Need help - rebuilding top end

Henz155

New Member
Jan 3, 2012
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wuts up everyone. i recently bought a 03 blaster on craigslist. the motor is making a slapping noise so im opening it up to see what i can find and possible replace the top end if neccesary. i got the top o the motor off an the top of the piston says 0.50 could this mean its already been bored over .50? any help or suggestions would b appreciated
 
Yup. If your doing the top end, I would use a Wiseco piston and stock factory gaskets. You will want to do a leak down test when it's all back together and check your jetting.
 
if its bored over .50 already does that mean i would have to get bigger jets for my carb? also, the cylinder, rings and piston all look pretty good still. any ideas what could make it make a slapping/clicking noise?
 
if its bored over .50 already does that mean i would have to get bigger jets for my carb? also, the cylinder, rings and piston all look pretty good still. any ideas what could make it make a slapping/clicking noise?

the only way to determine if a top end needs to be bored is to use a measuring device with an accuracy of at LEAST .001" or .02mm and measure the piston to cylinder clearance per the service manual's specs. You need to measure piston diameter 10mm up from the bottom of the skirt and bore size using a bore gauge in 9 different places (per the service manual's instructions)

The difference should be no more than .002" and no less than .001" or between .03mm and .06mm (give or take)

If the piston already has a stamp of .50 on top it's probably already been bored over .5mm or .020". The good news is, there are a total of 10 lives on a blaster cylinder, stock and 9 overbores. If you're only on .5mm you still have 7 more lives in that old cat!

If you do not feel comfortabe or do not have the tools necessary to measure the piston to cylinder clearance you can either purchase the tools (at a reasonable expense) from a tool supply store (harbor freight for example) or have a local machine shop measure the current bore size and compare that to the specification in the service manual.

A downloadable service manual is available in the "general support" section of this forum free for download as a PDF. It has ALL of the specifications for your quad.

Good luck and report back your findings!
 
Are you sure it wasn't just the normal 2 stroke sound?

this is my second blaster now and 2 of my friends also have blasters and it deff has a more distinct clicking noise. Its not terrible and the quad still runs pretty strong but the sound is noticable.

Thanks everyone for all your help. Ill make sure to keep u guys updated on the progress. i plan on putting some money into the quad so hopefully there will b alot to come. Heres some pictures for now. Its basically stock rit now accept for a set of nerf bars and i built a sturdier wheelie bar which i put on since these photos..
 

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Maybe pull clutch cover and check things out. Especially counter balance gear/ bearing. Rivets on gear can go bad. It ain't pretty if it lets go. Ask me how I know X(:o
 
no mods at all yet. once its in solid running condition i plan on adding a few things.

ill pull the cover and check that out. im startin to run outta ideas cause as of now everythinghas been lookin good.

iv noticed another prob now with this quad. the headlights and tailights dont work. i checked the bubs and they look good. traced the wires and tthey all look fresh and un tampered with. any thought to wut would cause this problem?
 
no mods at all yet. once its in solid running condition i plan on adding a few things.

ill pull the cover and check that out. im startin to run outta ideas cause as of now everythinghas been lookin good.

iv noticed another prob now with this quad. the headlights and tailights dont work. i checked the bubs and they look good. traced the wires and tthey all look fresh and un tampered with. any thought to wut would cause this problem?

The most common problem with the lighting system is a switch failure. The lighting coil produces 7-34VAC (idle to full throttle) and the voltage regulator (the silver square under the hood with one blue wire) acts as a dead short to anything over 14VAC. The power then feeds up and into the handlebar switch. From there it feeds back down into the bulbs and back to ground. The entire process involves a handful of wires and fairly hardy components.

The other thing to check is the continuity of the lighting coil itself. The service manual can step you through this troubleshooting procedure and give you the exact specification for the resistance of that unit.

A downloadable service manual is linked under the "general support" section of this forum.