I just did a bunch of mods to my blaster and id like to know roughly what I should rejet to.The mods I did were from a completely stock blaster except it had a oil block off kit installed. I put a stock stroke stuffer crank wiseco piston v force 4 reeds tors eliminator kit cfm air box fmf fatty and a power core 2 silencer. I dont have a lot of $ left to buy a bunch of jets so I'm looking to get 2 or 3 and plug chop and be good. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks guys
need jetting help
- Thread starter Ormanjw
- Start date
Is that all ill have to change then is the main jet? Thank you for the quick response
i'd buy a 310, 300 and 290 for that low elevation and mods, start large and plug chop down.
ebay has them at decent prices if you can't find them locally for comparable prices
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/mikuni-and-keihin-main-jets-on-ebay.58225/#post-721974
ebay has them at decent prices if you can't find them locally for comparable prices
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/mikuni-and-keihin-main-jets-on-ebay.58225/#post-721974
i've used the stock carb on engines with varying states of tune, and 5 different pipes,
i've yet to have had to change from the stock pilot or needle clip in the middle setting.
the airscrew turns out for high idle will tell you what pilot it wants
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
for the needle, i like to richen the needle by dropping the clip until it rich bogs, then back up one.
but middle seems to be the magic position for the stock carb on most setups
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Can I successfully plug chop before having the engine broke in? I put a brand new jug on the bike along w the other mods but its just factory 66mm. Or which jet should I use to do the 3 heat cycles like ken shows
Put in whichever main you intend to start with, put clip in middle on needle, set air screw to 1.5 turns out,get it running. Set your idle an air screw to the pprocedure linked above an that will be about your first heat cycle, as you continue your heat cycles, leave it alone till head an base are retorqued, then ride it somean fine tune your air screw then do you wide open throttle plug chops, im not really one to go through a long break in process, I do heat cycles, an jet it an ride like normal, but to each there own, I dont even break in my race engines i build for cars, heat cycle change oil an off to the races
put the largest (310) in to do cycles.
then check the plug at that point. if it is still stark white, not a good sign
but dark brown will mean it would be safe enough to break in for a tank or two of gas, and THEN do plug chops.
Have you leak tested? i havent read the whole thread.
leak testing is a must, if you have a leak, your jets wont be right, and plug chopping wont help
then check the plug at that point. if it is still stark white, not a good sign
but dark brown will mean it would be safe enough to break in for a tank or two of gas, and THEN do plug chops.
Have you leak tested? i havent read the whole thread.
leak testing is a must, if you have a leak, your jets wont be right, and plug chopping wont help
By chance did you buy one of those brand new aftermarket jugs? If so, a complete review is a MUST !!
Thank you all for the responses I'm changing the jets and doing the heat cycles tonight . I'll post my results for future references.
TeOTE="Larry's Shee, post: 739984, member: 6480"]By chance did you buy one of those brand new aftermarket jugs? If so, a complete review is a MUST !![/QUOTE]
Yes its a brand new aftermarket jug. Everything on it seems right except the exhaust ports are a little ugly no cracks or nothing. Great fit all around.
Yes its a brand new aftermarket jug. Everything on it seems right except the exhaust ports are a little ugly no cracks or nothing. Great fit all around.
