Hi,I just picked up a 00 blaster yesterday and I was told it was bored although he didnt know how much.I dont know if it is or if it just has that fancy wiesco sticker.It also has a fmf fatty and a dg silencer and what I think is the stock filter, kinda resembles a K&N.the filter housing didnt have a cover on it ,I added one, I'm having alot of trouble starting it . We're talking about 10 or so kicks with the choke out.I took the carb out and cleaned it,I think the jet was a 280 or 380, probably a 280 , it also has the tor bypassed, when I finally do get it started it revs super high, if I hit the throttle enough it will eventually idle down and then die unless I keep feathering the throttle,then hard to start again. I checked the plug it was wet and the reeds looked ok ,I tried two different sets and it didnt make a differance. Does this sound like I need to actually rebuild the carb instead of just spraying it out ? If timing was off it wouldnt run at all would it?Ive read alot of post on here and cant seem to narrow it down,I also sprayed out the petcock ,drained the fuel and put in fresh 93 octane with 32:1 ratio, also what is the tube that comes out of the crankcase on the foot brake side plug into? Thanks ...Josh ....sorry for being so longwinded :-/
newbie here with some newbie questions
- Thread starter supa200
- Start date
have you checked the compression yet?
and the timing being off wouldnt neccesarily make it not start but it could factor in there
and the timing being off wouldnt neccesarily make it not start but it could factor in there
the tube that comes out of the crankcase doesn't connect to anything. Its suppose to be routed up along the left from rail and ends under the hood. Since its taking so many kicks to get it started, I'd check your compression. The high reving could be caused by an air leak also.
So when I check the compression tommorow , low compression = what? top end rebuild? there was a little oil/gas blowing out between the, I guess cylinder and head ,I took off the tank and tightened the bolts , could it be a head gasket? I guess I'll know that once I do a compression test...:-/
anything under 100 psi means its time for a rebuild. If the cylinders still round (true) then you might just have to hone the cylinder and rering it. If you've got gas and oil leaking between the head and cylinder then the head gaskets leaking. Sometimes you can get away with just tightening the nuts or you may need a new head gasket. Not a big deal
^x2^ Get yourself a compression gauge and screw it into the spark plug hole. Then, turn the ignition switch OFF, hold (or zip-tie) the throttle lever wide open, and kick it over. You should get a cold compression reading of at least 130psi after no more than 6 good kicks. This reading will tell you how well the piston rings are sealing against the cylinder wall.
A compression reading of 130 + psi is OK, and you can consider the top end to be in decent, run-able condition. Compression pressures of 90-125 psi reveal considerable wear to the cylinder/rings. An engine like this will still run once fired, but it will be difficult to start and down on power once warmed-up. Time for a top end rebuild.
Any compression reading below 90 psi usually indicates extreme wear and/or damage to the piston/rings/cylinder. Time to tear down the top end and take a look. Probably will need a rebuild if you get this reading, too...
If your engine's top end compression is OK, check your left side crankshaft seal and all of the intake tract for air leaks... Any air leak will make the engine idle erratically. A loose carburetor cap, carburetor clamp, or a blown cylinder jug base gasket will also cause an air leak.
Air leaks will cause you all kinds of problems on a 2 smole....i bought a 2001 blasty the other day and the guy told me it just neede a new clutch, which i already had bc i have a few blasters sittin around...so bc the bike looked beautiful i took his word for it...put in the clutch and it wouldnt start for anything....do a compression check and it was 115 so i went ahead and rebuilt the top end....then it would start hard and run way lean...got to lookin and to my horror it had NO case bolts in it at all! guy had taken it apart for no appearant reason and didnt put bolts back n the case....it was suckin major air so i tore it apart checked it all out reassembled it correctly and presto runs awsome so AIR LEAKS WILL KILL A 2 stroke....and if your head was loose and it was suckin air there is a good change it leaned out and dammaged the picto or rings i know cas i have had 2 of them do that to me!
and im sry for my poor spelling in my last post....im typin in the dark on a laptop and i cant see sh!t!
i too killed a motor cause of a leaking head gasket (head bolts backed out over time, good thing to check) you could see right were it was leaking and that's the side of the piston were it started burning though first
Just did the compression test and andX( ,after about 6 kicks it struggles to reach 100 with the throttle closed with it open its even worse....If I pulled the head off today ,what am I looking for? cracked head gasket? if it is rings how bad of a job is that? thanks....
i see what your talking about now supa200 it wont show me your last post either
i could see them after i posted this but a piston an rings isnt a hard job to do
i could see them after i posted this but a piston an rings isnt a hard job to do
rings are very easy to do. rebuilding the whole top end is actually rather easy. to check for leaks spray some soapy water over areas where you think it may be leaking and kick if you see air bubbles coming from that area you got a leak.
I just took the head off and there was oil all arond where the gasket would be (on the two motor halves) cleaned up the head gasket ,reinstalled and proper torque and still no comp....the piston kinda moved around in the cylinder,like not quite a 1/8 inch ,thats not good ,huh? so whats my cheapest easiest route to new rings and piston? the cylinder walls looked pretty good....would it be easiest to get the slide in cylinder wall thing? a bike shop would charge a fortune to rehone wouldnt it? would any machine shop be able to hone?
cylinder hone could be as little as 40 bux. piston and ring kit about 70-90 bux. is it a Big bore blaster? hope its not crankshaft bearings. just my 2 cents. im no expert. is it a new gasket or did you re install the old one? sparkplug threads good and snug? again. just my 2 cents.
If you took the head off and it has been leakin at the gasket you will see on the piston near where the leak was itll be a different color and possibly visible damage from the leak. If the jug is not badly scored a hone job will cost about 10 dollars at napa....i just had 2 done the other day. If it needs bored thatll cost anywhere from 40 to 100 depending on where you take it. A bike shop charges more bc most often they do not do their own machining they send it out to have it done. Most machine shops have the ability to bore a jug and are cheaper if you take it directly to them and cut out the bike shop. now to tell if the piston is stock....a standard bore is 66mm and a stock piston will be stamped STD on the top. If it is not there are a few options, if you have a set of callipers you can measure the cylinder bore and thatll get you the size or you can take the part number usually stamped n the piston and go to Motorcycle Parts, Motorcycle Accessories ? BikeBandit.com and enter the number and it will bring up that piston and tell you the size. Replace the gaskets since you removed the head bc its a compression gasket and is only good for 1 use!
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