Can anyone comment on whether it's worth eliminating the oil injection if it's just used for trail riding?
Oil injection
- Thread starter t_kling
- Start date
It's worth it. Mixing gas is easy too. It's also easier if you have multiple bikes that need premix, then you can just put gas in every bike from the same gas can.
the purpose of removing the injection is bc u know what u are mixing. the pump mixes 24:1. and if it ever fails ure gonna fry ur motor. u'd feel safer mixing ur own. most go with 32:1 some at 50:1 or 40:1 depending on u. but to be safe. 32:1 is best. thats what i run.
^^Agreed. It doesn't take long to get rid of the injection, and as long as you buy a blockoff kit, its easy to do. When you pre-mix your gas, you know for sure that the engine is getting the proper amount of oil.
The oil injector pump is driven by a plastic gear that has been known to break, and there is always the worry of pinched, airlocked, or blocked injector lines, especially when you're refilling the tank on the trail and debris falls in. That being said, the injection system works OK and does its job, but I (along with most other people here on BF) don't trust it. I'd rather spend $ 29.99 on a blockoff kit instead of $ 150.00 + on a new top end, should the injection system fail. Just mix a good oil 32:1 and go riding. No worries.
The oil injector pump is driven by a plastic gear that has been known to break, and there is always the worry of pinched, airlocked, or blocked injector lines, especially when you're refilling the tank on the trail and debris falls in. That being said, the injection system works OK and does its job, but I (along with most other people here on BF) don't trust it. I'd rather spend $ 29.99 on a blockoff kit instead of $ 150.00 + on a new top end, should the injection system fail. Just mix a good oil 32:1 and go riding. No worries.
there are DIYs on how to do the oil block off without buying a kit. i did it. works great and saves me some $$$$I:I
I'm just trying to give the guy a good baseline for mixing his oil. Just about any 'regular' (mineral) 2-stroke oil will run fine in a Blaster when mixed 32:1. I realize the more exotic synthetic oils are supposed to be mixed at 40:1 or 50:1, (I run AMSOIL and mix it 50:1) but not everybody runs them and its better to be safe than sorry. Especially for those people who like to run cheap, non-certified oils... Best advice I can give is to mix your oil according to instructions on the bottle. If in doubt, run 32:1.
Most will tell you the injection system is crap and fail.... This is 100% false.
its a simple worm gear, there is nothing to fail.
in my years of working at Yamaha, Arctic cat and my own shop I have NEVER seen a failed oil injection pump.
for a stock or near stock blaster the pump is perfect.
however lack of care and maintenance can cause other problems. Idots that force or pound the clutch cover on and break the drive gear off.
or people do not properly bleed the system often enough and or run the oil tank low on oil.
People do not realize that standing the quad up on the rear grab bar or extended wheelies can cause large air bubbles/air locks in the hose. If a really big air bubble is in there it can cavitate the pump and cause it to lose its prime.
Once a month or after the the bike has been sitting up on the grab bar, the bleed screw, should be removed and oil drained for aprox 30 seconds to remove any bubbles in the line. Inspect the lines weekly or when you lube the chain
If you plan to modify your engine then it is a good idea to remove it. Pre mixed fuels do lubricate better and on a modified engine is very helpful. Mix your fuel at 50:1 with a synthetic, 40:1 with a regular oil OR run it with the pump as well as pre-mix you fuel lightly at 100:1
you decide....
if you want to premix go for it. there is no real downside other then your limited the distance you can ride unless you bring a mixing bottle and oil
If you want to run the injection pump and use strait fuel, just be sure to properly maintain the system often and it will last forever.
FWIW my baster was modifeied, higher compression, pipe, port etc and ran the injection pump with Amsoil for 4 years strait.
its a simple worm gear, there is nothing to fail.
in my years of working at Yamaha, Arctic cat and my own shop I have NEVER seen a failed oil injection pump.
for a stock or near stock blaster the pump is perfect.
however lack of care and maintenance can cause other problems. Idots that force or pound the clutch cover on and break the drive gear off.
or people do not properly bleed the system often enough and or run the oil tank low on oil.
People do not realize that standing the quad up on the rear grab bar or extended wheelies can cause large air bubbles/air locks in the hose. If a really big air bubble is in there it can cavitate the pump and cause it to lose its prime.
Once a month or after the the bike has been sitting up on the grab bar, the bleed screw, should be removed and oil drained for aprox 30 seconds to remove any bubbles in the line. Inspect the lines weekly or when you lube the chain
If you plan to modify your engine then it is a good idea to remove it. Pre mixed fuels do lubricate better and on a modified engine is very helpful. Mix your fuel at 50:1 with a synthetic, 40:1 with a regular oil OR run it with the pump as well as pre-mix you fuel lightly at 100:1
you decide....
if you want to premix go for it. there is no real downside other then your limited the distance you can ride unless you bring a mixing bottle and oil
If you want to run the injection pump and use strait fuel, just be sure to properly maintain the system often and it will last forever.
FWIW my baster was modifeied, higher compression, pipe, port etc and ran the injection pump with Amsoil for 4 years strait.
hey YSF u gave all the reasons of WHY to remove the injection. i read prolly ALL threads on this topic about oil mixture and i do agree that ive never heard the pump fouling on this site. i know im not a pro at this as u are a long time mechanic and im not trying to prove u wrong or anything everything u said is right. me being a stunt devil i like riding on 2 wheels so removing the injector for me is a good choice but like u said, it all depends on the rider. my friend has a 98 blaster with the injection running and he never had a problem. i just feel safer premixing (although it smokes more now. damn yamalube) just my personal preference .
Thanks
Im not telling people not to remove it... I just want to clear the air that its not the reason engines are blowing up...
It does not hurt to remove it but there is no need unless your engine is highly modified.
Also remember when you pre-mix you much change the jetting... usually 1-2 sizes larger depending on the mix you run. Why? because there is less fuel per volume... now instead of just GAS flowing through the jets now their is a gas oil mix and that means it will be leaner fuel/air ratio.
For me, I did trails and a few 20' jumps, no huge air and just short wheelies maybe 300' at the most. I did a lot of long distance riding. 13 miles one way dialy, often on weekends 3-400 km, so for me the injection system worked great as I could gas up anywhere. I always ran my bike on Amsoil and also mixed my fuel at 100:1 . I never fouled any plugs. I did always carried a small 150ml bottle of oil under my seat just in case.
However I did maintain my bikes very well. every 3-4 weeks I would lube all the pivot points, bleed the pump, check all fasteners and adjustments. Every 2-3 months I would completely inspect everything on the bike including compression. I bought my bike used and got 3 years on the OE top end, bored it .020" as they did not have .010" sizes back then... then rode it 4 more years... That was 8 years on 2 top ends and the oe bottom. I sold it in perfect running condition
I have never run a race engine with an injection system and every sled I have ever owned I have removed the injection systems simply because they are mostly cable driven or operated and cables freeze, stick and break often without warning.
Im not telling people not to remove it... I just want to clear the air that its not the reason engines are blowing up...
It does not hurt to remove it but there is no need unless your engine is highly modified.
Also remember when you pre-mix you much change the jetting... usually 1-2 sizes larger depending on the mix you run. Why? because there is less fuel per volume... now instead of just GAS flowing through the jets now their is a gas oil mix and that means it will be leaner fuel/air ratio.
For me, I did trails and a few 20' jumps, no huge air and just short wheelies maybe 300' at the most. I did a lot of long distance riding. 13 miles one way dialy, often on weekends 3-400 km, so for me the injection system worked great as I could gas up anywhere. I always ran my bike on Amsoil and also mixed my fuel at 100:1 . I never fouled any plugs. I did always carried a small 150ml bottle of oil under my seat just in case.
However I did maintain my bikes very well. every 3-4 weeks I would lube all the pivot points, bleed the pump, check all fasteners and adjustments. Every 2-3 months I would completely inspect everything on the bike including compression. I bought my bike used and got 3 years on the OE top end, bored it .020" as they did not have .010" sizes back then... then rode it 4 more years... That was 8 years on 2 top ends and the oe bottom. I sold it in perfect running condition
I have never run a race engine with an injection system and every sled I have ever owned I have removed the injection systems simply because they are mostly cable driven or operated and cables freeze, stick and break often without warning.
Do you have to have the cover on? had a friend running with no cover over pump area but pump was removed and capped.
i dont think its a problem to have the oil pump cover off but i'd keep it on just to be safe. u never know. sh*t could get in the pump depending how he had it set up. if its the vacuum lines with the caps, caps COULD come off and sh*t could in the motor. like i said it depends what kinda block-off he ran
pump is off and hole is plugged that is it but no cover looks like they shoved bolt in hole with a washer and jb welded it and left cover off wasn't sure if that was safe or not with out cover ?
sheesh idk that sounds like a half ass job. if he didnt remove the wheel INSIDE the case that wheel is still turning and could chew up w/e he had to block it off (welding, washer etc). OR it could be the other way around, the wheel could b welded and it could strip inside. but if i was HIM, i'd prolly tear all that crap off and get a real block off plate and do it the right way. it just doesn't sound safe for the blaster. take a pic and post it
lol I will take a pic of it tomorrow I have the quad right now and just was wondering because we have major idle probs and white smoke and we are really trying to straighten this thing out ,or save it I should say! will post more tomorrow with pic Thanks alot man!I:I
Smoke issue could be a crank seal leak.that's a serious job man. Gotta split the case and sh*t. If it smoke gray constantly then it could be that. Or if it stops after a few mins of idle. Could be a lotta things. Read up on the forum u'll find out the problem and ppl will help u. Could be the oil mix ratio he's using. What's he using?
I run 40:1 because my 01 has always ran that and no issues but he was trying that and we changed to 32:1 cause we thought same thing but no change .Now what the issue really prob is with smoke is we did not change seal when clutch was done and since we have changed seal and just trying to run all the smoke out looks better on smoking part now seems to be reducing. But will show that pic today Thanks you have been alot of help!I:I
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