Reeds....

[cabowabosam]

Currently rebuilding engine, 207cc, FMF Fatty, power core 2 silencer. Blaster will get mostly trail riding. Looking at reed options on Ebay, I will be using the factory cage. I would like any experience or opinions. I am looking at the Boyesen power reeds, Boyesen super stock, and Vito's Carbon Flex dual stage (all can be purchased for around $25.00). So, any preference or experience with these? Thanks in advance for all advice.

 

[MURPH]

i run boyesen power reeds in my stand up jetski and run vitos carbon flex reeds in my blaster. both work great and really help with throttle response since they are both dual stage reeds. the super stocks are basically stock replacement single stage reeds made by boyesen

 

[Fast6hand]

I was running the Boysen Pro Series. They are also a dual stage petal.

 

[jus_me]

I run a Boyesen dual stage with no complaints. Nice crisper throttle response. When you get the new reeds they will most likely come with 2 thin metal strips. They want you to use the strips instead of the reed stoppers in the stock cage. If you use the thin metal strip than the reeds wear out quicker and you buy more reeds .. So use the stock reed stoppers and not the thin metal strip.

Be sure to use some blue lock tight on the new screws. The last thing you want is one of those screws to vibrate loose and end up bouncing around in your motor..

 

[joeak47]

Here's my answer...

Stock reeds work FLAWLESSLY, and they are extremely reliable. If your going to jack around with your reeds, just get the Vforce 4 reeds and be done with it. Unless the reed cage is of a better design like the Vforce 4 reeds (8 reed petals vs 4 for stock, your farting in the wind. End of story. Spend your hard earned money on things that work.
DO NOT WASTE YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON STUPID USELESS GIMICKS LIKE... Boost bottles (dumb),
amp links (really dumb), stickers, more stickers, reed spacers (unless your trying to clear the clutch arm, overly huge carbs, special spark plugs, etc.

SPEND YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON THESE THINGS... Porting, head re-chambering, quality pipe,
quality gaskets, quality seals, quality pistons that are properly fitted to a round strait bore, quality fuel,
PROPER JETTING (lots of hidden HP there I guarantee it), quality air filter,
quality 2 stroke oil (no weed wacker crap), quality tranny oil, NGK B8ES spark plugs, A LEAK TESTER, A MANUAL, A TORQUE WRENCH, carb rebuild kit, etc.

Just say'n

 

[Bluesman]

Glad to hear someone point out what I have thought all along. I didn't want to be the instigator of bad news, lest I appear "useless and snotty". It has been many years since I have run 2 stage reeds and my thought then was that yes, they improve bottom end, but they fall off on the top end. My logic was that once the small reed opens, you can't suck a reed open that has a hole in it. Who knows what's really going on with the reeds inside the motor, but any of the VForce reeds are much better than all the rest. Someday you will want to go all out with porting, big bore, stroker crank, big carb, etc. Then you will already have a really great set of reeds.

 

[jvb]

If you like to fiddle and weld, you can also use the old type Honda cr 125 reeds.
Just saying ,biggest bang for you're bucks i think. Intake has to be widened and lengthend(spacer), bolt holes are aligning.

 

[cabowabosam]

Thank you all for you input and feedback, I am not building a monster at this time and only looking for a stock replacement (Vforce are not an option at this time). Reading the reviews, it is a mixed bag. I know this is a long shot but does anyone have any dyno results that would prove any of this? Has anyone actually done a side by side comparison?

 

[joeak47]

If I were you I would just stick with the stock reeds. They work great. Reeds only make for a crisper throttle response. There is no huge HP gain if that's what your looking for. The VForce really helps with porting.

 

[speedyslyder]

this is all i got true or false

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/reed-comparison.13086/

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

I found the Boyesen Power reeds form $10 which is less than stock reeds. Although my stock reeds seemed ok I did notice a spot at the tip of the reed the size of a pencil lead starting to fray, and flipped them over a couple tanks prior to installIng the power reeds.
Picked up a new gasket as well and still was under the cost of stock reeds alone. It came with good clear instructions.
Lapped the gasket surfaces flat, Installed the new reeds with the little metal piece in between the reed and the factory reed stops (on some applications it suggests to use only the metal piece included).
The next day, after the high temp rtv set, I took her out and immediately noticed it seemed to run smoother and sound cleaner on the bottom, throttle response was a little better, especially when coming from looow rpms, or clutching it to get on the pipe. Since my airbox cover is off I could also hear that at high rpm the intake sounded much smoother, made me feel like it pulled a little better past peak rpm.
All in all the difference was only slightly noticable, but it was definitely there, if I weren't already replacing my reeds or if they cost double the price of stock, then I wouldn't bother but if you are replacing your reeds anyway might as well save some money and gain a little performance by getting the Boyesen Power reeds and taking you time to do the job right and be sure it all seals well.

1. Make sure when you put the reeds on that the tips touch the cage by holding the reed tips toward a light source and look g thru the cage.
2. Use a flat surface with some 220 grit on it to remove gasket material that won't come lap large surfaces flat, and a coarse sharpening stone or 220 on sanded flat piece of wood to clean up areas that can't be layed flat on your large flat surface. If you aren't real familiar with professional sanding use 400 grit to finish. Don't remove any more than absolutely needed to get surfaces flat. There is alot more info on how to properly lap surfaces both here and on the net.
3. Use new gsskets, and a small amount (a bead the size of a #2 pencil lead) of high temp rtv.
4. Torque bolts a little at a time (finger tight, half of final torque, wait an hour, torque to Final numbers) and in a crossways fashion. DO NOT OVERTORQUE
5. Wait 24 hours then leak test.

Lol it's amazing what all it takes to do a "good" job, with something as simple a changing the reeds, and I will bet there are about a dozen different opinions on the finerve details of doing this job.
Most importantly you need to make sure the reeds seal, and all gasket surfaces are clean flat and smooth and that it all actually seals. Also you do need to pay attention to the surfaces the reeds lay on, in my case I did not remove the black rubberized edge the blaster cage has.

Enjoy

 

[jvb]

Yep, for you're set-up cabowabosam, stock reeds must suffice,

If I were you I would just stick with the stock reeds. They work great. Reeds only make for a crisper throttle response. There is no huge HP gain if that's what your looking for. The VForce really helps with porting.

Reeds are only for crisp throttle response....With his set-up it could be possible that that's you're only gain, I do think that a small reed cage COULD be holding back air flow at high rpm with certain applications,why would dirtbikes with the same or less displacement have better/bigger reed blocks?? Because Quads ARE de-tuned from the factory..(something about SAFETY..)
Waiting on the critics..

 

[joeak47]

With his set-up it could be possible that that's you're only gain, I do think that a small reed cage COULD be holding back air flow at high rpm with certain applications

Exactly my point. With this set up (basically stock with a quality pipe) you won't notice much, but will notice something. Hence the "crisper throttle response". Even when the reeds are replaced/ upgraded on this basic set up (basically stock with a quality pipe) you can rev it to the moon all you want, but won't notice much of anything up top ,because of the other restrictions in the system such as the bone stock exhaust ports, transfer ports, and intake ports in the stock cylinder. Reeds are, or can be one of the biggest choke points in a reed valve engine. Other restrictions can be ...exhaust port(s), intake ports(s), transfer ports, air filter, etc. Obviously, anything that helps increase the flow of air through an engine will increase its output. Reeds help, but without taking away/ or improving other restrictions, they have a reduced effect. That's why I said that they make a much bigger difference when other modifications are done, such as porting. Porting cleans up multiple restrictions and leaves less to deal with. Hope this helps.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

I have noticed that detuned thing as well the blaster has a smaller carb than a YZ 80, and a smaller reed cage than a 125. Supposedly this is because an a atv is heavier and needs a strong clean low end. More like they designed the blaster as an entry level sport atv. So they did their best to rid the blaster of all the things we love about a two stroke. So Johnny wouldn't get hurt on those bad quads , until he learned to ride and wanted more and bought a banshee

 

[Herpderplol]

Also, as an entry level quad, people expect them to run forever not needing work. so the more reliable they are, the better

 

[jvb]

I have noticed that detuned thing as well the blaster has a smaller carb than a YZ 80, and a smaller reed cage than a 125. Supposedly this is because an a atv is heavier and needs a strong clean low end. More like they designed the blaster as an entry level sport atv. So they did their best to rid the blaster of all the things we love about a two stroke. So Johnny wouldn't get hurt on those bad quads , until he learned to ride and wanted more and bought a banshee

Banshee's and ALL other quads i know off are de-tuned,Banshee only has around 34 horse stock...wich derives it's engine from the powervalved Yamaha RD350 wich has 59 hp stock.(powervalves on a 2-strokes boosts only low/mid performance, what should be ideal on a quad, but they did'nt put them on a Banshee!) Honda cr 250 has around 43 stock..

Another example: Yamaha YFZ450 should have the same engine as his dirtbike "brother" the YZ450F , but has only around 38 hp and the YZ450f has 49 hp !! the big end bearing is also smaller on the quad and probably more other unsettling things are done to quads!

View attachment 24872 View attachment 24872
Quads are dangerous! that is why they are made more "forgiving"
I ride dirtbikes and quad, dirtbike IS much safer.
People tend to ride a quad because they are scared on a 2 wheeler... if you are not able to get your sh*t together on a 2 wheeler, do not think it is going to be better on 4 wheels then you are deffinitely going to hurt yourself!
We in Holland ,see so much deadly accidents with quads unbelievable.

 

[jvb]

 

[joeak47]

If you like to fiddle and weld, you can also use the old type Honda cr 125 reeds.
Just saying ,biggest bang for you're bucks i think. Intake has to be widened and lengthend(spacer), bolt holes are aligning.
View attachment 24832 View attachment 24833View attachment 24834

I forgot to say AWESOME by the way! How about a tutorial?

 

[jvb]

I forgot to say AWESOME by the way! How about a tutorial?

Tutorial about what? The cr reeds?
Every modification i am going to make on my Blaster, will be mentioned on Bf including things that won't work out or where i mess up

 

[pudvah]

I think it's opinion. I've ridden dirt bikes my whole life. Since I was 5 yrs old I've been on a bike starting with my Honda 50. I've only been riding quads for about 8 months and I find it WAY easier to control and safer.