Asking the real questions now lol. Surprising there hasn't been a blaster specific write up for this mod by now and hopefully others can benefit from our learning. If you're working with stock blaster wiring yourself, kindly let me know if any of the following isn't correct as I'm going off of memory.
With the red & black from the new R/R running directly to your battery, you will also have another + & - going from the battery back to your lighting & grounding circuits (the TT battery worked great in my case bc it fit perfectly in the battery tray partition and it came wired with a double female bullet connector for both +/- sides).
First, I hooked my wire from the - side of the battery to the nearest negative wire cluster in the harness.
The real meat of this mod lies in how the + from the battery gets wired up....but to get there, we must first lay out how the task of floating the ground gets carried out specifically on blaster wiring. As flippantly mentioned in mine and everyone else's posts, you just float the ground duuuuuuude. With that, you do the following:
1. Remove the lighting circuit ground from the stator plate. Solder a wire to this lighting coil terminal you just unattached and run it up through the harness to one of the yellow wires on the R/R. To get this wire through the OEM rubber case cover plug, I used a dental awl with a rasp handle to create a hole....worked perfect. You want to barely be able to get the wire through so the seal stays very tight and doesn't let contaminants in.
2. The other side of the lighting coil has a yellow wire with an orange tracer I believe. This leads up to the wire cluster for the switches on your bars. Cut this yellow/orange wire a couple inches before it gets to the cluster and attach directly to the other yellow on the R/R. You should now have 2 wires coming directly from the stator and connected to both yellows on the new R/R.
The couple inches of yellow/orange tail that was left is what I connected to the + side of my LED lightbar.
For the positive side of the battery, I connected to the green wire coming out of the bar switches. Yellow is low-beam & green is hi-beam. I don't have the stock light anymore and chose green so the hi-beam position activates my light. Activating the lighting circuit this way also activates the tail light.
A final note, I upgraded my lighting coil since I was in there and may be adding future LED pods and wip light. Which is to say, if you're gonna stick with the OEM lighting coil you'll need to ensure your total current draw will not exceed your charging ability.
