motor build..

yes se-r

New Member
Aug 6, 2009
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Long Island, NY
i was thinking today..i want a really fast blaster lol
now that i spent alot on this thing already (about 600 in plus whatever was into the goped i traded for it) i figure i should make it fast. once im done with all the basic stuff to make it safe and functional..im going to start a build

now i dont know much as far as parts go and whatnot so im just gonna throw in what i want and im open for opinions as far as brands and stuff go


big bore (not sure how big, was gonna have a local shop do it)

wiseco piston to match obvisouly

port and polish head (not sure again, something with good mid-top range)

i have a k&n filter already..whatever lol

i guess i would need a bigger carb..34mm? brand unknown

pipe- again not sure i see stuff all over i might just go with whatever i can get a deal on

silencer- does it really matter lol?

gearing...i still dont quite understand gearing. is it like the concept of sizing with rims-bigger rims higher top speed lower accel? something like that if so im not sure still i need some advisement on that

tires- have brand new maxxis razrs in the front, ill prob get those in the rear 20x11x8. or holeshots.. but most likely razrs. id love to cop some itp aluminum rims but i dont know if ill go that far.

and thats about it, anyone have any input or ideas..let me know
 
if you do go with a big bore you will have to buy a new cylinder you cant just bore a stock one out. the most common one is the vito's 240 kit, but other companies make them like trinity and F7 aka airsal cylinder. if you want to get it ported talk to flotek or one of those guys they can give you a better idea of what style of port to go with. most guys who do port work port each cylinder to your needs and will talk to you to help figure out what style port would work best for you. if you decide to go with a big bore kit a bigger carb would help, a 34 pj by keihin would work good but you also have to get a new intake to use it. there are so many pipes out there i.e. LRD, dyno port etc your best bet is to shop around and talk to other people. BTW i have a dyno port mid top pipe and love it!
 
For an easy idea of how gearing works look at it like this-your front sproket shaft spins at "x" rpms in 6th gear,if you want to have a faster top speed you need to get the front and rear sprokets closer in size,on the other hand if you want to accelerate faster you want them farther apart in size....BUT you cannot have it both ways,you will have to settle on a happy medium.Also,if you go up in tire hight then you are affectively raising your gearing,and vis-versa. So with a short tire you will accelerate faster,with a lower top speed,and with a taller tire you have less acceleration but a higher top speed
 
ok heres the way to figure your gearing correctly.. divide the # of teeth on the driven gear (rear sprocket) by the number of teeth on the drive gear (front sprocket)

so in the case of 13/39 gearing you'd divide 39 by 13 and you'd end up with 3.. or 3:1.. the front sprocket rotates 3 times for every 1 rotation of the rear sprocket..

the closer the ratio is to 1:1 the more TOP SPEED the farther from 1:1 you are the more ACCELERATION. in most cases you'll be happier with more acceleration than top speed..

i hope that helps
 
my advice to you is.. go stroker before you go big bore.. first off it's cheaper.. and you can alwasy add a big bore later and have it ported for the stroker. but if you buy the big bore and port it first then decide to go with a stroker setup it's alot more complicated.. i can go into why.. and how added stroke effects port timing if you'd like.. but your better off with a stroker FIRST then a big bore later. or go all out and do them both at once. if you can do the lower end rebuild yourself you looking at a difference of about $200 to go stroker/big bore. you'll be paying to port the big bore anyway...
 
hmm thanks for all the advice ill look into all of it i emailed a few companies and need to shop around..once the weekend comes ill have more time
 
Now with the mid-top pipe is it completely gutless on the bottom end? or does the kick in the mid make up for it? hopefully that question makes sense.

no you still have some bottom end the biggest difference that i noticed with the mid top is it raps up SOOOO fast but yet its still got power in the bottom.
 
my advice to you is.. go stroker before you go big bore.. first off it's cheaper.. and you can alwasy add a big bore later and have it ported for the stroker. but if you buy the big bore and port it first then decide to go with a stroker setup it's alot more complicated.. i can go into why.. and how added stroke effects port timing if you'd like.. but your better off with a stroker FIRST then a big bore later. or go all out and do them both at once. if you can do the lower end rebuild yourself you looking at a difference of about $200 to go stroker/big bore. you'll be paying to port the big bore anyway...

yep ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ the only way that I would recommend going with a big bore first would be if you were already going to have to resleeve your cylinder. but you should also know that some people have had bad luck with big bore sleeves in stock cylinders. i would think that if your work is done by a good builder that it will most likely be fine. a 3mil stock bore stroker with porting can easily produce twice the stock hp and have a wonderfully fat powercurve that will be both fun to ride and reliable as hell.
 
stroker cranks for blasters are CHEAP!! i'm not sure why everybody doesn't have one.
 
im definately getting that stroker kit..the vitos one i found on ebay is 170 free ship...+3mm is that what i want?

but before i get that i want my pipe/silencer..
 
ok this might go under way..
i am trying to sell my carbon fiber hood for my car and if i do..ill have funds for this project.
heres what im doing i made up my mind:

bore out head .020 over.
vitos +3mm stroker kit
wiseco .020 piston
above average port + polishing of head
30mm+ carb havent decided which yet
pipe..somewhere between sheerer or however you spell it, lrd or toomey
vforce3 reeds

and i think i will stop there, i still need rear tires because mine are pretty sh*tty right now..and a few other things like better brakes lol..need to stop before i go fast. haha
 
You sound like you are going the same route i am....been talking to 370 huh?

He knows his stuff when it comes to this fine tuning on a budget...
 
ok im prob going with the shearer pipe..
as far as boring and all that im going .020 over, using wiseco matched piston, trail port and polish job and a 30mm carb
 
ok so im updating this i have it all figured out

bore cylinder .020 over

.020 wiseco piston

flotek port and polish head

k&n air filter with over filter

cpw 28mm carb

looking for exhaust but narrowed it down to shearer, lrd, f7 or powerpros

gearing- 14-40 renthal

tires- brand new maxxis razrs all around front=21x8x10 rear=20x11x8

and thats where i stand, some of the stuff is listed in my sig whether i have it or not. just degreased my engine and packed up the head to be sent out to flotek for the porting boring etc.

woooooo