Shocks and blown motor

JoshHockey95

Member
Oct 22, 2010
299
1
50
Western PA
Have stock front shocks from a 2000 for sale and also have a blown motor from the same bike for sale.

Shocks $15 plus shipping
IMG00023-20101125-1704.jpg

IMG00022-20101125-1704.jpg

IMG00021-20101125-1703.jpg


Blown Motor $175 obo
IMG00015-20101111-1717-1.jpg


Motor needs:
Bore
Piston and Rings
Head Resurfaced
Crank Bearings
Connecting Rod?
Connecting Rod Bearings
To my knowledge this is what it needs I emailed Ken OConner and told him what it did and he said he thinks the crank bearing came apart and thats why it seized. You can spin the crank most of the way around then it stops and wont go any farther and you spin it the other direction and it stops in the same place.
 
Last edited:
$175 obo on the motor. The stock rear shock is also avalible now for $15 plus shipping.
It is yellow and has some missing paint on the top of the spring, won't be able to get pics for a while because blaster doesn't stay at my house.
 
bump for the motor? noone could use a parts motor? i think we measured the bore at like 67.2? josh can correct me if he remembers different prob only needs a .010 bore its not really bad and you could prob get away reusing the head if you had to but its pitted pretty bad. it has brand new center hub, clutch, clutch bolts, and springs in it too
 
bump for the motor? noone could use a parts motor? i think we measured the bore at like 67.2? josh can correct me if he remembers different prob only needs a .010 bore its not really bad and you could prob get away reusing the head if you had to but its pitted pretty bad. it has brand new center hub, clutch, clutch bolts, and springs in it too

someone is likely gunna want an exact measurent with a caliper, cause when its reading 67 ish, it is getting close to the end. just a though
 
okay i looked at the piston sizes they sell and it was def a little bit above 67mm so i'm almost positive it is just a worn 67mm so you will need to bore it out to .060 over to get a 67.5. i don't think there is enough damage that you would need to go to .080
 
i guess i'll just keep answering lol.
there is one welded spot on the cases right where the shifter comes out. and here is the most that we know for what it needs.

From: kenoconnor07@aol.com
Date: November 22, 2010 6:04:06 AM EST
To: ******@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Blaster Motor

Sounds like the bottom end bearing came apart. Don't force the crank to turn! It might damage the cases. Your going to need to tear into the bottom end. You'll probably need to replace the connecting rod, main bearings, crank seals, piston, rings, pin, top end bearing and gaskets.

Ken



-----Original Message-----
From: Josh <******@gmail.com>
To: kenoconnor07 <kenoconnor07@aol.com>
Sent: Sat, Nov 20, 2010 8:36 pm
Subject: Blaster Motor

Ken,
My blaster blew up today. The motor was seized I thought. I pulled the jug
and head off and it all came off fine. The top piston ring is ground down all
the way flush with the piston. The crank turns but it won't do full rotations.
When I turn flywheel it spins easily and then on the piston's way back up it
stops like its hitting something. If i spin the flywheel hard enough it will
power through the sticky spot and sometimes get stuck in it. The head needs
resurfaced and cylinder needs bored. There is slight side to side movement where
the connecting rod and crank meet. My question is what do you think is wrong
with the crank? What may have caused this problem? DOes the bearing between
crank and connecting rod need replaced?
 
I'm going to keep the motor since no one seems interested and I don't need it gone and eventually rebuild it with new case, look everything over, stroke, port, 240 sleeve? and maybe some other stuff