spark plug color

roadkill

Member
Apr 7, 2010
1,072
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43
winchendon mass
after riding around for a while i took a look at my plug and i dont think its lean but the color is matte black and almost kind of sooty looking but no buildup of carbon its just a solid blackish color and it runs great
 
you need to do proper plug chops for the plug to tell you anything, you may be lean at wot, but letting it idle, or riding it 1/2 throttle may be coloring the plug, giving you a false reading, for example........once the pilot circut colors it black and rich, you'll never know what the other 2 circuts are reading

tell us what carb and jetting are you running
 
thats what mine looked like during break-in and then it started flaking off. I wasnt sure what was goin on. So i did some plug chops and alls i can figure is rich.
 
that means your super rich, prob because your masking an airleak with fat jets, contact slikerthanyou he copied my idea of selling them on here, dont know what his look like but from all that huge oversized text in his sig that reads "professionally made" they sound pretty snazzy, or you can go to homedepot and make one for 12 bucks...
 
i dont think theres a leak but i have a oko 28mm with a 140 main with a 42 pilot with the mods in my sig plus some boyeson power reeds that i put in today
 
that means your super rich, prob because your masking an airleak with fat jets, contact slikerthanyou he copied my idea of selling them on here, dont know what his look like but from all that huge oversized text in his sig that reads "professionally made" they sound pretty snazzy, or you can go to homedepot and make one for 12 bucks...

I do sell them, and only started to because you decided not to anymore for whatever reasons. I don't know how you made yours but have heard of some that needed fixed before used. I don't see anyway to make a decent one for $12.

i dont think theres a leak but i have a oko 28mm with a 140 main with a 42 pilot with the mods in my sig plus some boyeson power reeds that i put in today

They are made from schedule '80 parts and silicone tubing most expensive part is the gauge. Even Harbor freight was $7 (0-160) and I couldn't find a 0-15 psi one cheap. I then was able to locate 7 of them on ebay, Yes you can use 0-60 or heck 0-100, 0-160 one but, much more accurate and easier to see a 1-2PSI drop with a 0-15 gauge. I also Test them before I ship them. $30 shipped USA. I make $8 dollars on this after shipping, not something to get rich on that's for sure, but helps those out that either don't want the hassle of finding the parts, or don't have the time to do it. I also make them for stock or larger carbs as my Pics show- VVVV

Stock to 30MM left- Larger carb32mm-38mm right-
leak-tester-(3).jpg


leak-tester-(2).jpg
 
that means your super rich, prob because your masking an airleak with fat jets, contact slikerthanyou he copied my idea of selling them on here, dont know what his look like but from all that huge oversized text in his sig that reads "professionally made" they sound pretty snazzy, or you can go to homedepot and make one for 12 bucks...

i dont think im that rich because it runs great and people say that usually people run richer jets than me, so if anything id be lean even though the plug is black, would it make a difference if i ran a diferent heat range? right now ive been using a br9es
 
i see you have +4 timing ? did you try backing the timing off alittle and see what your getting. +4 is LOT of timing for a stock bike
 
your plug was colored like that after 6 hours of riding, or 1 wide open plug chop ???
you cant tell sh*t after 6 hours, as all 3 jetting ranges are adding color to the plug, it has to be 1 wide open 6th gear run, kill it while still wot, pull the plug and read it

you can aslo do plug chops for idle - 1/4 and 1/4 - 3/4 throttle 6th gear runs
 
your plug was colored like that after 6 hours of riding, or 1 wide open plug chop ???
you cant tell sh*t after 6 hours, as all 3 jetting ranges are adding color to the plug, it has to be 1 wide open 6th gear run, kill it while still wot, pull the plug and read it

you can aslo do plug chops for idle - 1/4 and 1/4 - 3/4 throttle 6th gear runs

this plug was after a wot plug chop then i changed it and did a needle jet plug chop and it was a darker brown and i did a plug chop from when it was idling during the first step of the break in where you idle it for two periods of 15 minutes with a 30 minute cool down and that plug was a very dark brown almost black, so at the end of my 6 hour ride it was a dark brown with the tip being black.
 
Plug chops are difficult to do past 1/2 throttle. Reason being is you will see the "fuel ring" at the BOTTOM of the plug at WOT and requires you to chop the plug(in my opinion). It will look like this(this is a rich....for me at least).
101_7108.jpg


This is a 1/2 throttle plug chop. Notice how the "fuel ring" doesn't go as far and is about halfway up the porcelain(because it was a 1/2 throttle chop). For me, I still do a chop to see the plug. This is tough to see and you typically need to run it a little longer stretch for a 1/2 throttle chop. This is rich though.
101_7107.jpg


If you do a 1/4 throttle or idle chop it will be wetter and farther up the porcelain insulator and closer to the center electrode. The reason you don't see the "fuel ring" farther up the insulator on WOT plug chop runs and it's only visible at the bottom is because the engine is generating a lot of heat and burns off all the residue on the porcelain insulator besides down at the very bottom. At 1/2 throttle chops, it doesn't penetrate deep enough into the plug insulator when it burns to give a reading at the very bottom or very top of the insulator and so on an so on.
 
Plug chops are difficult to do past 1/2 throttle. Reason being is you will see the "fuel ring" at the BOTTOM of the plug at WOT and requires you to chop the plug(in my opinion). It will look like this(this is a rich....for me at least).
101_7108.jpg


This is a 1/2 throttle plug chop. Notice how the "fuel ring" doesn't go as far and is about halfway up the porcelain(because it was a 1/2 throttle chop). For me, I still do a chop to see the plug. This is tough to see and you typically need to run it a little longer stretch for a 1/2 throttle chop. This is rich though.
101_7107.jpg


If you do a 1/4 throttle or idle chop it will be wetter and farther up the porcelain insulator and closer to the center electrode. The reason you don't see the "fuel ring" farther up the insulator on WOT plug chop runs and it's only visible at the bottom is because the engine is generating a lot of heat and burns off all the residue on the porcelain insulator besides down at the very bottom. At 1/2 throttle chops, it doesn't penetrate deep enough into the plug insulator when it burns to give a reading at the very bottom or very top of the insulator and so on an so on.

Thanks for the great pics. I need to do some chops when it gets a little warmer out.
 
i just did my chops today and its barely brown. still looks new. that means im.... too rich? lower my jet sizes? other then the chop its runs great tho i thought it felt a tad rich but from what im hearing these 28mm pwks should run towards the lean side. idk
 
today i decided to put in a 145 main over a 140 to see how it works and it ran a little better and i did a good plug chop and it has the same color but runs better its still black tho