step by step rebuild help

[pranash07]

hey guys,
I need some help,
got a Yamaha Blaster that i look forward to rebuilding.
My main plans are to change the color of the frame to silver.
Just brain-storming,
1.remove all plastics
2.remove fuel tank,
3.remove Engine/carb/Air Box intake
4.remove Exhausts
5.remove wiring
6.all minor and side components

Is there anything that i would need to replace like bushings/seal & rubbers during the build?Please keep in mind even though its a 1998 Blaster it was barely used,probably has about 20 hours of riding.

Look forward to the helpful replies

 

[sicivicdude]

You will have to remove basically everything to effectively paint the frame without overspraying anything.

The BEST option is not paint but powdercoat. The second best option is a paint with a hardener (auto paint). The third best option is a single stage epoxy auto paint. The least durable is standard "spray bomb" spray paint. It doesn't take much abuse to beat the paint back off especially on the underside of the frame. If you go the spray paint route, keep a can around for minor touch ups during reassembly.

Download the factory service manual from the general support section of the forum and go through it front to back. It'll cover checking all of the bearings and seals. Basically, you need to replace only what's already worn out (which, with 20 hours shouldn't be much) because all of the components come on and off relatively easily without damage.

 

[pranash07]

thanks Sicivicdude
I plan to powder coat,I dont think spray-painting would be a good idea,after a few bumps and jumps the paint will scrap off.
what about arm bushings ? anything major there when it comes to main replacement components?

 

[sicivicdude]

There are several companies that offer rebuild/replacement kits (All Balls Racing comes to mind) for the a-arm bushings, swingarm bearings, carrier bearings, tie rod ends, etc etc...

Considering it has low hours, you'll need to yank and tug on each component to determine it's current state and whether it needs replacement. If it really only has 20 hours, I doubt you'll be in need of a lot of replacement parts....

 

[Herpderplol]

My brother did rattle can frame, but it was header paint, ceramic 2000 degree durable, he rode for an hour, never lost a scratch

 

[sicivicdude]

My brother did rattle can frame, but it was header paint, ceramic 2000 degree durable, he rode for an hour, never lost a scratch

How did he bake it?

That spray comes out a fine powder mist and needs to be cured after so many hours of drying or it will wipe right off.

 

[Herpderplol]

It's just a regular rattle can, but ceramic paint made for headers, no baking just a week of no scratching 0_0 he didnt like sitting through that much

 

[sicivicdude]

It's just a regular rattle can, but ceramic paint made for headers, no baking just a week of no scratching 0_0 he didnt like sitting through that much

Read the instructions on that can closely...

Every "header paint" I've ever seen requires a drying period and baking period for full cure. If that paint doesn't, I'd like to know what type of paint it is so I could get some.

 

[Herpderplol]

the brand is VHT flame proof, it doesn't NEED to be cured, but the can says to so chemicals can not remove the paint, other wise the paint is hard


I used 500 degree ceramic paint on my wheeler's plastics, that brand is Dupli-color, ceramic no baking needed at all

 

[sicivicdude]

the brand is VHT flame proof, it doesn't NEED to be cured, but the can says to so chemicals can not remove the paint, other wise the paint is hard


I used 500 degree ceramic paint on my wheeler's plastics, that brand is Dupli-color, ceramic no baking needed at all

VHT FlameProof Coating

You mean THAT paint that says plainly in the instructions that it needs 3 high temp (650°F at its highest if done off the vehicle) curing events of specific time intervals and durations?

The 500°F engine paint I have used with success. That paint does not need a high temp curing period and actually is slightly tougher than standard spray paint but the color choices are limited. I have used the "aluminum" engine enamel before and it works well but is still susceptible to scratches and general beat down from riding through tall grass, rocks, and mud.

 

[pranash07]

i think im going to stick with stick with the old style powder coating,i want a nice clean finish.so i prefer to send it to the proffesionals.but thanks for the idea.maybe i will paint my motor head & cylinder with the "SHAKE A CAN" call it what we must