need help...from good to bad
- Thread starter bg-royaltz
- Start date
The standard piston kit will work ONLY if the cylinder is the correct size to fit it. Simply assuming that because it had nothing stamped on top of the piston, it's STD is kind of dangerous as well. You NEED to measure the current bore size and then determine what to order. The bore can be tapered .008" and you won't be able to see it with the naked eye but your next post will be, "Brand X pistons suck! Mine broke an intake skirt off and destroyed my engine.
Pistons kits can be had for right around $100, bore job should be right at $50. DO NOT skimp on this or you'll be buying a new engine later and complaining about how expensive they are....
Pistons kits can be had for right around $100, bore job should be right at $50. DO NOT skimp on this or you'll be buying a new engine later and complaining about how expensive they are....
Im not tryin to cut corners im just tryin to fix this as fast n cheap as possible. If the kit is going to be "too small?" due to the prior wear on the cylinder wall, it is inevitable that I will need a hone job and bigger piston huh? So should I wing it or is that not advisable. If I can't I may as well jus go big or go home n have a big bore done then. Wwyd? Cost and downtime is a factor but if its gotta go to a machine shop then im already spending more than I wanted.
It's a $50 bore job or a $500 big bore kit? How are they equal exactly? It's inevitable that all wear will eventually need to be overbored and a new piston fitted. That may or may not be the case for your engine but you need to measure it to make sure... Just not having any scratches does not mean your bore is OK for another go 'round.
My local machine shop can turn a bore job out in two days. If they have to order the piston it's about a week long job...
My local machine shop can turn a bore job out in two days. If they have to order the piston it's about a week long job...
Sicividude, ur post is what I did and did not want to hear.....lol. So my best bet is to drop it off at the shop, let them measure and determine what size rebuild kit to buy. But with that said, what would be my best bet? Since its gonna b at a shop, what can I ask them to do to improve performance in a relatively cheap manner. Can I buy bigger n better piston n have the head worked to compensate without doing the bottom end. And with the bottom end being dirty should I give it to someone to clean and inspect?
You can clean and inspect the bottom end yourself but be very realistic about what you find. The first thing to do is to wash out the bottom end with premix gasoline. It won't hurt the seals, will break down any crud down in there, is thin enough to pour back out easily, and the oil will leave a thin coating on the bearing surfaces. You need to flush the bottom end at LEAST twice and inspect what comes out the second time to determine if a third is needed.
The trick to the bottom end isn't the look... it's the sound. If you roll the crank over slowly, you shouldn't hear any clacking noise. If you turn it over fast, you shouldn't her any knocking. There are also specs for the big end side to side, wobble, and up and down. Basically, the rod shouldn't be able to move side to side any more than .023" and no up and down. Those are the two you REALLY need to worry about...
Specify a wiseco piston for the rebuild in the next available rebore size. Wiseco uses a different manufacturing process which results in a piston which is less likely to crumble and more likely to stay in one piece if this happens again.. Boring the engine only uses up future lives. Boring doesn't increase the engine power output for anything at all. What you are looking for is porting. Porting involves changing the port timing and area to improve power output. It's a moderately involved process which involves special tooling. Generally a port job runs about $150 and in order to maximize the output, it should also include getting the head modified (an additional $60-$90 depending on who does it).
The trick to the bottom end isn't the look... it's the sound. If you roll the crank over slowly, you shouldn't hear any clacking noise. If you turn it over fast, you shouldn't her any knocking. There are also specs for the big end side to side, wobble, and up and down. Basically, the rod shouldn't be able to move side to side any more than .023" and no up and down. Those are the two you REALLY need to worry about...
Specify a wiseco piston for the rebuild in the next available rebore size. Wiseco uses a different manufacturing process which results in a piston which is less likely to crumble and more likely to stay in one piece if this happens again.. Boring the engine only uses up future lives. Boring doesn't increase the engine power output for anything at all. What you are looking for is porting. Porting involves changing the port timing and area to improve power output. It's a moderately involved process which involves special tooling. Generally a port job runs about $150 and in order to maximize the output, it should also include getting the head modified (an additional $60-$90 depending on who does it).
Thank u dude. I will have him tell me the next available size and go with the wiseco setup and I will inspect the bottom end and clean as u described. One thing tho...what may of caused this to happen. I described what happened externally but was it a combo of those that caused it. I don't want to go through it again. At least not for a little while.
It sounds like a combination of all of the factors but you may want to clean out your carburetor to make sure you did not have a "lean condition" which cause the piston to gouge.
If you feel a grove at the top of the cylinder it's going to have to be bored out for shure you can call any powersports shop and there going to tell you the same thing. that means having a pro take the sleve out and bore it the next size over a .010 and buying a new sleve that fits and a set of $10 rings if every thing else is reuseable
For ALL to learn, no filter = BADI wouldn't even run no filter in winter, it will keep snow dust out. They have filters on sno-mos I:I
Hope you didn't FUBAR your engine with no filter X(
Sometimes I Hate when I'm right.
If your crank isn't fubared you'll be lucky. Running no silencer had nothing to do with this.
