New to blasters and 2 strokes. Please help this noob!

if yours doesn't have the idle screw, you'll need to add one

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Idle screw, drill & tap for installing....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Blas...m483f9bab46:m:mCy6qSy6-B2iRE5hnct94tw&vxp=mtr

how to....
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/idle-kit-installation-instructions-blaster-banshee.52025/
 
thats your idle screw, loosen jam nut, turn in to raise rpm, tighten jam nut to lock in place.

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Is the thing on top idle as well? Also, it seams to still be running a little lean, if i threw in a 240 or 250 main at 500 above sea level with a DG exhaust with the lid on, would that be too rich? Would it be ok with lid off?
 
the adjuster on top of the carb cap is to adjust cable slack, although if turned out too far it will lift the slide and act as an idle adjustment, but will increase rpm's as the bars are turned to full lock one way or another, as it pulls on the cable. it's best to have a l;ittle slack in the cable to prevent that.

240/250 sounds about right for a DG pipe, it's slightly better than a stock pipe, and should require richer jetting
a plug chop is the only real way to tell: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
 
good eye JoeJoe !!!!!
and sweet ms paint skillz :)


thats a massive airleak, guaranteed !
and must be fixed asap.....or go boom asap :mad:

I suggest pulling the whole intake/reed cage, inspect the reed petals while they're out
(or better yet, replace them with boysens or similar)
install a new intake gasket with light coating of yamabond on both sides of gasket, torque to specs, let sit overnight.
then leakdown test, it's the only way to be sure it's airtight, and protect your investment.

airleaks and leakdown tests:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leak-down-test-video.57629/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leakdown-testers.55015/
 
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Alright, lol I'll pull it apart and see if I can fumble through making one of the leak down testers
 
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Here are my reeds (you tell me if they look good), put a new bolt in the intake. Haven't done a leak down test yet, but it's on my to do list. Tried the 250 and it was shuddering with acceleration. Put the 230 back in and that cleared up. The plug is a dark/golden brown when I can do the best attempt at a plug chop (don't have enough room to top it out and shut it down so I red line 4th and shut it down).
 
Can the needle position cause a lean condition? I'm set at the 3rd clip down from the top. I reset the floats and the 250 doesn't cut out anymore. Still working on building a leak tester!
 
If you don't have enough room for a good plug chop, drag the brake. The object is put a good load on the engine.
As to needle, yes it can be lean. It affects from about 3/8 to cull throttle, primarily 1/2-3/4 throttle. In the Clymers Repair Manual page 216 is a diagram of what circuit is in effect at a given throttle opening. Being in middle notch should work.

As to air box lid on or off is at least one size main jet difference.
When tuning best to change one thing at a time and test the difference.

Amazing, set the float and now it works better. Carb tuning isn't that hard, but EVERYTHING has to be spot on. Float level only has a range of 2mm (.080")
 
Yeah, it was night and day difference after I set the floats) (I learned the hard way what improperly set floats can do on my raptor 660). But I think I'm going to try to jet up on more size, 35 pilot and a 260 main just because I'm still a little lean.
Also, I've looked at a dozen "diy leak tester" forums for the size of the exhaust plug I need as well as the insert going into the intake boot, but I can't find what size it is. Can anyone clue me in?