Need some help with Automotive Paint

[Triple_B]

Ok so I'm going to spray my frame with some automotive paint. I have an HVLP spray gun for my compressor, gravity feed, 0.055" nozzle, uses 40 PSI, 20.3 oz cup. I'm going to be using DuPont Acrylic Enamel paint for my frame, swingarm, and a-arms. Then going to heat cure the paint on with a heat gun.
Problem is, I dont get the whole thing with hardeners and reducers. I dont know what I need to mix with the paint to allow the heat-curing process. Ive been reading up on Automotive Forums, but everyone says something different about the proper ratios of paint:hardener or paint:reducer. I know Blaner works with automotive paint and he sprayed his A-Arms but I dont get what I have to do to the paint to allow the proper finish. Also, whats with clear coat? Some people say not to do it, some people say its a must and you have to mix reducers/hardeners to the clear coat in order to prevent "Orange Peel"ing of the paint. Any help appreciated, rep will be given to all that help

 

[StrokedTater244]

i use acrylic enamel with a wet look hardener, almost as shiney as base/clear.

 

[Triple_B]

i use acrylic enamel with a wet look hardener, almost as shiney as base/clear.

What ratio of paint:hardener did you use? Did you heat-cure it on?

 

[StrokedTater244]

i forget the brand. i get it at a carquest auto store.mixed 4:1:1. ill see if i can find you a link.

 

[StrokedTater244]

here is the hardener i use:

Mar-hyde Wet Look Hardener - 2612

no heat on it.. just spray in warmer temps and lowest humidity possible.

 

[blasterdemon7]

I think the mixing instructions are on the cans. Get yourself a mix ratio cup.

 

[Triple_B]

Thanks tater. I'll get some of that stuff. For the ratio, you do: 4oz Paint: 1 oz hardener: 1 oz reducer? Is that correct, I might be using the wrong measurement.

 

[slickerthanyou]

Hey Triple, The place where u bought the paint should be able tell u what the ratio's are, it all depends on what type of hardner, reducer, paint and application!

Napa is a great place for info too!

 

[StrokedTater244]

yeah as said it varies on the brand you are using. it should tell you on the paint container, or at the store that sold you the paint. the mixing cup and a couple strainers are good things to have. doesnt have to be perfect, but really close helps!

 

[Triple_B]

Thanks!!!!!!!!!! I'll make sure to get a cup and some strainers. And to read the instructions for the paint.

 

[blasterdemon7]

Don't they sell the cans now already mixed? I think I seen it from Eastwood or Napa. Can't remember what one.

 

[StrokedTater244]

Thanks!!!!!!!!!! I'll make sure to get a cup and some strainers. And to read the instructions for the paint.

yeah man! they should give you a couple strainers and stirring sticks where you buy the paint. they have stacks of them. they give them to me where i buy my paint anyway. prep work is a big part to a nice paint job also.

 

[Triple_B]

yeah man! they should give you a couple strainers and stirring sticks where you buy the paint. they have stacks of them. they give them to me where i buy my paint anyway. prep work is a big part to a nice paint job also.

Yea I know prep work is important. I'm going to use paint stripper on the frame to get the old crap off, and then I'm going to use 440 grit sandpaper to give the primer something to hold onto

 

[StrokedTater244]

if you want to make it really nice and silky smooth..id go 220..then use a filler/sandable primer.. then wetsand that with 400-600.. then wipe that down and lay on the paint. primer will also effect the color..what color are you going with?

 

[Triple_B]

Ok, can I use primer with the paint gun? Or do I have to use rattle can primer? And what type of primer do you recommend?
I'm not sure on the EXACT color, but its going to be some sort of metallic blue.

 

[CARNZ]

for the paint i used to spray at work (BASF R&M Diamont series) our Bases used 4:1 ratio 4 oz of paint to 1 oz of reducer, and our clears used 4:1 4 oz of clearcoat to 1 oz of hardener.

For clearcoats the hardeners dont affect the "Orange Peel" effect, that is in your pressure of the gun and your spray technique, the hardener is just the catalyst that determines how fast the top layer of the clear will "harden" so it can be baked and cured. The only problem with using "too fast" of a hardener is that the clear will begin hardening before you have all of your coats on, or before you are done the whole area. Obviously this is not as big of a deal since it's only a frame and some small pieces. But when painting cars you have to take that into account.


It's always a good idea to stay with the same brand for all of your paint system's components. Example, BASF Primer and Reducer, BASF Base Coat, BASF Clear Coar and Hardener. each company uses their own solvent and additive package and i have seen first hand the disaster that comes about when incompatible mixes are sprayed.

Try to use at least (2) "medium" strainers at the same time(just stack them), and your gun will spray much better and will not clog up.

 

[Triple_B]

for the paint i used to spray at work (BASF R&M Diamont series) our Bases used 4:1 ratio 4 oz of paint to 1 oz of reducer, and our clears used 4:1 4 oz of clearcoat to 1 oz of hardener.

For clearcoats the hardeners dont affect the "Orange Peel" effect, that is in your pressure of the gun and your spray technique, the hardener is just the catalyst that determines how fast the top layer of the clear will "harden" so it can be baked and cured. The only problem with using "too fast" of a hardener is that the clear will begin hardening before you have all of your coats on, or before you are done the whole area. Obviously this is not as big of a deal since it's only a frame and some small pieces. But when painting cars you have to take that into account.


It's always a good idea to stay with the same brand for all of your paint system's components. Example, BASF Primer and Reducer, BASF Base Coat, BASF Clear Coar and Hardener. each company uses their own solvent and additive package and i have seen first hand the disaster that comes about when incompatible mixes are sprayed.

Try to use at least (2) "medium" strainers at the same time(just stack them), and your gun will spray much better and will not clog up.

That cleared up the confusion perfectly. Couldnt have been more better described. Thank a lot man for clearing that up for me. rep given to all of you

 

[Larry's Shee]

I would also suggest a filter that goes right on the gun, traps any oil/water that might be in air. Drain water out of tank before you start and often. Also be aware of "pot life", after you mix every thing you have a period of time to use it. Don't want to waste it or spray after it starts curing. This is all dependant upon paint system. WEAR A RESPIRATOR. 3M is less than $40.

 

[StrokedTater244]

more great tips ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[CARNZ]

^good stuff. I forgot to mention the little add on filters that go on the end of the gun where the air input is. Make sure you have a good dryer system on the end of the compressor with fresh dessicant to catch the water oil/mix, the filter on the gun is kind of the "last line of defense"

i cant agree enough on the respirator too, the hardeners in clear coats are extremely deadly, more so than the other chemicals in the paints even though they all are toxic. At the paint school, our instructor was telling us about a painter that was not using a respirator and was inhaling catalyzed clear coat while he was spraying it, it literally started to "harden" his lungs and inside them.

Safety is no joke