my $600 blaster need build advise

sr5bidder

sr5bidder

New Member
Dec 11, 2009
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Marietta, Ga
well my $600 blaster was not such a good deal, yes it runs but I really got some time in the garage with it

Compression test revieled 3-4 kicks to get to 120psi (cold engine)

Crank: upon grabing the flywheel I can move it up and down and side to side (stupid me the cover was off when I was looking to buy it and I didn't shake it around)

Base gasket is RTV sealant

So I'm not even going to ride it, have drained the oil and added trans fluid type F I will start it and warm it up to check compression when warm then drain and remove the clutch side cover the flywheel and then the clutch basket then remove the engine (I find it much easier to do these items with the engine in frame and chain still on)

So I need advise on parts selection like rebuild stock crank or ????
and head milling

what i want is torque I will be riding in some rocky technical trails, steep hills and tight muddy woods.

what is the best way to approach this is there a blaster specailist as far as the porting/ head mods?
 
When you do your comp test. Hold the throttle open and kick it til the guage stops. 3-4 kicks to get to 120 psi doesn't sound that bad.
If you need to replace your crank, I'd suggest a vito's +3mm stroker crank. It'll add more low end torque and you can pick one up for around $170.
Talk to any or all of the engine builders on here (wildcard, flotek, kennedy powersports). All of them know all about blaster engines and anyone of them can help you with mod questions
 
Compression test should be done warm. Hold the throttle wide open and kick it untill the guage stops moving. The actual cranking compression will depend on your elevation, guage used and of course the condition of the top end. Other things that can affect a compression test are pipe, reeds, air temp ect ect. 120's after a few kicks isn't bad at all. I recommend doing the test with a high quality guage like a snap-on or mac tools tester. The tester hose should have a shrader(like in your tires valve stem) valve in the end that threads into your spark plug and select one that has threads as close to the lenght of your spark plug threads as possible. Compression test does little more than give you a good reference to the condition of your top end and reeds. I would be concerned about the RTV base gasket and loose crank. Vito's is currently out of stock on the 3mil cranks, crank labor to rebuild your stocker is$70 plus parts/shipping. I can get you a 4mil hotrods crank for $190 but it will require case trenching to fit. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help you out.

-Brandon
 
maybee the big end bearing is ok, have to split the cases and check it out but I want to track some oil leaks fist and make shure thay are just coming from the seals/cutch cover
 
widcard2

is there any way to get my blaster engine to run like my kdx 200 engine, I know it needs rebuilt but it seems there is no rev to me it seems likethe range is 2000-6000 rpm and my kdx pulls way higher
 
sr5bidder said:
widcard2

is there any way to get my blaster engine to run like my kdx 200 engine, I know it needs rebuilt but it seems there is no rev to me it seems likethe range is 2000-6000 rpm and my kdx pulls way higher
Click to expand...

rebuild it then compare,blasters stock with a pipe only,get 9000 rpm max.
 
I'm searching for parts to get an idea on pricing there seem to be pretty cheap pistons out there any idea of the quality any ones to stay away from?

also is there a shop that has proven performance to send my head off to for moding the squish band/ milling the head?

what carb gives the best prformance, my experience is that the smaller bore carbs help the low end response and bigger bore lets it rev higher but I don't want to get into replacing the pipe . would the stock carb be fine?
 
well I just ordered my wiseco crank kit and pro-x .030 piston my total was $232.01 out the door ( I get discounts from parts unlimited at the local motorcycle tire shop) they will be here on tuesday!!

I need to order a bearing for the counter ballance shaft and a few washers and some new case allignment collars

is there anything else I should take a hard look at now? like are there typical gear problems in the blaster or are the transmissions pretty tough?
 
pick up my wiseco crank kit and pro-x piston and sent my piston/cylinder and head of to my machinist

I got a counter ballance bearing from bearings and drives for half the cost of the stealership, but had to order case dowels, cylinder dowels, lock washersfor the counter ballance and clutch nuts, and right side crank sleeve from the stealership at $32
I'm all set except for a warm day to paint my cases and a new head gasket and base gasket
 
blastercases.jpg

cases painted
 
well I got my cylinder and head back today ran into a few snags... my machinists did a great job on the bore, hone, chamfering fixing the threads in a stud I pionted out...he did not chamfer the bottom of the sleeve to help the rings squish when installing the piston...I got pass this by doing that myself,

So I get the cylinder on the piston and tighten the base bolts, install the head and two studs pulled out of the cylinder... so I took the head back off and taped up the piston hole..I guess I'll wait till next week when he gets back and see if he can install the time-serts with the cylinder on cuz heliciols suck in the app.
 
dude have him do all of the head studs with time serts. i pulled out 4 of the 6 (one had already been helicoiled). check out your exhaust stud holes too.
 
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