Hi I'm new to atv's and I want the max out of my blaster. so what all can I do to a blaster engine to get the max hp without using anything more than 92-94 octane fuel? I like to ride long distance and mess around occasionally. I have no intention on racing other than when my buddies think they're sweet. I was thinking about a hotrods +4mm crank, vito's BB sleeve, wiseco BB piston, vito's hemi head, local shop port, bore, and shave job and jet job with a 4 degree advance on timing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks everybody.
reliable high hp blaster engine rebuild help?
- Thread starter blasterbman
- Start date
I would talk to one of the builders on here--Flotek, Kennedy, or Wildcard. I believe that Kennedy is in your area, MI. If you are going to ride hard a big bore may not be the best answer and as far as the head I would not shave it (I know nothing about the hemi head). Take some time and both read mine and other forum member's signatures to see what they run or are going to run. I think that you might be fine with a 3mm stroker w/ aggressive trail/mx p&p and a 30-33mm PWK with a shearer or dynoport pipe/silencer (and +4 advance).
i aggree with burnin oil, i'm seeing on here, that the 240 kits produce alot of heat, especially "vito's"
i'm leaning toward just an aggressive trail port, and prolly an "lrd" or "toomey pipe", and appropiate carb and possibly airbox
to give me moderate power but stock reliability on pump gas,
before i went all out on a high horsepower build and risk reliability or constant maintenence, id just get a stock banshee
i'm leaning toward just an aggressive trail port, and prolly an "lrd" or "toomey pipe", and appropiate carb and possibly airbox
to give me moderate power but stock reliability on pump gas,
before i went all out on a high horsepower build and risk reliability or constant maintenence, id just get a stock banshee
I agree to a point. A Blaster makes a better trail machine IMO. Especially, if it has been worked over. A reasonably built stroker 200 will make the same peak power as a piped Banshee and have a better powerband. It will be torqier (sp) and easier to ride in tight trails. I also think that it will be more reliable because a Blaster is so much simplier than a Banshee. You just have to do your maintenance. I am not saying to not get a Banshee (I will get one too as soon as I get back to work) but a Blaster can make plenty of reliable hp and it is small enough to manhandle. Sometimes it is cheaper to modify want you have.
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Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Welcome, seems you have done some research on what to do, since you new to ATV,s dont kill yourself with your hyper bike!
A properly built 240 kit will run just fine, I should know, I've been running mine for a year and a half without any issues. Just make sure thats its properly tuned and you perform regular maintenance on it.
Thanks alot guys im gonna consider what you all have said and go from there. If you guys or anyone else has n e thing else to say im always on here and im willing to listen and learn. Thanks again, BlasterBMan
welcome to the site and i agree with everyone on the bb kit. i have one(read sig) and i ride trails and everything but i also run mine on a track built for dirtbikes and like 245 said you have to do maintaince checks becasue i am always knocking something lose or completely loosing nuts because of doing like 4-12 ft jumps and running with dirtbikes. if you just started with atv than you have made a good choice to start with but keep the internals stock for now and just get a p&p with a good pipe......but remember its ultimatly your choice
exactly.....id jsut add that you should avoid the vito super scrap pistons if you want your bike to last long
i'll throw my 2 cents in.. i'd go with a stroker before you go with a big bore. once the cylinder is ported for a stock stroke it may not be reuseable with a stroker setup because of the added stroke and it's effects on port duration. but if you go with the stroker first and the stock cylinder you. can added a big bore at any time. but if you decide to only go with the big bore now and may want to step up to a stroker setup in the future... make sure that whoever ports this cylinder doesn't go over board.. i would stay mild with any porting until your ready for the stroker crank.. again this is ONLY if your planning on a stroker in the future.. if the person porting that cylinder gets the transfer port roof high then when the added stroke is figured in later. the duration will be too tall effecting blow down time.. if thats confusing... just remmeber when your talking to the person that will be doing your portwork.. tell them you'll be goin with a stroker and want to use the same cylinder. MOST COMPETENT engine builders can account now for the changes needed for the added stroke later.. personally though i'd do the stroked crank first
yeah i definitely agree with "370" stroke it first its more cost effective. thats what im doing with my bike except im getting my bike stroked and ported at the same time, so it will match anyway lol.
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