sputtering and bogging!

Well I changed both seals, stator and crank side. started the bike just fine, hard to keep at idle road it and same thing, bogs down once you open the throttle. Bought a new OEM stator and wire harness. Installed the new stator and wire harness, now bike wont start at all. Are there any other wires I need to mess with on the harness besides the thores wires which I already linked the 2 wires together?
 
Cleaned all the connections and made sure they where all tight. 3rd kick she started. Road fi e and switched through gears fine. Problem now is ideling. Stays at idle but real low and then will die after a coupme of minutes. I adjusted the air adjustment on the carb but nothing.
 
It is improvement. I havent been able to actually ride and open it up in a long time. Rode a couple short trails and had sone smiles again. I adjusted the air screw on the carb and it didnt seem to do anything. What do you mean by idle adjustment?
 
Idle speed adjustment.

The air screw has no say in the mix above 1/4 throttle.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
I'll try it again and see what it does. I did the 1.5 turn out and adjusted from their. I let it sit for 10 to 15 sec in between turns but nothing either way I turned it. I even had it a t one time almost all the way out. The bike once warmed up, lowers in rev and just puts while sitting their and then eventually after about a minute or two it will die.
 
reading back thru this i see............

03 Blaster
Bored 40 over
34mm carb- filter on a pipe straight off the Carb
170 jet size
boysen reeds with throttle body spacer
LRD pipe and silencer
Twist throttle

and it started running crappy after you changed crank seals.



that leads me to believe it was jetted for and while it had an airleak.
that 170 main is waaaaay to large for a stock cylinder bike, and i'm betting the pilot is also, thats why airscrew adjustments have no effect.

what pilot is in it ?
for those mods, it should be in the low/mid 40's
your airscrew will tell you

just for reference, here's my jetting for 34mm carb on a highly modified cylinder/mods
48 pilot
airscrew gives highest idle around 1.5 turns out
DGH needle (a dgh or cel needle is a must on these carbs)
155 main


your best bet is to go back to a stock 26mm mikuni carb for your mods.
 
sorry im gonna steal ur thread for a sec and ask Awk a question while we r on the subject...Awk I am switching to a 34 pj and was wondering if the DGH needle is too lean for me since I am at sea level should I switch to CEL? or just richen the DGH? building motor now not tuning yet thanks in advance
 
MURPH said:
sorry im gonna steal ur thread for a sec and ask Awk a question while we r on the subject...Awk I am switching to a 34 pj and was wondering if the DGH needle is too lean for me since I am at sea level should I switch to CEL? or just richen the DGH? building motor now not tuning yet thanks in advance
Click to expand...

yep, get the CEL for that elevation
 
Awk0I said:
reading back thru this i see............

03 Blaster
Bored 40 over
34mm carb- filter on a pipe straight off the Carb
170 jet size
boysen reeds with throttle body spacer
LRD pipe and silencer
Twist throttle

and it started running crappy after you changed crank seals.



that leads me to believe it was jetted for and while it had an airleak.
that 170 main is waaaaay to large for a stock cylinder bike, and i'm betting the pilot is also, thats why airscrew adjustments have no effect.

what pilot is in it ?
for those mods, it should be in the low/mid 40's
your airscrew will tell you

just for reference, here's my jetting for 34mm carb on a highly modified cylinder/mods
48 pilot
airscrew gives highest idle around 1.5 turns out
DGH needle (a dgh or cel needle is a must on these carbs)
155 main


your best bet is to go back to a stock 26mm mikuni carb for your mods.
Click to expand...
Originally it stopped working because it wasnt recieving spark. I changed the seals because I would smell fuel in the crank. The bik still can like crap and bogged down so I switched and went back to OEM stator. The stator I bought was crap. Now the bike has plenty of spark and runs fine. The bike used to run fine at idle as well as through all gears. Not sure why it used to run fine and now not. So you suggest moving down the jet main size? Pilot is 45 by the way.
 
Sorry for the questions still new to this. I see you are talking about a DGH needle. Is this the needle that goes down through the top of the carb? I bought the bike for cheap from some guy who has a bunch of blasters that he built and raced. I have been replacing stuff since so trying to get it all figured out. Thanks in advance.
 
blooper said:
Not sure why it used to run fine and now not. So you suggest moving down the jet main size? Pilot is 45 by the way.
Click to expand...

i used to run a 45, with mild trail porting, right bend pipe, cfm airbox. then after this last round of more aggressive porting, i had to bump up to a 48 pilot.
thats all telling me your 45 pilot is too large for your mods
i'd try a 42 then 40 pilot, it has to respond to airscrew adjustments or it's not the correct size.

see here...
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/

that main jet is also way too large for your mods, that 170 sounds like the stock main jet for whatever bike that carb came off of, which are always jetted way too rich for our blasters.
i'd buy and try 150, 148 and 145 mains if you insist on sticking with that carb.
start large and plug chop down

what needle is in it ?
 
blooper said:
Sorry for the questions still new to this. I see you are talking about a DGH needle. Is this the needle that goes down through the top of the carb? I bought the bike for cheap from some guy who has a bunch of blasters that he built and raced. I have been replacing stuff since so trying to get it all figured out. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

no apologies for the questions, it's what we, and you are on here for !

yes, the needle protruding down out of the slide, it's replaceable with different lengths and tapers, and also adjustable with a clip in 5 grooves, it controls 1/4 - 3/4 throttle jetting.
it's proven the DGH and CEL needles are a must in these 34/35 keihin carbs.

again.....for your mods, a stock 26mm mikuni carb will perform the best.
 
I'm going to go by the yamaha dealership and see if they have a jet kit tomorrow, if not i'll just order one off line, any particular ones i should get? I have read some brands are actually different sizes then what they say.
 
blooper said:
I'm going to go by the yamaha dealership and see if they have a jet kit tomorrow, if not i'll just order one off line, any particular ones i should get? I have read some brands are actually different sizes then what they say.
Click to expand...


just "say no" to commercially sold "jet kits" they rarely contain the jets you need.
ask your dealer if you can buy multiple jets and return the ones you don't use (my dealer here does that for me)

from my above posts, i'd get
40 and 42 pilots
145, 148 and 150 mains
 
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