Please tell me this is normal.
- Thread starter Deerslayer89
- Start date
http://www.jakewilson.com/productDe...Shop+Equipment&webCatId=53&prodFamilyId=18289
There are a total of four tools on that page. The clutch tool in the middle and then the three on the right.
In order to pull the crank out of the case bearing and then back in when you repair the damage without the possibility of hurting anything you'll need the case splitter and crank puller.
Most times you can get the cases apart and back together without damage witht a dead blow hammer and some patience. I've put together a few 2 stroke bottom ends and never used any of those tools but that's what they say you're supposed to use.
The total sum for all of the tools needed to be able to split your cases (and basically any other small engine you come across) and reinstall them properly is $200.
A crank can be had for about $159. You'll need gaskets for about $20 and at least a set of rings to fit your piston for about another $20.
All total including tools that'll last forever is $400 and you'll be back up and running.
There are a total of four tools on that page. The clutch tool in the middle and then the three on the right.
In order to pull the crank out of the case bearing and then back in when you repair the damage without the possibility of hurting anything you'll need the case splitter and crank puller.
Most times you can get the cases apart and back together without damage witht a dead blow hammer and some patience. I've put together a few 2 stroke bottom ends and never used any of those tools but that's what they say you're supposed to use.
The total sum for all of the tools needed to be able to split your cases (and basically any other small engine you come across) and reinstall them properly is $200.
A crank can be had for about $159. You'll need gaskets for about $20 and at least a set of rings to fit your piston for about another $20.
All total including tools that'll last forever is $400 and you'll be back up and running.
Are new rings a must? And if so would you have to cross hatch hone the cylinder?
Would this kit be suitable?
Wiseco Yamaha Blaster Crankshaft Kit Crank YFS200 200: eBay Motors (item 230541050915 end time Nov-20-10 06:44:58 PST)
Would this kit be suitable?
Wiseco Yamaha Blaster Crankshaft Kit Crank YFS200 200: eBay Motors (item 230541050915 end time Nov-20-10 06:44:58 PST)
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sicivicdude is all over it. yes that is a good crank kit. the price i was talking about earlier the 6-800 included a top end rebuild also. I replaced my crank without any problems using the proper tools and the manual. you want to order some yamabond5 to seal the cases back together after you install the new crank, bearings, seals. so have you found out for sure if it is the crank? once you pull the top end take a look at the washers on either side of the rod. If they look to be difference thicknesses your crank is def on it's way out. also ANY up and down play on the bottom end rod bearing and the crank is shot. also look in the groove in the center of the rod where you can see the needle bearings, if they aren't perfectly straight in there you need to replace the crank. rockymountainatv.com has all the tools and the yamabond.
wiseco has a really bad rep lately for making garbage crankshafts. i would suggest going another route. if you do get a wiseco kit make sure you take the crank to a shop and have them check it to see if its balanced.
good info noobs i wasn't aware of that. oh yeah i forgot to say, any crank you buy should be checked for truness before you install it by a shop.
Well guys heres my findings. got a piston at .614 and a bore at .619 , dont seem to bad
Cant feel any up down slop on the crank end, But the piston is kinda sloppy. If i hold the
rod to one side and gently twist the piston theres noticible slop at the wrist pin. Not cool
Got a few crappy pics of my piston and bore how they look?
Cant feel any up down slop on the crank end, But the piston is kinda sloppy. If i hold the
rod to one side and gently twist the piston theres noticible slop at the wrist pin. Not cool
Got a few crappy pics of my piston and bore how they look?
What's your bore size?
.614 and .619 don't make any sense... unless that's 2.619 in which case you have a .5mm oversize already. If that's the case, 2.614 isn't correct, you measure a piston's diameter about a half of an inch up from the bottom of the skirt from the front to the back.
If that's what you did (lets hope not) then you have some issues because 2.614" is 66.39mm and it shouldn't be that...
Sounds like a bad small end bearing. You need to measure the rod very carefully to make sure it's ok. The small end should be exactly 21mm and very smoothly polished. The big end should only allow the rod to shift ever so slightly side to side (.005" maybe) , no up and down and no twisting.
.614 and .619 don't make any sense... unless that's 2.619 in which case you have a .5mm oversize already. If that's the case, 2.614 isn't correct, you measure a piston's diameter about a half of an inch up from the bottom of the skirt from the front to the back.
If that's what you did (lets hope not) then you have some issues because 2.614" is 66.39mm and it shouldn't be that...
Sounds like a bad small end bearing. You need to measure the rod very carefully to make sure it's ok. The small end should be exactly 21mm and very smoothly polished. The big end should only allow the rod to shift ever so slightly side to side (.005" maybe) , no up and down and no twisting.
Well i took the engine to the local shop and had a pro take a look. Says my crank is shot.
Piston is .010 over as he confirmed. Bore could use a slight hone.
I think i will go with a wiseco crank kit and have them true it if needed.
Piston is .010 over as he confirmed. Bore could use a slight hone.
I think i will go with a wiseco crank kit and have them true it if needed.
i was u i would just save up and go stroker with a port job to match, i have heard many many good things of ken o'connor about such work and if u want he could most likely rebuild ur engine for u
just a little food for thought
just a little food for thought
Well im hoping to keep the budget under $300 max, i already payed $700 for the hunk of bunk. No Offence
The stroker crank is almost the same price as a regular one. You won't realize the power difference without the proper porting to support it but it'll be there waiting.
The only problem with the +3 cranks is sometimes on the very front and back of the cylinder. Occasionally part of the crank case sits just too far inside of the swing of the rod and has to be filed down. A dry fit before complete reassembly will tell you if this is going to be a problem on yours (It's not a problem on all).
Otherwise I'd opt for the +3 crank and use the spacer plate until you get up some more moolah for the porting later.
The only problem with the +3 cranks is sometimes on the very front and back of the cylinder. Occasionally part of the crank case sits just too far inside of the swing of the rod and has to be filed down. A dry fit before complete reassembly will tell you if this is going to be a problem on yours (It's not a problem on all).
Otherwise I'd opt for the +3 crank and use the spacer plate until you get up some more moolah for the porting later.
Stock cylinder bore is 66mm which is 2.598"
.010" oversize is 66.25 which is 2.608".
If you measured 2.619, it is not .010" oversize. 2.618 is .020" oversize or 66.50mm or 2nd oversize.
If your shop actually said it's .010" oversize, find a new machine shop...
.010" oversize is 66.25 which is 2.608".
If you measured 2.619, it is not .010" oversize. 2.618 is .020" oversize or 66.50mm or 2nd oversize.
If your shop actually said it's .010" oversize, find a new machine shop...
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