Just got a 2001 blaster and it's slow in 1 st and 2nd and sometimes it's slow threw all the gears and then all the sudden when it's in 6th it like kicks in and will haul ass...it has Boysen reeds it's bored 30 over wiesco piston and crank the head is shaved it's jetted and has fmf gold series pipe...the air filter is 100% clean so idk if the carb is clogged and it's depriving the engine of fuel or what but if anyone has any ideas please let me know thanks!
Not sure what's wrong
- Thread starter jordan4521
- Start date
And it also has the oil delete kit or whatever you want to call it so I mix my oil in my gas and I'm using yamalube and doing 36.1
More info please, please list all your mods and jet sizes/needle position.
Has a leak test ever been done?
Have you performed a plug chop to confirm the jetting?
Is the float level correct?
Is the idle set correctly?
Has a leak test ever been done?
Have you performed a plug chop to confirm the jetting?
Is the float level correct?
Is the idle set correctly?
^^^ start with the basics always. Leak Test, Compression Test, New Plug, Plug Chop to get jetting correct, float level....at this point with little to no information it could be a million things.
Everything else must be correct before you can do a plug chop! Leaktest should be first on the list before it is run again. Then compression test, Then clean the carb, set float, check main jet size and report back here. Does it have the air box lid on and what kind of filter?
Yes airbox lid is on and the air filter is very clean and not sure what kind of filter is on there, doesn't look like anything special so maybe the stock one?
This will help you, http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/build-and-use-a-leakdown-tester.10663/ The auto parts store prob won't have everything as some plumbing gets involved. Your local lowes may have what you need, but I had a hard time finding everything in the small town where I live, without it being a frankenstien mess so I PM'd AWK and got one. If you build one, make sure it doesn't leak http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leakdown-testers.55015/#post-685449
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You can check out your carb while your waiting to do leak test, it has to come off anyway. Check that main jet, I believe it is suppose to be around 260 with just the fmf. The main jet will not solve all your problems tho as it only works from 3/4 throttle up, but it needs to be correct for engine life!
Here is my leak tester cost me 42 bucks to build, its a 1/4 pipe T, 1/4-1/8 brass bushing for the shrader end, a 1/8 brass shrader valve, The PVC part is either a 1" or 3/4" cap with a 3/8 pipe thread in the center, the size it says isnt actually the size, it measures 1.360 the carb is like 1.370, I bought a 1 1/4" but it measured 1.865 way to big the fit. With correct PVC adapter, I used a 3/8-1/4 bushing and a 1/4-1/4 male nipple, the gauge is a low pressure 1/4 pipe tire gauge, but you can any low pressure gauge, pipe dope the sh*t out of all the threads an let it sit for a little while before using it so the dope can dry in the threads. An for the exhaust side I used a fernco cap it think its 1 1/4"
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^^^with plumbing pipe the inside diameter is how the pipe is classified, 1 inch should be about right. Yours came out pretty good though, the stores around me just suck and don't have much, I went to 3 places and still had to cannabilize some things to get all my parts
I built mine with things from Home Depot. Except for the hand pump I use to build the pressure. It's from a blood pressure cuff.
Thanks for all the hel everyone, I took the bike apart today and took the carb apart it was really clean but the throttle in the carb was getting hung up and causing it to flood itself out so I sanded it down real lightly and now it works great, the only other issue is it doesn't really want to idle but that is a simple fix.....and also what's everyone using for gear oil in the crank case
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