Hello fellow riders...yes I am a noob on this forum. I've searched high n low fir answers but since I love my blaster, I joined the forum. Well here it goes...my blaster is stock motor w/ proper tuned carb for a b1 exhaust. Just peiced it together and was ridin and my silencer came detached...tried taping it but the whole thing fell off....continued ridin cuz I was so far from home and got it back. I put my fmf silencer on and fired it right up and went back out to find the lost one. When I was ridin up a hill the quad just bogged out on me. It wouldn't kick over. I tried push startin it down the hill and it wants to but it sounds bogged. Decided to tow start and when I put it in gear, and hit the throttle, it remains boggy sounding and the throttle acts like it working but just real low. So now it wont start at all.I've cleaned the carb and checked the reeds. Put toomey back on. Nuthin is gettin it to work. It was runnin fine till I lost that silencer. But I put the fmf on and it still ran...then died.please help
need help...from good to bad
- Thread starter bg-royaltz
- Start date
It sounds an awful lot trash has stopped up the carburetor. A silencer does lend back pressure and riding without one for extended distances isn't recommended (partly because of the comfort levels inside your helmet! LOL!) but should cause your engine to stop running.
We'll go with the standard responses here. Do a compression and leak down test and report back.
We'll go with the standard responses here. Do a compression and leak down test and report back.
Its a 310 jet. Didn't change the spark plug. Its an 04. My buddy says I fried the rings but it ran after I threw the fmf silencer back on....it died out a lil while later...oh and found out there was no air filter...jus holes in the cover that bolts over the filter
I would get an air filter asap. You can get away with it in winter but never summer too much dust in the air. do a compression test like already stated. If it's rings or piston then you'll know right away and could be because the time it took you to change silencer the engine had cooled down to be able to start again.
I have a new vitos filter...compression test is next. I will post back my results. Much appreciation guys...glad I joined.
For ALL to learn, no filter = BAD 
I wouldn't even run no filter in winter, it will keep snow dust out. They have filters on sno-mos I:I
Hope you didn't FUBAR your engine with no filter X(
I wouldn't even run no filter in winter, it will keep snow dust out. They have filters on sno-mos I:IHope you didn't FUBAR your engine with no filter X(
Ok....so there is no compression....should I just take the motor out and seperate the bottom n top and look for anything specific
do u feel resistance in the kicker when u kick it or can u do it with ur pinky? have u checked the reeds?
Ok...I took the motor out. Removed head and found that the piston ring where the split in it is has dug itself into the piston. 2nd is that since I had no friggin air filter it looks a lil dirty in the crankcase. The cylinder in the head doesn't look scoured or anything. A very very minute grove I can feel at the very very top of the cylinder where the top sparkplug case bolts. The piston has no I.d. marks on the top so I assume it's stock. Is it as easy as buyin a piston/ring/gasket set and installing. How can I clean the bottom end. I would think the head is fine.
pictures pictures pictures.
With no compression at all, I would guess that your bore was worn above the specifications. You probably need to have it bored to the next oversize.
With no compression at all, I would guess that your bore was worn above the specifications. You probably need to have it bored to the next oversize.
Thought id add this: I have a b1 toomey exhaust. Vitos air filter and a ported air box lid thing with these vents. Stock carb that's jetted for the toomey as per toomeys install. Stock sprockets and swinger. I have a 4+ swinger and extended axle with a 400ex rear shock that will be installed after the motor is fixed. I do alot of trail ridin but would like the ability to tear up some silt hills. Im 6'2" and weigh 180lbs. I wanted to add these details so if u have any suggestions as to what I should/can do to help my riding experience. Also keep in mind that this build is on a slight budget
The"no compression" quote was in reference to as I kicked it, I almost snapped my heelguard n peg off.....lol. so I didn't run an actual compression test knowing that it was an internal problem and immediately open the motor up to have a look
Do you have it apart still, can you check the ring end gap?
Take a ring off the piston, stick the ring in the cylinder, push it with the piston to square it up in the hole, and take a picture of that for us, if you could.
Thats a good way to tell how much its worn out! If it was built right
Always a good idea to take pictures of everything so you can look at it again and again
I:I
Take a ring off the piston, stick the ring in the cylinder, push it with the piston to square it up in the hole, and take a picture of that for us, if you could.
Thats a good way to tell how much its worn out! If it was built right
Always a good idea to take pictures of everything so you can look at it again and again
I:I
Well im unable to check that cuz its at my buddys garage. Sorry. The lower piston ring, the one end if it, has fused itself down into the piston off the groove. The walls of the cylinder itself aren't grooved, burned, ribbed, nuthin. It is real smooth and there is no evidence of any metal shavings of anykind. Minus the dirt debris in the crankcase, it looks and feels fine. I am unsure if debris,due to no filter, could have caused this problem or if its cuz the silenced fell off and I was wide open ridin caused a buildup of heat that made the ring do this. I am hoping I can just slap a std. piston rebuild kit in it and go. I only assume this cuz of my visual inspection of the cylinder and finding only this ring being the way it is
I think there may be more to it than just replacing the piston stuff,,,
One of your rings is welded to the piston? so youll need a new ringset and im pretty sure you dont put new rings in a already broke in cylinder if its all shinny and smooth
You could and it would run maybe but sounds like youll be spending money on a piston and rings mandatory and wrist pin and bearing (good idea as this is a matched set of components that wear out together)
when you say "piston kit" are you saying piston,rings,wrist pin & bearing and getting the bore honed or do you thing you can just use a old ring and a new ring and a piston?
One of your rings is welded to the piston? so youll need a new ringset and im pretty sure you dont put new rings in a already broke in cylinder if its all shinny and smooth
You could and it would run maybe but sounds like youll be spending money on a piston and rings mandatory and wrist pin and bearing (good idea as this is a matched set of components that wear out together)
when you say "piston kit" are you saying piston,rings,wrist pin & bearing and getting the bore honed or do you thing you can just use a old ring and a new ring and a piston?
piston kit.... piston, rings, wrist pin, and circlips. Some have the upper bearing, some don't.
Measure the current bore size using an appropriate measuring device and determine if the standard piston will have the proper piston to cylinder clearance. If not, you will need to have it overbored and purchase the piston kit for the oversize.
Measure the current bore size using an appropriate measuring device and determine if the standard piston will have the proper piston to cylinder clearance. If not, you will need to have it overbored and purchase the piston kit for the oversize.
Im hoping that I don't need the hone and buy the "kit" which includes everything u stated above. Assuming the cylinder is intact, wouldn't the standard sized piston work fine.
