I thinking about using a namura piston. was wondering if anyone has used them if they are good brand or just spend the money a get a wiseco piston thanks for help guys
Namura pistons
- Thread starter mac_44_2010
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You will get a mixed review vs the two some say go forged some will say go cast. Me go with what's better on your wallet .
I disagree!
I've always ran cast pistons with ZERO issues! and...I beat the crap out of my engines! The important part is to properly set up the piston to cylinder clearance,so you will not get any piston slap. The cast pistins require less clearance,because they don't swell and change shape as much as a forged piston as they heat up,so they sit right at .0015 clearance,or a smidgen more,and the forged piston requires more clearance because...well its forged,...meaning that the material its made of is much denser,and compressed,because of the forging process. A forged piston requires a bit more clearance depending on how its to be used. I set up clearance with forged pistons at .0025 to .003.
Both "Cast" and "Forged" pistons will serve you well. The forged piston will handle "detonation" easier than a cast,BUT...if you are set up properly and jetted correctly (which you should be) you will not have an issue with "detonation". The forged piston will require a religious warm up before riding,wich is not hard to do,because you can get a cold seize if your not careful. The cast piston is much more forgiving with short warm ups.
I've ran both,but prefer a cast piston. The Namura will serve you well.
I've had forged pistons swell up and get scuffed in a properly clearanced bore when it got hot,but not with a cast piston. Go figure. That was running them both hard in 105 to 106 degree weather under very heavy load.
I believe that if you do your part,either design will work well.
By the way...
The blaster wiseco "Pro lite" forged piston and a cast piston weigh the same.
Here's some pictures of failed pistons. Bothe forged and cast. I bet I could contribute the carnage to either ....
#1 improper jetting (too lean)
#2 Incorrect piston clearance
#3 DETONATION (too lean,too much spark advance,or both)
#4 wrong fuel to oil ratio (premix)
#5 Over heating combined with too lean of jetting
#6 High compression with poor quality fuel (DETONATION)
#7 or...a "combo plate" of more than one of the above.
FORGED PISTON...
CAST PISTON
FORGED PISTON
CAST PISTON
FORGED PISTON
If you do your part,I believe either choice will serve you well.
Rememeber the"stock" blaster that did the "Paris to Dakar" rally? That was 6,000 miles on a cast piston AND oil injection,and I GUARANTEE that he beat the sh*t out of that engine. Your there to WIN your class!
READ IT HERE >>>http://www.blasterforum.com/off-topic-7/truth-about-oil-injection-22062/
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From one Mac to another go wiseco. I asked the same question because I wanted to be cheap. Long story short I went with a wiseco kit with all the gaskets. This might help http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/looking-namura-piston-ebay-49732/
I have used both, currently using a Namura in one of my KTM's, no problems.
Wiseco is crack resistant but scuff prone. On the Blaster, biggest danger is a broken skirt if the piston clearance is too large.
The darn Wiseco needs a careful warm up or you will scuff it. Here are my piston picts:
Cast on the left, broken skirt (too much clearance) Wiseco on right (4 corner seize, too hot too fast)
Notice the rings are stuck in the Wiseco. This is typical. It gets hot and smears.
The aluminum gets smeared all over the bore surface too.
The cast has high silicon which helps to minimize the smearing (and heat expansion).
Good shot of a typical forged piston 4 corner seize on the right.
I run cast pistons in my KTMs after a heat seized Wiseco set me on my butt at 60mph.
Apparently a slow and careful mile is not enough of a warm up.
I was solving a problem I did not have when I installed the Wiseco.
A cast piston will live forever in a KTM.
So how do you avoid breaking a skirt on the Blaster?
Make sure your piston clearance is right, and not too loose.
How do you avoid scuffing and smearing? Run a cast piston...
Wiseco is great if you are running a turbo or nitrous, but are a pain in the butt for everyday running.
Steve
Wiseco is crack resistant but scuff prone. On the Blaster, biggest danger is a broken skirt if the piston clearance is too large.
The darn Wiseco needs a careful warm up or you will scuff it. Here are my piston picts:
Cast on the left, broken skirt (too much clearance) Wiseco on right (4 corner seize, too hot too fast)
Notice the rings are stuck in the Wiseco. This is typical. It gets hot and smears.
The aluminum gets smeared all over the bore surface too.
The cast has high silicon which helps to minimize the smearing (and heat expansion).
Good shot of a typical forged piston 4 corner seize on the right.
I run cast pistons in my KTMs after a heat seized Wiseco set me on my butt at 60mph.
Apparently a slow and careful mile is not enough of a warm up.
I was solving a problem I did not have when I installed the Wiseco.
A cast piston will live forever in a KTM.
So how do you avoid breaking a skirt on the Blaster?
Make sure your piston clearance is right, and not too loose.
How do you avoid scuffing and smearing? Run a cast piston...
Wiseco is great if you are running a turbo or nitrous, but are a pain in the butt for everyday running.
Steve
When i got my quad tuned the guys that tuned it used to race blasters and they said the broke the tops off cast pistons and that wisco was the way to go... after seeing this im stuck in the middle I had a cast piston (pro x) and when i went to change the piston after 6 races there was a crack on it and it was running a tat rich if anything. I ran a wisco and it would have been perfect at the 6 race mark but one day i opened the engine and saw a little dip in the skirt and me and my dad foolishly thought we could rebore it after the next race too races later it jammed because the sleeve gave in. The cylinder was old and had a hard live before i even got it so this was sorta coming anyway or was it? Should i get an other wisco or should i use what my engine builder sells witch is pro x?
This is almost like the rt bend VS lt bend debate. Both pistons have advantages and dis advantages. Biggest thing is PROPER care/maintenance AND PROPER cylinder to piston clearance. You HAVE to have the piston BEFORE you bore it, can't just say 66.75 bore. What if your new piston is .0005 under OR over size (within factory tolerance) you're either to tight or to loose. And IMHO, unless you're less than half the wear tolerance, spend the 50-55 $ and bore it and start out fresh. AND ALWAYS use new circlips (ask me how I know this also)
WHOA! Blasterkiidirl, that is some hard to read!
Put some spaces and periods in there man!
I agree totally with Larry's post above.
Your story here is proof of what we have been saying.
The Wiseco did not solve the worn bore problem.
If the bore was good the cast piston would have been fine.
And like we've been telling you, the Wiseco is prone to seizing.
Yes, I'd follow your builder's lead and use what he prefers to use.
Steve
So what I'm getting from every one is basicly is to make sure I have the right clearance. Witch im going to. Im going too get a over size piston and take it and the jug to a machine shop and have them bore it to size.
Agreed ^^, there are still plenty of "shops" out there who don't really know what they're doing.
I havnt got it apart yet but yes I will measures bore lol to find out what size piston I will need
Not only measured for "size" it has to be measured for out of round and taper to determine if boring is necessary and what size to bore to.
Just so I know cuz im not complety for sure what does it mean champhering the pots just so I know lol
