stator/info

Awk08

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Jan 30, 2009
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my sons bike, no spark????
cdi works, tested it in my bike,
coil works, used it in slicks bike over the weekend
tried and tested the current stator, and one ken oconnor brought with him, both ohm out to specs???
but neither shows voltage on the white/red wire with a test light when kicked???? possibly both bad????
had the kill switch disconnected during all of this, also eliminated the tether kill sw. which was hooked to the stock keyswitch wires
willing to try a known working stator, lemme know what ya got and price, pm me

troubleshooting suggestions also welcome
 
Hey bro, did ya connect the two ignition wires (keyswitch) together before ya tested? just a thought.

BTW- my coil is good! I think that Loose quick connection you found was the main problem with spark, But gonna get a spare coil just in case!- Bob
 
Just shipped my spare to ken yesterday. Good luck with hunting the problem down.

Btw, you still interested in the intake?
 
Awk, on the stator theres a ground wire that screws to the actual metal of the stator. Ive tested a few stock stators now trying to troubleshoot mine, and every one of them Ive seen has been broken and needing to be resoldered.

One thing though, is in my case, I didnt ohm out to spec, and of course I got nothing. Stator feeds the voltage regulator though. Have you tried perhaps switching voltage regulators with your bike (its as easy to swap as the CDI) to see if that isnt it. If the voltage reg was bad or had a short/open, it might screw up a reading.

Id check those 2 things. The black wire on the stator housing make sure its connected to the ground point, and check your voltage reg.

Ive found when youre dealing with inductive coils and electricity, ohm specs dont mean a lot. I have 2 coils and neither ohm out properly and both of them work great. I had 2 stators, neither of them ohmed out properly and only one of them worked.
 
good info guys, gonna check the ground on the plate, but it's reading the ohms thru it when i checked them,
also, i was under the assumption that the voltage regulator was only used for the lighting coil, not ignition coil ???, set me straight if i'm wrong!!
and yes its a stock carb, with tors removal kit and all tors related sh*t cut
 
just a thought on the tors. but a voltage regulator is a super easy thing to swap from one bike to another. alos when everything is hooked up the voltage regualtor is connected to everything else via ground and i believe its also sharing a positive feed with something else. could be grounding itself out and grounding everything out. swap it with one form another bike and check it out
 
good info guys, gonna check the ground on the plate, but it's reading the ohms thru it when i checked them,
also, i was under the assumption that the voltage regulator was only used for the lighting coil, not ignition coil ???, set me straight if i'm wrong!!
and yes its a stock carb, with tors removal kit and all tors related sh*t cut

i though the same thing, just for lights
 
it is just for the lights, but it shares common ground with everything. the ground in the stock wiring connects to the stator plate, the mounting hole of the regulator nd the mounting hole for the coil. it just spiderwebs throughout the hole wiring system. big pita if you ask me.
 
I guess the voltage reg doesnt do anything in this regard. Hell, it appears you could simply unplug it and youd be ok.

Awk, do you get any voltage on the black/red wire at the stator? Just curious.

The way I understand it is this. Stator feeds CDI unit 2 feeds. One is voltage, one is timing location. Stator feeds headlight circuit as well, but thats not integral.

CDI unit grounds and completes circuit through the keyswitch, the off/run switch, and the TORS. All 3 circuits must function or the whole of the circuit is broken and open and the ground doesnt happen. Off/On grounds to the Run/Off switch which grounds to the TORS control unit which is dependant on the carb module, and the handbrake module.

Have you tested your keyswitch and off/run switch per the manual? Have you disabled/tested TORS yet?
 
i think tarmo (kens machinist) did some checking of the on/off switch
i'm just taking all this in for now, too damn hoy here, but gonna try a few things tonite, btw, the grounds are good, clean
 
Whoa, guys! The keyswitch is just another killswitch. It grounds out the ignition in the off position. Hell, when my son lost the key to his, I just unplugged the switch. DON'T bypass/short across it or your Blaster won't run. Unplug it if you want to be sure it isn't the prob.