I sheared my woodruff and now I have horrible timing I took off the flywheel and stator plate how do I set it back to Normal when I reassemble
sheared woodruff no timing
- Thread starter aaronsoccer4
- Start date
The timing plate can only be mounted two ways... right, and 180° out of time. There are only two cut outs in the case big enough for the wire look to pass out through, just make sure the wiring bundle is pointed towards the front of the engine.
The flywheel needs to be set down over the keyway once the timing plate is mounted and "twist" it to make sure the key didn't slide out the back. You should be able to turn the motor over (gently) with just the flywheel key. Once the flywheel is keyed to the shaft, torque the flywheel nut properly and you should be off to the races.
The flywheel needs to be set down over the keyway once the timing plate is mounted and "twist" it to make sure the key didn't slide out the back. You should be able to turn the motor over (gently) with just the flywheel key. Once the flywheel is keyed to the shaft, torque the flywheel nut properly and you should be off to the races.
Put alittle bit of grease on the flywheel key to hold it in place as you slide the flywheel back on.
They key doesn't affect timing in and of itself. You simply need to get a new one and put it in. As sic said, try to line the flywheel slot with the key at 12 o'clock and slide it on. Then twist the flywheel. If it is the key is seated in the groove it will twist as one hole motion.......the crank and flywheel will move together. Kind of do this firmly left and right and see if there is any sliding or grinding. If so, the key isn't in the groove. A bright light can be pointing down the slot and you can look and see if the key is in the groove.
The stator plate is what ultimately will control your ignition timing.
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The key does affect ignition timing... The key is what aligns the trigger magnet and the piston position. Without the key, the trigger coil will tell the ignition coil to fire at the incorrect time. The piston will not be nearing TDC and the timing event will be wasted. The timing can be advanced by creating slots in the timing plate and moving it but what you are ACTUALLY doing is advancing the position of the trigger coil relative to the spinning flywheel.
Yes I realize that, but I'm just pointing out that the key ITSELF doesn't do anything pertaining to timing or where the timing is. It merely holds the flywheel in a specific location or alignment as you said so the timing ISN'T screwed up by the flywheel spinning all over the place. In other words......just replace the key and you are fine.
That last part is what I was referring to. The stator plate is what holds the trigger coil. The trigger coil picking up the correct magnet inside the flywheel is what triggers the timing event. If the flywheel key is sheared, the magnet and trigger coil will be "misaligned" putting the timing event off sync with the piston position.
If you have a sheared key, it will affect the ignition timing.
You are correct about your other point however, if the key is sheared it needs to be replaced. Not much other work to be done with it other than replacement, although I like recruiter's idea; a very small dab of grease to hold the key in place. I find that the key is a tight fit in the groove but if the groove was beat up a bit, grease might help. The only risk here is using too much grease... The press fit between the tapers is what transmits the torque to the flywheel so lubrication could cause the flywheel to shear the key again...
If the tapers are damaged in any way, aaronsoccer4, you'll need to lap them back smooth. Some valve lapping compound between the crankshaft taper and the flywheel taper without the key installed will do the trick. You have to spin the fylwheel until the lapping compound stops making a "grinding" sound and then smush the lapping compound back between the tapers again. After 15 minutes or so of heavy lapping, both tapers will have a dull "sandpapered" look to them but will be aligned perfectly. Clean all of the lapping compound off with solvent or degreaser, install the stator and flywheel key, and torque the flywheel to spec. You won't have another problem with the flywheel key again.
My bad......yea I worded that completely wrong. I gotta go back in the other room and punch myself in the face. BRB
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
use a flashlight to peek in there and see if the flywheel is seated on the key properly before you torque it down
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