Starting help

PSM

New Member
Oct 23, 2013
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Hello guys i'm new to the site and blasters but been into bikes for years. I've done lots of searching on this site and the web and still can't figure this thing out. I'm not sure of the year because the vin is no where to be found but don't think it's that big of a deal as far as fixing it. I have spark (i think weak tho), fuel, and air but still doesn't start. I've checked the plug, plug cap, coil, and stator and all are within spec. How many volts should be going to the coil? I assumed around 12 but I can't get a clear reading since it moves all over the place when kicking. It appears that the highest reading is around 7 volts. If the stator is within spec with a ohm meter can it still not produce enough volts? Could the cdi cause this problem? The manual says if everything in the ignition system is within spec then the cdi is bad. I still have to do a compression tests which ill do tomorrow since i discovered mine is broken. I know there's a few things like compression that could keep it from starting but I really have the feeling its the spark because it seams weak. When i attach its plug to my good running moped it has a huge blue spark but when hooked to the blaster its much smaller. I don't know if it's just different since there different bikes but i assume most bikes would have the same size spark. I did discover one of the 4 reeds was completely broken off but it should still run but just not very well right? Reeds move so damn fast at good rpms that they never really close anyway no? And yes the tors system is unplugged but that would cause no spark not a weak one. Sorry for the long post I just wanted to try and give as much info as possible to aid in any help you guys can give. Thank you very much in advance for your time and help in this matter.
 
So i just got the new reeds in and no dice. It doesn't sound like it's any closer to starting as it was before. I really thing its the spark, ive run all the tests over and over so I guess ill try replacing the cdi I just hate throwing parts at it and hoping it works but not sure what else to do at this point. Any other ideas? Thanks
 
Oh I forgot to add, when im trying to start it if I have the throttle open it makes at much lower sound like a deeper gurgle then it does if I kick it with no throttle. Not sure if that means anything
 
Firstly you should have no throttle when trying to start it, it over rides the cold start circuit.

The reason that it sounds deeper is that you are allowing it to pull in more air.
 
Gotcha, im just trying different combinations of stuff to try and get it to start. I mostly work on street bikes where if the choke isn't on hitting the throttle is fine.
 
A poor ground on the coil can make for a weak spark.

Remove the spark plug cap from the HT lead and cut off about an inch, replace the cap.
 
Thanks that work out well. I cleaned off the coil mounting/ground points with a wired brush till practically shiny and shortened the plug wire by almost 2"s since it was extra long to begin with since it was a new coil. After that it fired right up. Ended up being several things wrong with it which I wasn't expecting at all so got frustrated and looked past a cpl checks. Thanks Blaaster for your help, a second "pair of eyes" was just what i needed.
 
My luck sucks! lol Ran great for few hours then suddenly starting bogging under throttle until it just quit running all together.
 
No I have not. Since the problem was fixed I didn't see the point but now this new problem has happened I guess ill have too. Compression and leak testing are not exactly the same right?
 
Haven't leak tested yet cause i got to get the parts so checking over other things for now. It seems like theres too much compression now. If the spark plug is out the piston moves freely up and down but soon as i put the plug back in the piston moves but doesn't keep moving after kicked. Like normal when you kick it the piston moves a few times up and down per kick but its not doing that when the plug is in. The carb if off and so is the header but still only taking the plug out lets the piston move the way it should. Its not that with the plug in its hard to move, its not really harder then normal at all its just that it doesn't move any extra up and down like it normally would. Strange
 
Kicking with the pipe and carb off will give the motor a gut full of air to compress and will not allow the motor to continue turning.

Have a geek up the exhaust port for piston/ring damage, seems to me that you fried it.



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I noticed the issue while the carb and pipe were still on I only took them off to check the condition of the piston and rings which look fine and see if the pipe was clogged because i thought maybe that was causing the pressure issue. Air flows freely from header all the way out of the back so its not that. Its so weird that taking the plug out frees it up so much. Trying to restart it after dieing is when I noticed that it wasn't doing the normally gurgling/fluttering sound when kicking it over and instead was just making a sound during the actual kicking stroke. Its not sucking in gas which is why its not running and pretty fair assumption that what ever is causing the pressure issue is the source of the gas issue as well.
 
After how many hours are these supposed to have the engine thoroughly gone thru? It hasn't run great since purchased 3 weeks ago and obviously is just getting worse. Never no what your getting off craigslist but it seemed worth the money