newbie good to know thread

[blasterracer817]

ok first off if im missin something let me know or post it in a reply, but PLEASE do not post unless i did miss somthing ok, i dont want like 14 pages before you can find something thanks.

OK well this is going to be in sections kinda.
1. things to do right when you get your blaster
2. determining riding style
3. Motor
A. Free motor mods
B. choosing the right mods for your style
C. types of porting
D. Big bore options
E. reeds
4. Pipes
A. small bore
B. large bore
C. Drag
5. Carbs
6. Stroker cranks and long rods
7. Suspension
A. FREE mods
b. A ARMS
1. standard travel
2. long travel
C. Swinger
D. shocks
8. rims and tires
9. drag
10. Mx
11. trail/hairscramble
12. tt flat track
13. recreational

 

[blasterracer817]

ok well any who
1. things to do to your blaster whn you first get it
there are 2 main things most people end up doing when they get there blaster, oil injection removal, and tors elimination.
Throttle override system (tors)
tors is a device used to kill power to the motor when your throttle sticks open. it comes in handy but is prone to fail and if you wanna run a larger carb it is almost necisary to remove it.
removal, http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/index21.html#post368402
follow everything in that thread and you will be set, there is also a kit that removes the tors system from the top of the carb those can be purchased here, Motion Pro - TORS Eliminator Kit - 01-0874/01-0023/01-0013

Oil injection removal.
the oil injection is actually fairly reliable, the main reasons people remove them is to know what mixture there running and so they can run a larger carb.
popular mixtures are 32:1 and 40:1
remember to rejet accordingly
heres how to remove it http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/easiet-n-quickest-oil-injection-removal-3810/
heresd the kit T.M. Designworks Blaster Oil Injection Block Off Kit - Cheap Cycle Parts

 

[blasterracer817]

2.determining riding style
this is pretty strait forward but yea,
if you like gong on tracks and hittin jumps and gettin technical you are a mx rider
if you like goin really fast in a strait line your a drag racer
if you like racing but not hittin jumps you are a tt racer
if you like goin through woods at rediculous speeds not noin whats around the next corner obviously your a harescramble or woods racer

3. motor
the blaster motors originated form a japanese bike yamaha made called the dt200, the dt was a 200 liquid cooled motor, if you look close on your blaster you can see the hoses for cooling lines. any part from a dt fits on a blaster and the reverse.
these little motors can be made into rediculouse power houses, there are so many options of what u can do its insane.
A. how to make a few ponies for NO cost to you
timing advance, a advance in timing can bring power through the mid range of your bike for no cost to you, all you have to do is follow this link
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-4-degree-timing-advance-pics-2417/
a thing to remember is that if you go to high on timing you will have to run igher octain gas, 4 degrees is playin it safe but will still bring power.

air box lid, ok heres another one for you, if you ride mud then follow the first paragraph if your pretty dry go to the second

ok first is first muddy people read this, take the air box lid off of your bike. take a 1 inch drill bit amd drill holes every few inches, then when your mom our wife is gone go in there drawer and steel a pare of tights. cut a square the size of your lid and tape it or glue it to the bottom all the way around the lid when you pop er back on you will have an air box that csan breath but still keep out dist and dirt,

dry people just remove your lid simple as that lol

REMEMBER jet accordingly you are adding air it will lean out you quad.

 

[blasterracer817]

B. motor mods for your style.
ok drag reacers your up first, drag racers from what i see usually go with a 240 bigbore kit with a stroker crank, as you get more power into your motor you will need a back cut tranny and a clutch lockout, these mods will make your motor able to handle more power, a thing that is a must for drag racing is getting your motor ported and also piped, you can get an in frame pipe but the best option would be a hand built pipe, modding the head or decking it with a redesigned squish band will give higher compression thus bringing more power so also get that done.
the larger carb you have the more topend you will usually have a good carb would be a 35 airstryker or 36mm.
if you want more info ona a good set up for drag racing pm eather ken o connor flotek or wildcard, or get ahold of kennedy.
a higher gear ratio like 14 36 or 15 36 would be good for this with larger tires

mx
mx is more about down low power u want to be able to take off fast and cut through corners as fast as possible.
with mx you will have to decide if your gonna race in the 200 2 stroke class or if your gonna race in open mod or 450 class, if your gonna stay 200 legal you will not be able to get a big bore kit or a stroker so a good set up to look for would be a mx port and polish, along with around a 30 oko carb v force 3 reeds and a pipe like a dynoport toomey etc. a tusk clutch kit or others will help your clutch handle more power so this would be one of the first things toget before your clutch starts slipping

if your going to go all out, the best thing you could do would be purchasing a 3mm stroker crank with a ct or, project blaster arisol fire breather or a vitos big bore kit. the first 2 kits can have a little more power juiced out of them but all 3 will make quite a bit, for this set up a larger car like the 35 aairstryker would be enough to give your new motor enough go fast juise to run. a good pipe for this would be a high volume pipe. the vitos fat bastard and dynoport high volumes are highly recomended. with a 240 and stroker you will have to have the ports mached to the stroker, with that it will also get ported bring alot more power when you have that done get the head modded to bring even more the rest of the stuff is the same as the 200 class. gearing really depends on what size track your riding on but usually stock gearing woth 18 inch tires will be a good option for you.

woods racer

you guys will basically have the same mods as the mx riders except you will want a trail port and a longer gear ratio so 14 40 will do you good with 20 inch tires.

flat trackers once again basically the same set up as mx except you will want a longer gear ratio 14 38 15 40 and a high rev pipe paul turner and shearer would be a good chice here.

 

[blasterracer817]

C types of porting
there are differnt porting styles for the styles of riding, there is mx trails and drag style poortings you can also work weith a builder to get the power where you want it but yea you get the idea. porting is what really livens these motors up, largining the exhaust intake boysen transfers and drilling a boost can bring alot of power. with a stock cylender you can expect double hp numbers from porting.

REMEMBER if you have a stroker you need to have the ports matched to the crank

D. big bore options
ok these will be in order from cheapest and least powerfull on up
first is la sleeve you buy a sleeve take it to a shop have them pull your old sleave out press the new one in line the ports up and your ready to ride, these are the cheapest and less powerfull way of doing it but it will make more power.

vitos
vitos kits are pretty good the will take a little 500 dollars our of your pocket but they will double your horse power. with all the casting flaws in these cylinders the need quite abit of work in order to make them perfome to peak numbers.

ct
ct racing 240 is one of the best on the line being the second most expensive of the 240's that ive found it makes good numbers, these cylenders have alot of room for porting but come in stock form more powerfull than the previous. porting can make these things behave like a raped ape.

project blaster arisol fire breather
this is the most expensive kit but also the best bang for the buck. at almost a grand you will get a cylinder that is made for going fast. it has no sleave, but instead nikisal lined which will run cooler than a sleeve, it also comes ported from factory by dimond racing and you send them your head and they moddify it, it is a great kit and will make great power, you do need a special piston that comes with, instead of haveing an intake windoiw it has a cutout on the bottom. but it is worth it.

 

[blasterracer817]

D. reeds
reeds, there is not much option for these. there are what close and open to let the fuel mixture into the carb the better the reeds the more power and better throttle response.
from cheapest to most expensive aslo powerwise
stock are ok but there is better.
boysen rad valve with cage these make great improvement there relativly cheap but with still perform if you have the cage that comes ina kit you can port the windows to bring more power,

V force 3s
being the most expensive they are also the best option, your power is increased along with throttle response making this a great kit.

 

[blasterracer817]

Pipes
well there are alot of pipes in the world for these but there is 1 in peticular you shouldnt get. That pipe would be the dg exhaust, its basically a chromed out stocker.

Pipes are made for different ranges, of the power band, ie, pt high rev well is for upper revs of the power band, while an fmf is low power.

ok we will start with small bore pipes, fmf, paul turner pipes, toomey shearer, lrd, dynoport, f7, dmc. those are mainly smallbore pipes but also work with big bores.

big bore, well you really only have 2 options for this but any of the small bore work great too.
dyno port high volume and the vitos fat bastard are really the only 2 large bore pipes.

drag pipes.
FTZ all the way man
this thread may be helpfull for you to try t find a good pipe, http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/pipe-review-23423/

 

[blasterracer817]

Carbs,
well there are many options.
for small bore use a smaller carb like 30mm oko or 32mm
with large bore find like a 34 pj or an airstryker, thos carbs work really good.
with a larger carb you need a larger intake boot also,or you can bore your stock carb out, http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/jeting-help-kennedy-20629/
thats a really good jetting guide

 

[blasterracer817]

strokers and long rods,
there are 2 marketed strokers, thats the vito 3mm and the hotrods 4mm. what a stroker does is increase the power by adding more ccs by stroke, a 4mm has more stroke but because of the exstencive cost to get the cases trenchd and get it put it in, it is not worth the extra 3 hp, the 3mm is the easiest choice, it takes almost no work at all to put it in and gives great performance, there is one more thats not really seen that much any more and thats the 6mm stroker, since there not offered you actually have to have your stocker made the 6mm stroker, although creating the most power you have to have alot of welding done to your cases so that the stroker wont break through.

long rods, there isnt a long rod specifically for the blaster but you can use one off a shee, but it DOES NOT i repeat DOES NOT add ccs, it just takes pressure off the front of the cylinder, to improve life of your topend, blaster motors dont really need a long rod, motors that do would be like the shee and the zilla.

 

[blasterracer817]

Suspension,
front, up front on your blaster the suspension sucks, shocks are eather to soft or to stiff you can never get it right, a cheap mod would be buying banshee shocks and putting them in the front, although there is better performance, it is not that great and money could be saved and spent elsewhere, a good used set of works fronts without resies will be a cloud compared to stock, but there is more, you can get shocks in single rate double rate or tripple rate, that refers to how manny springs it has so a single rate has 1 spring, a double rate has 2, and so on. the extra springs help dampen the shocks so the first spring would be soft and if you hit a big jump they might bottom, that is where the second rate comes in, it takes away the big jumps harsh landing and makes nice and soft, then the tripple is between those 2 and makes a smoother transitionbetween soft and hard. there is also resies which are actually resivores that are filled with oil, and make for an even smoother ride, you can those built on the shock which is piggy back or remote, so you can mount on the frame, then theres the elkas, these babys will run you down alot but oh so worth it, it is like a cloud, just plush as can be. if your running a long travel front end you can run any of the above shocks in 16 inch length so that means a longer shock like the yfz, and will be even more plush, also if your doin that say hello to fox air shocks, these are shocks that use valves for the springs and use air instead of oil, about as good as you can get.
and then theres the rear, generally to soft and bottoms out, a good upgreade for the rear would be a 250r or 400ex or 450r rear shock, you have to do some modding and eather make bushings or buy some frome ken occonor, thes shocks do reallt well, but once agin you can get elkas, and works here too.

 

[blasterracer817]

A-Arms. A-Arms are a key part to getting you suspension to perform right, stock a arms are generally too short and also heavy being made from steel.
A good set of A Arms will be made out of chromoly, which is lighter than mild steel and will also give more travel and a wider front end. for hair scramble and general riding +3 +1 would be a good choice, that means it will move wach side 3 inces wider and one inch forward making your quad that much more stable, Asr makes a good set of arms, also if you dont have that much money Sicivicdude on this forum makes custom a arms and also powder coats them, pm him for a quote,
mx, ice and tt racers generally want there quad really wide. A set of +5 +1 arms will do that. Snyder motor sports makes a good set, also Chassis fab will make whatever you want.

Standard travel. Standard travel refers to the amount of travel and what size shock you can use, Standard travel shocks usually hav 8 to 9 inches of travel using a stock length shock, These arms can get more travel using 16 inch shocks too.

Long travel, these a arms have longer travel because they are made to be used with long travel shocks, IE 16 inch orr longer, Long travel a arms usually utalize heim joints too which means no more popping ball cups.

 

[blasterracer817]

Swingarms. Swingarms have a LARGE variety of lengths and styles, you have the standerd travel, long travel roundhouse. there is A TON to choose from.
Standard travel swingers usually utilize the stock mounting position meaning your travel is around the same as it would be stock. you can get these as long as you want,
long travel is just that, longer travel than stock usualy around 10 or more inches of travel,
round house style swingers have a round house carrier, they function like stock but are alot lighter.
There are alot of swingarms to choose from, you can find many on google, but some you might not know about are
Chassis Fab and
StrokedTater on this forum.

shocks I explaned in the suspension portion, go up and look.
Rims and Tires. Your choices are ENDLESS. If you keep your stock blaster hubs your going to have a dificult time finding the rims that you like.
But you can switch to banshee hubs which are a 110mm pattern. that means there is a larger variety of rims to choose from, meaning more tires also. there are a few different thicknesses of rims, there is a thin wall which is goor for dune tt and ice, then this is a thicker wall which is good for woods and mx, I would recomend a thick wall rim so you dont bend them when you hit something. there is also beadlock rims, these rims are well known in the mx area, they allow you to run lower pressure in your tire without running the risk of popping the bead, they are also really strong and look awsome.

Tires. there are alot of tires to choose from, and also different compounds that they are made from. a stiffer compund will help you with cornering and side wall flex but a soft compund will give you more traction. if you ride woods you will wand larger tires to allow a higher clearance,. mx racers usually run a stiff compound holshot style tire. usually 18 rear 19 fronts, tt usually run a set of american racers or hoosier slicks,

 

[blasterracer817]

DRag racing, there is alot of swwwet drag bikes around and there is a grownig intrest in this field for the blasters. First thing to decide is if you wanna run a stck frame or a custom frame, a stock frame is usually put on a diet and lightened a few pounds and has a custom chromoly sub frame, A custom frame is usually extended ot the front made from chromolly to keep the weight down, you can do it yourself or if you feel incapable shoot as pm to strokedtater244, externded swinger is a must here, you want your front end to stay on the ground your gonna need a extended swinger, im nt possitive on the exact lengths but im thinking 8 inches sounds right, a new styule of swinger comes into play when you talk dragging and that is the latter bar swinnger, its made out of thinner metal and looks exactly like what its called on each side.
Front end Most people narriow the front end and do a solid strut mount running to spindle mount rims which is alot lighter than running hubs, usually there is no front brakes also to save on weight.
wheelie bars are a must for high hp machines you dont wnanna end up flippen over backewards now do ya?
for motor see post number 4.

Mx, wide is the name of the game, your gonna want to run +5+1 a arms with a good suspension set up, if your thinking about mx, dont touch the motor till you have good suspension, its the suspension that will allow you to win, I explaied the suspension in the suspension set up, you will alsow want to try to lighten and strengthen your quad, gussets are a must but also at the same time get rid of all the unessisary tabs. remember suspension is the name of the game here, low and wide.

 

[blasterracer817]

trail/ hair scramble. Youguys want a good set of shocks +3 a arms, and 20 or 22 inch tires, you want i higherr clearance so you can clear logs and stuff like that, a good set of skid plates is a must, a strong low power motor is also good for the woods,

tt/ ice. once again look at the mx, low and wide, with good suspendsion, also not nessicary but what helps is a good sway bar for the front end, it helps keep you level through the corners with a low roll point, i have news that the yamaha r6 shock is good for tt. so you might wanna give that a thought,
ice racers, if your not racing a studded class, get a soft compund large rear tire, with LOW pressure, it helps with traction alot. but if your ruinning studded, cold cutters all the way in a set of heard compunds usually 18s or 20s, if your low on cash sheet metal screws work good too, usually 1 per lug to start and if you wnat more traction you can add more, but remember you cnat take them out...

recreational riding, is just that, just go enjoy your quad,

 

[blasterracer817]

Just in, Steering stabalizers.
They will do you cood in any style of riding, they take faigue off of you and make it that much easier to ride, almost like power steering, in a quad, im not sure on styles, if you wanna know more about stabalizers shoot Awk08 a pm, he swears by them.
Feel free to post anything i missed and ill try to add it in.