Stock pipes to FMF

Sonia_69

New Member
Jun 6, 2011
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Iowa
Ok so I finally got some time to put my FMF Gold series Fatty and powercore 2 exhaust on! Just want to double check on some stuff before I head down to the garage to do it, first I will not have to remove the gas tank right? I will be able to take off and put on the exhaust fine with it on? Also will I need the whole carb off to rejet? And I will need to replace the reed gasket cuz Im also putting in Vforce 2 reeds, or can I just use yamabond to seal it? And last Im going to be running airlid off with a UNI filter, what oil do I need to use to oil the filter before install?

Also running airlid off and riding in really dusty/muddy places wont hurt anything with my filter will it? Like dust wont get in there possibly will it? Sorry for all the questions, just cautious and want to do everything right

Thanks guys
 
tank on for pipe swap

carb on for main jet swap, loosen clamps and spin it, i'd start at a 280/290 and work down, lots of peeps end up with a 270 with filter and lid off, your results may vary

and be sure to use the proper filter oil on the filter, dusty conditions require more cleanings, sometimes every ride, just pop the seat and if it's dirty, clean it
 
Ok great! Is there a certain brand of proper filter oil I should use? And with the reeds should I use a gasket and yamabond to seal it?
 
i use permatex ultra copper for all my sealing needs, yamabond for the case halves only, filter oil will need to be for foam filters if stock/uni/twin air,
i believe last can i had was PJ1 brand, there are others, and don't be shy with it, soak that filter good, squeeze out the excess, and allow to dry overnight

and special K&N oil/cleaner kit for K&N/gauze style filters
 
Alright! Well the switch out will have to wait til I get the proper oil and sealant then on tuesday when I go to the shop!

Cleaning the air filter after every ride isnt a big deal either, I completely clean and wipe down both blasters after every ride now anyway :)

Thanks Awk for the help, your like a blaster guru lol :)
 
You don't NEED to have 'filter oil' for your air filter, you can use any oil you have laying around!! The filter oil is just extra sticky....so I guess it's a little better, but harder to work with. Back before they had filter oil I used to use regular 10W30 or whatever was laying around all the time!! You can pay more for stickier oil or the convenience of spray on if you want.

You'll probably have to remove the front fender support to get the pipe on/off, IIRC.

I don't run anything between the reed cage and the carb boot, it's made to seal itself. You can grab a seal that goes between the reed cage and the crankcase, real cheap. I've even re-used the old one before but you have to be careful doing this!! If you rip the seal coming out you could always just use a little bead of RTV, it doesn't matter what kind really, they all work, you can get it at AutoZone or whatever local cheap-o auto parts place you have.....or you could pay 3x the price for the same stuff that says "yamaha" on it, haha.



Are you really familiar with jetting 2strokes? If not, I would suggest doing just the pipe, getting the jetting right, and then doing the reeds....don't do both at the same time and then go try and jet it. It's just a suggestion, I know it will take more time but I think you'll have an easier time getting things dialed in if you take your time and do things one thing at a time. Also, specific to the jetting, it's generally not recommended to make more than one jetting change at once (ie, change the main and go ride it and see how it feels, don't change the main and the needle position) and I would advocate doing more than once thing at a time either, however, it's pretty well known that you're going to have to go up a few sizes with your main jet and also you'll need to move the needle up at least one position. If you're somewhat comfortable you could do these things all at once......if you atleast kinda know what you're doing. If this is all new to you, do one thing at a time.