Need help with the idle on a keihin 35mm

Alright Jay, i'm not sure which wires you are connecting (fill us in). For a 2001, you want to DISCONNECT the blk/wht wire coming out of the TORS box (under hood, upper left) and tape it up. Everything else tors-wise is cosmetic or involved in something like your carb replacement.

Low, technically you are thread-jacking (and confusing me a bit) but as for your 2004, you want to ground the yell/blk wire coming out of the CDI (tors built in to it). The way I did it was to cut the connector off the throttle switch, solder the two wires together, and plug it back in, making a jumper.
 
Alright Jay, i'm not sure which wires you are connecting (fill us in). For a 2001, you want to DISCONNECT the blk/wht wire coming out of the TORS box (under hood, upper left) and tape it up. Everything else tors-wise is cosmetic or involved in something like your carb replacement.

Low, technically you are thread-jacking (and confusing me a bit) but as for your 2004, you want to ground the yell/blk wire coming out of the CDI (tors built in to it). The way I did it was to cut the connector off the throttle switch, solder the two wires together, and plug it back in, making a jumper.

This bike was messed with and half assed before i got it thats why i dont know whats going on with it and besides i have no history of how this new carb run before i got it. I soldered 2 wires that were the same color as whats on the top of the tors because it was twisted and it idled for a little while , it might of been a fluke, I rejetted way lower tonight and no fix. One thing i have not done is find a throttle cable that has no slack and take all the slack out and see if this helps.

I just have to either find the right cable for a twist throttle i have now and i have no clue what it is or buy a new throttle control cable and all that fits the keihin.

I hate an expensive part elimination but i hate no idle as well. It cant be jets cause i ruled that out tonight, no jetting will fix it.

I know i can idle it up if i get the slack out and adjust the slide up a little, but not sure if thats the proper way to fix it but it will fix it.

Yes, and i gave up after the thread jack,lmao.
 
Well, wiring-wise, follow the quickie TORS disconnect I gave earlier, and if it has spark, then you are golden with the ignition.

The possible need for a throttle cable should really have no bearing upon whether it idles or not. The idle speed screw on the side of the slide housing should raise or lower the slide for direct speed control. The idle air screw controls the mixture. Unless there is a mechanical problem (compression, etc) or the idle circuit or pilot circuit is plugged, then it should idle.

Have you checked the float level?

BTW, are you sure it is an Air-Striker? The standard jetting for the AS and non-AS is very different. This reflects the sensitivity of the AS.

Standard jetting for a PWK35 Air Striker
PWK35 #160 #48 48-DEK 4.5 16mm

Non Air Striker
PWK35 #160 #68 48-DGK 6.0 16mm
 
ok I know it seems stupid but check your air screw the throttle cable has nothing to do with your idle although I would get rid of the freaking twist throttle seems like a good idea till you land a jump and your wrist rolls back dumping the throttle and throwing you off lol:D at any rate I bought a parts bike and it had a jetted carb so I used it on my bike and it wouldnt idle so I got to looking at it and was missing the air screw and this guy rode it like this hmmm you think thats why it was running lean and trashed the piston and became just as I said a parts bike
 
Well, wiring-wise, follow the quickie TORS disconnect I gave earlier, and if it has spark, then you are golden with the ignition.

The possible need for a throttle cable should really have no bearing upon whether it idles or not. The idle speed screw on the side of the slide housing should raise or lower the slide for direct speed control. The idle air screw controls the mixture. Unless there is a mechanical problem (compression, etc) or the idle circuit or pilot circuit is plugged, then it should idle.

Have you checked the float level?

BTW, are you sure it is an Air-Striker? The standard jetting for the AS and non-AS is very different. This reflects the sensitivity of the AS.

Standard jetting for a PWK35 Air Striker
PWK35 #160 #48 48-DEK 4.5 16mm

Non Air Striker
PWK35 #160 #68 48-DGK 6.0 16mm

Its definately an air stryker and the float level measures about 21mm give or take and it looks fine , the carb is clean but i sprayed it again down in the idle circuit, that possibly might have something to do with it.

Compression is fine, the one thing that baffles me is the damn thing idled fine for a brief period and then went to acting up again. I got the carb in my hand as i type this just scratching my head. After seeing how that idle screw works i now know the cable dont have jack to do with the idle as well. I took pilot jet back out and sprayed it some more with cleaner, not sure what else i can do to insure its clean as possible although the carb is pretty clean.
 
Is it possible the CDI wont let it idle? I ran out of things to check on the carb. The reason i ask this is this problem is intermitant and this morning it would not fire and i let it set and it fired up.
 
try jacking up the idle pretty high, and then working down.


are you sure the petcock is clean and flowing well?
 
If yours is a 2001 cdi then it should have no control over whether it runs or not as long as you disconnected that blk/wht wire from the TORS control box.

That said, how's this for a slap in the face? 21mm for your float setting is way too low. Sorry I didn't catch it before when you said it, but the float setting for a PWK35 is 16mm. Your float level is off far enough to make a major difference in idle quality.

I think you know this but I will say it again anyway. Make sure when you set it that the weight of the float is just barely resting on the needle and not compressing the spring loaded needle. I usually hold my carb on its side to do this.