paint technique question

[blasterboy32]

If im repainting my frame or having a shop repaint it does the old paint need completly sandblasted off or just scuffed up? I havnt talked to any shops yet but just want to know if i need to find a shop that does sandblasting or not. Also i dont have money for powdercoat but what is the most durable way to paint? Should i use primer than how many coats of paint and clear? would the paint be more durable if i had a shop with a spray gun do it or would me using a spray can be just the same?

 

[mmajay]

You can just scuff it up REAL GOOD and paint it with no problem. You get a better result if you strip it though. A paint shop useing automotive paints will hold up better than a spray can but its not cheap either.Powdercoat dont cost much if any more than an automotive paint job done right. If you do it yourself which i think you should you should strip it or scuff it up good add 2 coats of primer and a couple coats of paint and clear if you really want to. Dont pay someone to do a nice job on it for 200 bux when a powder job is nearly the same cost involved.

 

[Blaner]

if you use a spray can, ypou must be prepared to be doing this task again soon.

You can flat the existing paint with water paper, you want to get rid of any chips, and imperfections by "flatting" them out so that you dont see them with the new paint. you will need to scuff the entire thing so your fingers will take a beating. Sandblasting is a good option, Just ask for a fine grit so that it doesnt pit the surface too much.

As for powdercoating, I must the only person who does not recommend it. For my type of riding, it is not the answer. You see paint bonds to the metal at a cellular level so each particle of paint is attached to the surface so if you get a chip. Its just a that. A chip and with powder coating, there is a very real chance of a pin hole that is not sealed. What happens here is that the plastic encases the metal and water get into the hole and is able to spread underneath the plastic...not good for rust!!

If you paint, you will need a coat of anti corrosive Etch Primer (2 x coats) then you can either do a 2 part "epoxy" base coat clear coat system or do what I do, I single 2K coat which does it all in one. check out this thread to see what I do:

http://www.blasterforum.com/pics-vids-9/time-some-blaster-tlc-43973/#post549362

 

[wwholden]

Im shipping my frame and other parts to litte3mil to have them PC'd. With shipping and all I should come out to be the same cost as if I were to paint it myslelf with auto paint. You might want to shoot him a PM.

http://www.blasterforum.com/advertising-22/powder-coating-46154/

 

[88blasterman]

The problem with painting the frame and not powercoating is, it will get market up very easy. Also powercoating will get every single spot around the frame where as if you paint your going to miss somewhere on the frame and it could cause rust and the rust will spread

 

[wwholden]

I agree, powder coating works like magic I:I

 

[mud runner]

i would go with power coat

 

[Larry's Shee]

It all depends on your budget and desired out come. Regaurdless of product, prep work is key. You can still get a good job with quality spray can , brush on for smaller parts, or brush on through spray gun. If you have little rust get as much loose off as possible then treat it with "rust extend (or simular) or treat it with phosphoric acid (sp?), available at hardware or paint shop/auto parts. Feather any chips/wear , scuff the rest. Prime , paint. Remember 2 light coats are better than one heavy. Pay very close attention to directions for recoat time "window", I know men hate directions/instructions, but you'll hate yourself when you read them AFTER, ask me how I know X(

Let us know what you do and how it turns out I:I

BTW, did son's 'Shee frame with Ace Rust Stop sprayed w/gun, Rustoleum can metalic a arms. Holding up good. Don't get cheep paint at the dollar store.

 

[blasterboy32]

I have about 75% of the paint completely off almost down to bare frame. I figured the more time and better job I do prepping the better the final product will be. What specifically should I get. I'm going to need? I think I'm going to do the etch primer and 2k paint like blaner said. Does this come in a spray can or only for something to put in a spray gun? Where do I get it? Also where can I get hardener and are there certain kinds of hardener to use? Does this all sound like a good plan? Thanks for all the advice so far

 

[Blaner]

go to a auto paint shop. Best is to chat to the dude at the place and tell him what you are doing because i know, we in South Africa use a different naming scheme for the paint side of things.

Bottom line, you need an etch primer, ask for a anti corrosive one.

Then you need paint, it comes in tins, 500ml, 1l, 5l etc. You will probably only need 1l of silver.

If you get a 2K silver, you will need harderner. Ask for FAST harderner, anything less will take forever to dry unless you bake it.

You will also need 2K thinners to dilute the paint before spraying. You cant use normal thinners, it has to be 2K thinners for 2K paint, you will notice it smells different to normal thinners.

You need a decent gravity fed spray gun and a decent compressor to drive it.

Like I said, go to a auto paint/customs shop and they will/should give you the detailed info you need about how thin the paint should be.

One thing to remem,ber is once you have added hardner, you HAVE to use the paint, or at least dont leave it in the gun. It will congeal.