Okay picked up my 2002 blaster today and there is a little bit of a project. Gotta do the seal behond the countersprocket. It has a little side to side play and th e seal is leaking. Seal ordered and seems easy but is there supposed to be that play? Gotta order all of the chain rollera and all of that stuff because they are non existant. There is a little play in the steering column .is there something I can replace to tighten that up? Next I went through theud a little then pulling up to my house the throttle went wide open and thekill switch didn't wotk? All stock except its running 40-1 premix which I will be changing over to 32-1 tomorrow.
new blaster. small issues
- Thread starter jokerfacewild
- Start date
Leak test it! There's vid in YouTube how to do it also does the stem have play when h move it back and forward or when u steer it?
when changing from 40:1 to 32:1 you will need to rejet, the side to side play is normal mine does it to, theres 2 little bushing pieces that get worn out on the column easily. mine also has that same play but i just leave it, doesent bother me. the kill switch could just be that the wires are loose or that your running very lean and the engine was so hot it was running without spark i think its called diesaling?
It would really help if you listed all mods. Is your TORS removed? If so is it done right with the Humber wires??
Okay it is bored .40over. Im going to clean my carb tomorrow and start my 32-1 I checked the kill anf it was okay. Overheated like hell. How do I take care of this leaning? I picked up a 240 250 260 main jet today whrre to start. I would like to remove airbox lid. What would that do?
Mods.....
.40 bore
Oil block off kit done correctly.
Tors is not removed.
The rest is bone stock.
Mods.....
.40 bore
Oil block off kit done correctly.
Tors is not removed.
The rest is bone stock.
What main jet is in there now? A 230 should be fine if it is stock. I would leak test it if it overheated. Do these two things and report back. Leak test and remove TORS.
Will remove tors in the morning. Link for getting a tester? Or can I do it without buying a tool? But why would the throttle stick wide open?
Are you sure the actual throttle was stuck. A 2s will run away/deisel/auto-ignition with the throttle closed. This due to an air leak or extreme lean condition other than air leak. They will sometimes do it when gas is shut off to run carb bowl dry. With the engine off, work the throttle, you should be able to hear the slide "clunk" in carb when you let it snap closed. Lube throttle cable, and open both side of the TORS "brick" on top of carb and lube in there. After that pull boot off carb and look to see that slide is actually closing. Might be 1/16" opening when closed.
I apologize. It was just going at full rev my throttle leaver came bqck out though. Still at full throttle
You need to get a leak tester than you use the soapy water if it won't hold the pressure. A member used to sell them on here, but he is long gone. Look into buying your own. There should be some info on here. You should not have to rejet a STOCK bike.
Okay so im in the process of cleaning the carb now and removing the tors and I think I found where some air could be leaking. On the left side of my engine the electrical wires where they go into the case cover thw the rubber gromet is not set in. Would that cause the leak?
Okay so no air. Im doing my countersprocket seal as it is leaking. The large bolt on the bottom of the block would be the drain plug im assuming?
yes, be sure to use the proper size 6 point socket on it, to prevent stripping.
