New to Blasters/Forum. Help with brakes, general Q's

[ApolloMk2]

Hey Guys - This is my first post I've just picked up a 2002 Yamaha Blaster for super cheap off Craigslist. So far things have been good, but being so cheap its missing a couple things.

For example, it doesn't have any rear break caliper... like the whole caliper assembly is missing, but it does have the rotor. I did a search on google for the caliper and it looks like my best chance is ebay, and still around $130 bucks. Is there any other cheaper after market options out there??

Second thing is a general question about 2 strokes and power. Is there anyway to get more power at the lower end of the scale? My blaster seems like a dog until i get it towards the red line then it reallly starts to take off! I imagine this is pretty normal, just curious though. I'll be using this in some steep off road situations that its not really designed for, along with some river riding. I imagine I'll just have to keep it floored and up towards the red line in a lower gear to get through some stuff; but how long can I do that for? Should I be concerned about over heating, or can it take the abuse?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Blaaster]

Is there any modifications to the exhaust or intake, like a pipe or larger carby?

Advancing the timing by 4 degs and fitting a reed spacer block between the reeds and the cylinder will tend to bring the power you have on earlier!

If you are going to use a lot of wide open throttle and making the engine work hard I would be richening up the main jet a little to aid with cooling.

If you are pre mixing fuel it would be a good idea to use a heavier oil ratio as wide open throttle demands more oil, so that it can come out of suspension and pool in the crankcase.

You of course will have to richen up the main jet if you add more oil!

Also if you are going to repeatedly subject the engine to great engine temperature variations you may like to consider an oil with a very high film strength.

It would pay you to do a plug chop to confirm the jetting.

Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.


WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.


Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.


If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.

 

[ApolloMk2]

Is there any modifications to the exhaust or intake, like a pipe or larger carby?

Advancing the timing by 4 degs and fitting a reed spacer block between the reeds and the cylinder will tend to bring the power you have on earlier!

If you are going to use a lot of wide open throttle and making the engine work hard I would be richening up the main jet a little to aid with cooling.

If you are pre mixing fuel it would be a good idea to use a heavier oil ratio as wide open throttle demands more oil, so that it can come out of suspension and pool in the crankcase.

Also if you are going to repeatedly subject the engine to great engine temperature variations you may like to consider an oil with a very high film strength.

Thanks - that helps a lot! The exhaust has some sort of FMF aftermarket pipe on it. But good to know about the oil and timing.

Any suggestions on oil then? Or any brand/variation do as long as it has high film strength?

 

[Blaaster]

Castor blends provide the greatest film strength and will perform well at higher temps.

My preference would be Maxima Castor 927 at 25:1 oil ratio!

What ratio are you at at the moment?

 

[Larry's Shee]

Couple things to check.
First is jetting and air filter for cleanliness. And plug.
Then leak down test.
Is it complete exhaust or just silencer?
If you have either carb or exhaust off, look for evidence of any port work. This affects when/where power comes on.
List what your gearing is, it may pay to gear down a bit. And what size rear tires are.

BTW WELCOME !!



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