. I couldnt find YFZ's for under $175 for a decent set. And idk about now, but 8 months ago, good luck finding used Elka's for LT arms, when you can find used AM shocks for ST arms for cheap all day long. i got lucky, and have about $300 in my ST arms, and Works valved for my weight.

it looks like im gonna have to save up some cash to do all i want to do but i think it will be worth it in the long run, it still cheaper than buying something new haha. got me a 400ex shock on order to start and i think i may just weld it up i work at a body shop and have access to pretty much any tool i may ever need. thanks for the video i cant get a better example of how to doit than that. what are your opinions on elka vs works fronts i can get the elkas for like $75 more than the works, are they worth it

they are probably worth it. I love my works, and for what i payed for them, wouldnt change them. they are so smooth. but I have heard nothing bad about elka's. i dont run them, but i am thinking that maybe they are a little better quality.