Runs but will not idle????

2ndstroke

New Member
Jan 27, 2009
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Panama City, Fl.
Hey guys I have a 2004 blaster and i just got it put back together and it fires up on the first kick but it will not idle. I have tried to do the starting fluid trick to see if there is an air leak but i didn't get any kind of responce out of it. I have tried unplugging the tors and adjusting the air fuel mixture there and still nothing. also tried to adjust the one on the car and the one on the tors and still no better. Have any ideas on somthing i am missing???
 
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The valve is pouring good and the reeds are good. I had this case split and i think it may be sucking air through the case. either way it burned up a piston today so it is back to the drawing board.
 
yup, sounds like it could def be a piston clearance issue.
when you rebuilt it the first time, what exactly did you do? if you just put in new rings and honed the sleeve, then most likely you had too much clearance between piston and cylinder. the skirt will get caught on the ports and you'll have a chewed up piston. this means you gotta split the cases again and clean out all the metal bits.
also, when you say you adjusted the airscrew on the carb and the idle screw on the "tors" under the seat, what exactly did you do? did you read your spark plug after each adjustment?
 
yup, sounds like it could def be a piston clearance issue.
when you rebuilt it the first time, what exactly did you do? if you just put in new rings and honed the sleeve, then most likely you had too much clearance between piston and cylinder. the skirt will get caught on the ports and you'll have a chewed up piston. this means you gotta split the cases again and clean out all the metal bits.
also, when you say you adjusted the airscrew on the carb and the idle screw on the "tors" under the seat, what exactly did you do? did you read your spark plug after each adjustment?

when i finally got it to some what idle i rode it around a little big and it cut off then i pulled the plug and the gap was closed and there where little balls of aluminum packed in the plug. but when i rebuilt it i used two motors to make onw. (left side is from one motor and the right side is from another) and i think that it was pulling air through the case. as far as the cylender goes i had it bored .40 over and go t a new weisco piston and rings. (it was bored to the piston.
 
when i finally got it to some what idle i rode it around a little big and it cut off then i pulled the plug and the gap was closed and there where little balls of aluminum packed in the plug. but when i rebuilt it i used two motors to make onw. (left side is from one motor and the right side is from another) and i think that it was pulling air through the case. as far as the cylender goes i had it bored .40 over and go t a new weisco piston and rings. (it was bored to the piston.

From what I hear you arnt supposed to mix and match engines, the tolerences are different on each one.
 
From what I hear you arnt supposed to mix and match engines, the tolerences are different on each one.

Yeah after doing it i would vote "not a good idea" I was trying to take the cheap way out and i could have bought a brand new motor with all i have done with this one. It is nothing more than a big oiled up paper weight now....
 
Live and learn man, we all do it :)

Its worth all the money "wasted" to learn about what your doing if you ask me.

Doing the project is more fun than having the project done.
 
You can mix and match cases like that IF you have them matched. In terms of splitting the cases, if the two cases aren't matched....they won't seal and you'll have problems. Using different side covers, no problem. Most internal components can be swapped out, no problem. A new cylinder on your bottom end, no problem. But the two case halves go together......