New ride

[CARNZ]

Carnz, what's the actual blue color for the frame? I will need a paint code, I'm thinking about automobile paint single stage because I don't have room in an oven for this thing.... Perhaps I'll work on my oven before I finish this project up and will have the capacity later..... who knows!

Paint Code is 19F (Champion Blue), Krylon "True Blue" Rattle Can is a 100% identical match to the Suzuki Color.

What sort of things do you know that NEED to be addressed as I work through. I'm not sure I have everything...

When you re-bore the cyl, make sure you clearance the exhaust port bridge .002~.003 the bridge is known to expand once the engine gets hot and hit the piston. Also you need to drill oil relief holes on the exhaust skirt of the piston to line up with the bridge to help cool it.

The PV on these is an interesting design, and unless you are running a Q pipe the OEM Suzuki adjustment is perfect. The stock heads are not bad once you get the squish corrected on them as from the factory they were horribly off.

Looking at the picture you have an 88+ engine so you have the "small reed" cylinder.

Maier plastics fit like sh*t as expected, OEMs are still available just for a pretty penny, but they're much nicer

 

[CARNZ]

I also suggest getting the AAEN LT250R pipe as it is quite a runner

 

[StrokedTater244]

every time the topend is apart for rings/hone, bore, it needs to have new thrust washers installed. unless it already has AM rod with thrust washers on the big end, then you don't need them up top. these can wear out and break causing major damage. some guys swear by the billet thrust washers. i have always made sure to keep fresh OEM thrust washers in them and have never had a problem, plus what carnz already said.

 

[CARNZ]

Oh yeah^^ forgot to mention the thrust washers. Search on ebay for lt500r billet thrust washers, (the 250 and 500 ones are the same), buy them and always use them. Then you will need to use a 1999 RM250 Wristpin bearing instead of LT250R one. The OEM thrust washers are junk, and you can roll the dice on the OEMs by replacing each time, or be set for good with one good set of billets

 

[StrokedTater244]

i have picked up cylinders and heads with some pretty bad warpage, head and deck...might want to check that also.

 

[sicivicdude]

I also suggest getting the AAEN LT250R pipe as it is quite a runner

I'm going to be making my own headpipe before it's over with. It will be a handrolled steel cone pipe... so it should be bitchin'

Paint Code is 19F (Champion Blue), Krylon "True Blue" Rattle Can is a 100% identical match to the Suzuki Color.


When you re-bore the cyl, make sure you clearance the exhaust port bridge .002~.003 the bridge is known to expand once the engine gets hot and hit the piston. Also you need to drill oil relief holes on the exhaust skirt of the piston to line up with the bridge to help cool it.

The PV on these is an interesting design, and unless you are running a Q pipe the OEM Suzuki adjustment is perfect. The stock heads are not bad once you get the squish corrected on them as from the factory they were horribly off.

Looking at the picture you have an 88+ engine so you have the "small reed" cylinder.

Maier plastics fit like sh*t as expected, OEMs are still available just for a pretty penny, but they're much nicer

I knew about the .002"- .003" on the exhaust bridge and the oiling holes in the piston to match, the current bore looks great down in there so I'm hoping it's without spec for the 68.50mm bore size and I can run it as is without another bore.

Already contacted a builder about a head rechamber. I'm going to have add material to the inside of the head from the looks of it or the dome will be too shallow for how wide it is. Already been planning that part.

I don't like the fitment of the Maier plastics but I may be stuck with it to be able to get attractive looking plastics... most of the stockies are EXPENSIVE or like mine, beat.

 

[CARNZ]

Yeah Suzuki has bumped up their prices on LT stuff across the board consideribly...

Hit up "500 Fanatic" "Piranha" "IceRacer" "MotorGeek" on QRHQ they will be able to take care of you well, they're all very knowledgeable and do great work.

I will look around when I get home, but I am 99% sure i don't have any remaining 250 parts or I would try to cut you a deal on anything

 

[StrokedTater244]

i would try not let any air in the front brakes..i have found that with the old stock suzuki stuff they can be a real beotch to get bled good again...just adding stuff as i think of it that might help.

 

[sicivicdude]

i would try not let any air in the front brakes..i have found that with the old stock suzuki stuff they can be a real beotch to get bled good again...just adding stuff as i think of it that might help.

I spent three days working on the hydro's for my yellow blaster when I first put them on.... 8-| what a PAIN!

 

[CARNZ]

i would try not let any air in the front brakes..i have found that with the old stock suzuki stuff they can be a real beotch to get bled good again...just adding stuff as i think of it that might help.

TRUTH.

it was *impossible* for me to bleed my fronts manually after putting on s/s braided front lines. I had to borrow a brake vacuum pump to get them to finally bleed out.

The rears, on the other hand, are very easy to bleed.

 

[StrokedTater244]

TRUTH.

it was *impossible* for me to bleed my fronts manually after putting on s/s braided front lines. I had to borrow a brake vacuum pump to get them to finally bleed out.

The rears, on the other hand, are very easy to bleed.

yessir..i think front master cylinder just sucks on most of these...then when you think your good..you will go out and get like 75% on one side and 100% on the other. then back to bleeding..haaa!

 

[CARNZ]

Yeah, I had a brand new master, new s/s lines, freshly rebuilt calipers, and it took for-f*cking-ever to bleed WITH the pump. Handle feel still was spongy-ish, but it locked up the brakes quick, so i never bothered with it again

 

[sicivicdude]

Alright, so while I was welding, I fixed the carrier last night. Someone had stripped the adjuster stud holes out of the assembly and then overtapped with some standard size all thread and hacked up a piece of steel as the plate....

Beginnings of the repair:

 

[CARNZ]

make sure you get that notch on the one end of the carrier back to the way it was, that is used for a large snap ring to hold the caliper bracket!

 

[sicivicdude]

make sure you get that notch on the one end of the carrier back to the way it was, that is used for a large snap ring to hold the caliper bracket!

Oh yeah, I know. It is going to be notched back around so the snap ring works.

 

[CARNZ]

okay good, just wanted to make mention of it incase you didn't think about it and then ran into issues later

 

[sicivicdude]

okay good, just wanted to make mention of it incase you didn't think about it and then ran into issues later

Well, that the reason I welded it. It was half broken off and the snap ring wasn't being held in well. My thoughts are that's the reason this quad doesn't have functional rear brakes, the snap ring groove got broke during some sort of accident.

 

[CARNZ]

Yeah, it looks like whoever owned it before abused it.


I know you like to fix things yourself instead of replacing, but
Good thing is if you need to buy new stuff, Suzuki still sells 97% of everything new still for the LTs. The frame, a-arms, oem wheels are the only things discontinued.

 

[Awk08]

just a side note..............
i had 2 rear carriers break at that same type of "snap ring notch" on my sons old lakota,
seems every time the brakes are applied, that snap ring moves slightly, and eventually wears thru the aluminum carrier, after welding the second one back on, i scrapped the whole thing, welded my own bracket onto the steel of the swinger and applied a gsxr caliper to it
worked much better, never to concern me again

 

[sicivicdude]

Yeah, it looks like whoever owned it before abused it.


I know you like to fix things yourself instead of replacing, but
Good thing is if you need to buy new stuff, Suzuki still sells 97% of everything new still for the LTs. The frame, a-arms, oem wheels are the only things discontinued.

She was pretty well beat.... luckily it's found its way into safer harbors now....

and pay retail?!?! you've bumped your head. Argon and filler rods cheap, carriers from Zuki are pricey!

I just got back inside from filling the last bit of the undercut area. Unfortunately, I'm going to the in-laws in Kentucky for the long weekend so no progress will get made on any of the projects I have laying around. 8-|