Someone please help!

R

ruairiyblaster

Member
Oct 20, 2011
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Right considering getting ken Oconnor to do me a fully loaded standard bore cylinder and a head for 98 octane. Thing is I've already got a tuned topend and have the spec of it here if anyone could tell me do they think it will work the same as one of kens ?
Here's the spec don't really understand it I will use • as a degrees symbol

Deck cylinder 0.0095"
2 base gaskets
Transfer ports: 44.80mm ATAC = 118.0• ATDC=124.0• duration
Boost port: opens 45.20mmATDC=119.0• ATDC= 122.0• duration
Exhaust port: opens 30mm ATDC=85.5• ATDC = 189• duration

Cylinder head: 0.0045"
Squish Clearance: 0.0035"
Squish angle: 15•\18•
Squish area : (50%-15•)
Volume: 16.3cc to top of plus hole
14.7cc wider plus

Compression ratio: 14.26-1
Trapped compression ratio: 7.98-1


Got all these details on a sheet when I bought the quad it is quick but does any understand any of this or think I would benefit from a ken Oconnor cylinder?
Thanks
 

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Are you satisfied with what you have? Or do you want more? Powerband in wrong area?
189* on ex definately not radical.

Were you just going to get different head and jug to get reworked?
Intake looks fair, transfers look great.

Consider getting ahold of him and asking him what he could do with what you have.
 
Was considering giving ken a standard jus and head to do himself from scratch don't want it to be a waste of money. Only pic I have of head is where u can c it through the cylinder

Cylinder is oily inside because I started to jet and then remembered to check for leaks and found one
 
As best I can tell, it looks like you have a pretty good "package".
The head looks good as best I can tell, the porting looks conservative, but well done.

The cylinder was probably decked 0.0095" to clean up the surface and pick up compression.
The 2 base gaskets is to raise the ports and rpm range, and consequently the power.
The "Cylinder head: 0.0045" " measurement is a bit strange, Decked? Doesn't seem enough.
I have to assume "Squish Clearance: 0.0035" " is a typo, should be 0.035".
Volume: 16.3cc to top of plus(sic, PLUG?) hole is a bit small and doesn't match other measurements, but who knows?
I have no idea what "14.7cc wider plus" means.

All in all, this seems like an engine build by someone who has an idea of what he is doing unless it really is 0.0035" squish.
I would put it together, check the squish, leaktest it, and check that the compression is in the 100-180psi range, then run it!

See what it does. Until you get better pictures and measurements my guess is this can be make to rock.

Steve
 
Last edited:
That 0.0035 isn't actually a typo that's what it says on the sheet unless he is mistaken. So u think I should polish the exhaust ports a bit bore it and run it?
Would I even benefit from a Ken Oconnor head mod?
 
ruairiyblaster said:
That 0.0035 isn't actually a typo that's what it says on the sheet unless he is mistaken. So u think I should polish the exhaust ports a bit bore it and run it?
Would I even benefit from a Ken Oconnor head mod?
Click to expand...

2i92jjr.jpg


0.0035" would be far too close for squish, should be 0.030" to 0,050" ideally.
This head (your picture above) is modified but it is hard to tell exactly how.
It does not look as good as Ken's head to my eye fron this angle, but really hard to tell from this angle.

I am thinking the same questions as Larry's Shee:
Larry's Shee said:
Are you satisfied with what you have? Or do you want more? Powerband in wrong area?<SOME SNIPPED>
Click to expand...

Without good pictures and measurements it is hard to give exact advice.
This cylinder and head have been "tuned" to work together by someone.
Ken's head is designed to work on a stock height cylinder, piston and crank.
Just bolting on Ken's head on someone else's combination without understanding the concepts and doing the measurements and work is a gamble with a slim likelyhood for success.

My advice was:
best said:
I would put it together,
check the squish,
leaktest it, and
check that the compression is in the 100-180psi range,
then run it!
Click to expand...

And I still stand by those words.
If it needs a bore, or a piston or maybe just rings, do the minimum you have to, but go ahead and do it.
If you want to polish the exhaust, go ahead, but realize, you can mess things up if you make a mistake.
A slip with a powetool, too much metal off in the wrong place, filings or burrs or grindings hidden away = big problem.

Put the engine together as you have it. Don't add any problems.
Measure the squish and correct it if you have to (0.030"minimum),
Seal it up and leak test it (less then $20 to build one)
check the compression (100 is low, 180 is high)
Start it up, heat cycle it, retorque and then check and correct the jetting (plug chop).
Run it and run it hard! If you have problems (I doubt it), post and we'll help solve.

Steve
 
Thanks Steve I wouldn't actually be removing material really just using a polishing tool to shine it up a little. Ill rebuild it and run it then see what happens probaly get a stroker from ken too.How do I determine squish? Heard something about solder I think? Then how would I set it?
Thanks again
 
I put it back together and run it (regular seating /heat cycles) and then taking it's measure as to how it does. Before you have the mad scientist ken look through it and saying there's not to much he can do with it.
 
Cylinder is away getting bored atm and I cleaned the exhaust port up. Pics are before any of this was done awk is going to post them up for me . Thanks
 
lets try this again, 1/2 failed on my first attempt ??

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ruairiyblaster said:
Cylinder is away getting bored atm and I cleaned the exhaust port up. Pics are before any of this was done awk is going to post them up for me . Thanks
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think you are going to be happy with that.
You mentioned a "rebuild" and a stroker? If your crank and bottom end are OK, why?

Sometimes people feel "they have to". They have to out-do the crowd. You don't.
You will have fewer headaches if you just fix the things that are wrong.
Putting anything together ABSOLUTELY stock will give the greatest assurance of getting it right.
One of the the principles of industrial reliability is to put everything to "stock" (conforming to specs) state before attempting modifications.

Don't introduce more problems by "fixing" things you don't have to, especially if you are new to this.
I don't gather from your posts if the bottom end is OK or not, or if you know.
Check the crank for up and down play at TDC (Top Dead Center). If it is OK, leave it for now.
Throwing in a stroker when you don't understand squish will just explode your mind with problems. Don't do it.
Do you know the KISS principle?

Hey, I see your pictures, everything looks pretty good. I'll give you some of my thoughts:
Head studs look long, extra threads exposed, just use washers under the nuts. Better that way anyway.
Headgasket sealed well. Make sure you do not over torque the nuts on assembly.
Porting looks good. Conservative, but less chance of doing damage that way. I wouldn't touch it.
I see a chamfer on the intake but not the exhaust or transfers. A very small chamfer of the sharp edges is good.
Head: I am not crazy about the shape and the dual squish angles. Plus the burn pattern looks like excessive squish.
You will need to check the squish measurement on assembly and correct.
If it is 0.75mm-1.5mm (0.030"-0.060") run it but if it is outside these measurements it should be corrected.
You can correct it at home. I'll tell you how if you need to.

With a good fitting piston, new rings, proper squish and compression, no leaks and proper jets, you should be ripping!

Steve
 
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