Only problem Awk is that his floats are seperate from the arm and ride on pins in the float bowl (see pics)
New Blaster, new problems.
- Thread starter thebigrooster
- Start date
My friend just bought an 1976 suzuki ts100 -- in great shape -- and he bought amsoil intercepter for that. What should I mix that at where it wont bog out the engine? 50:1? I will drain the rest of the gas, clean air filter, change spark plug and give it another shot at current settings. (260 main, goofy needle on 2nd from top)
Also -- as far as that needle goes, I've gotten familiar with this carb to some extent, that needle doesnt really drop at all unless I push on the float arm. That's why all the pics are horizontal. Is it possible then that according to Shee's manual that I have to measure from the top of the boss where the main jet mounts, or should it still be measured from the gasket mating surface?
PS you guys are awesome.
Also -- as far as that needle goes, I've gotten familiar with this carb to some extent, that needle doesnt really drop at all unless I push on the float arm. That's why all the pics are horizontal. Is it possible then that according to Shee's manual that I have to measure from the top of the boss where the main jet mounts, or should it still be measured from the gasket mating surface?
PS you guys are awesome.
the bad thing about playing with oil ratios is that throws the jetting way off,
less oil = richer fuel/air ratio
more oil = leaner fuel/air ratio
so when you jump from 50:1 to 32:1 or 100: 1 or whatever, your jetting must be changed to compensate for the more/less oil/fuel
i highly suggest ditching that amsoil 50:1 and 100:1 oil and get some good 32:1 ratio oil.
thats what 99.99 % of the jetting info available on here is based off of.
i prefer the maxima super M myself
I agree with you however I am just about tapped out of cash. (I've been putting 3-5 hours a day into this guy, either reading or wrenching. And I've got 20 bucks in Amsoil out there in my garage.
I'll ditch the saber but I think I'll try the Intercepter @ 50:1. Main reason being is that when I got it it had amazing power, and the PO was running Amsoil at 50:1. He probably wasn't running saber though, so I wonder if that's a big part of my problem. Jetting is already off and I have a 200 as well as 230-280, so I have jets to try and adjust accordingly. I don't have any good 2 stroke oils available nearby aside from chainsaw type oils.
I'll ditch the saber but I think I'll try the Intercepter @ 50:1. Main reason being is that when I got it it had amazing power, and the PO was running Amsoil at 50:1. He probably wasn't running saber though, so I wonder if that's a big part of my problem. Jetting is already off and I have a 200 as well as 230-280, so I have jets to try and adjust accordingly. I don't have any good 2 stroke oils available nearby aside from chainsaw type oils.
2XX ^^^ on bean oil, eco friendly 8-| renewable resorce I:I. My son was bummed when I told him he had to run Yamalube to play on the ice, bean oil coagulates below about 40f X(
Bean oil, bean oil, bean oil, Bean oil, bean oil, bean oil, Bean oil, bean oil, bean oil, Bean oil, bean oil, bean oil, Bean oil, bean oil, bean oil, Bean oil, bean oil, bean oil, did I mention bean oil at 25:1.
I will consider Klotz if I can ever found it-- I have yet to see it in person, at the big honda dealer in Toledo or in the little crappy one in Defiance... However I'm still wondering if anyone can help me with my float level situation. I know Shee posted a manual that looks pretty close, but there are a couple other places mentioning different specs. Anyone dealt with a 28mm Mikuni's floats?
At this point, if that linc to the zuki carb didn't help try calling carb parts warehouse. Be sure to have the carb in your hand to be able to acurately describe it, as there may be numbers & such to help in ID. Good luck.
Just finally got ahold of CPW and he said it should be the same float height as a factory carb would be. Is this carb pretty similar to a factory carb minus TORS?
So last night I did something I should've done a long time ago. I got it warmed up, putting around the yard, pushed in the choke, immediately died. Fight to start it back up, plume of smoke rolls around me. Push in the choke, put around the yard a bit and remove the air box lid. It almost pulls my hands off the handlebars, then I almost put it in a ditch because I forgot how fast it was haha.
Point being, when I got it, it was a 200 main jet.. with full fmf exhaust. It ran great until I put in my 93 octane gas with Saber at 40:1. Then it ran really rich all through the band, missed and sputtered. I put in a 260, and it runs the same way. Remove the lid, and its only got a small miss mid-throttle. Needle is same position as when I got it, 2nd from top. Any ideas on what could make it so rich?
Point being, when I got it, it was a 200 main jet.. with full fmf exhaust. It ran great until I put in my 93 octane gas with Saber at 40:1. Then it ran really rich all through the band, missed and sputtered. I put in a 260, and it runs the same way. Remove the lid, and its only got a small miss mid-throttle. Needle is same position as when I got it, 2nd from top. Any ideas on what could make it so rich?
Wrong needle.
Wrong float setting.
Float sticking.
Dirty air filter.
Wrong premix ratio, use 32:1.
Wrong float setting.
Float sticking.
Dirty air filter.
Wrong premix ratio, use 32:1.
the needle and float setting are the same as when i got it. air filter hasnt been cleaned yet but its the same as when i got it as well. the carb bowl has never overflowed. but i leaned out the fuel mixture from what the PO said he mixed at, 50:1, when i went to 40:1. thats why im confused.
the only thing that has changed that im aware of is the fuel mixture, which has gotten leaner, and it runs rich unless air box lid is on. im just confused i guess.
the only thing that has changed that im aware of is the fuel mixture, which has gotten leaner, and it runs rich unless air box lid is on. im just confused i guess.
Where on the throttle does it run best, or worst.
Let's see which of the carb circuits could be causing the problem.
Start at idle, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 then wot.
Let's see which of the carb circuits could be causing the problem.
Start at idle, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 then wot.
Before I took the lid off it was sputtering and running so rich it couldn't go wot at all. Had to downshift to keep speed up small hills. Max speed was probably 20-25. Took off lid and I believe it only has a stutter in between 1/3 and 2/3 throttle. Everywhere else is almost perfect, and it pulls hard at wot as well.
This points to the needle.
Adjust the idle, drop the needle down one clip to lean it out.
Please explain sputtering, do you mean it was sounding like a 4 poke.
I feel that a stock needle could well solve your problem.
Do a plug chop at 1/2 throttle and this will tell you if the needle is at fault.
Makes absolutely no sense to try and "tune" the carb with a dirty filter. Clean the filter, put the lid back on and start all over.
Also, just because it's the "same" as when you got it doesn't mean it's right. 8-|
