Mods and up keep (and all my other questions)

Though herp's post is pretty accurate, has it been identified in another post that he really needs a rebuild? Not all engines need to be rebuilt. All 2-strokes need to be leak tested, compression tested, and plug chopped, however. That sits on top of general maintenance.

A bad carb setup on an otherwise perfect engine will convince most that a rebuild is due.
 
Last edited:
the sensor is for the TORS, it can be removed. Depending on what year your blaster is there are two ways to disconnect the whole TORS system. 88-02 has one way and 03-06 another. Search for TORS removal and get rid of it.
 
Incorrect.....There is ABSOLUTELY ZERO power increase from removal of the oil injection system.
No power increase at all, in fact power is lost from going from a 20:1 mix to a 32:1 mix, as less oil bathe the rings therefore they do not seal as well and loose some compression.

When you add oil to the fuel it effectively leans out the AFR, which can be felt as a power increase unless you use larger jetting.

Although power will increase when adding oil without jetting changes, the risk of destructive detonation increases.

So who is correct, Joe or Herp, or I, well actually we all are..

If you pre mix at 32:1 without changing jetting jetting power will increase due to a leaner mix.

If you pre mix at 32:1 and jet for the change of viscosity to the fuel, power will be lost, due to less bathing oil.

If you pre mix to simulate the stock injection rate of about 20:1 and jet accordingly the power will stay the same.

It all boils down to the amount of oil in the mix and the type of oil you choose to run.

Oils ain't just oils, ratios ain't just ratios.

The above is the reason I mix at 25:1, with an oil with a super film strength.
 
Last edited:
is this 7 or 8 threads now? jeez

get your engine to run good before you go on modding it.

order a tusk flywheel puller, a tusk flywheel holder and a tusk engine oil seal kit
www.rockymountainatvmc.com has everything you need

order a leak down tester from member Awk08 (or you can build your own, DIY in the DIY section)

leak test before you tear down. then replace the crank seals. pretty easy, except they are hard to pull out, at least mine were.

once you get those seals in, you can leak test again. then pull the topend off

post some CLEAR pictures of your bore (cylinder) so we can judge if scratches are bad enough to need a bore.
we cannot know if your bore is out of round, so maybe try going to your local shop and ask them to measure it

I suggest you order a new piston and rings and get it bored either way. but you need to know the size first. ask the shop what size they recommend or what size the cylinder is itself. order a piston the next size up and give the shop the cylinder and new piston (they need piston to match size)

order new OEM or Cometic base and head gaskets for the cylinder

if you got the $$ ($60 for the bore, ~$120 for piston and shipping) i say send your cylinder and head straight to KOR and he will measure and order you the right size piston. bore hone and send back with gaskets if you ask for them (which you should)

if you have enough to spend on the KOR work on the top end, its only $60 to get a head machined. the head will give you a great power increase for being only $60
Tell him you want to run 91 octane and he will set the squish for you to make that possible.

i know you dont want to mix fuel, but its fairly simple and easy to do. and you can feel the difference from injection and pre-mix (you dont need to buy a block off kit, can be done for about $1 just buying a small cap for the carby)

for a better ride, you can find a pair of used front works for about $200 (dont pay more)
and about $50 for a 400ex rear shock and $25(? not sure, dont take my word) for the bushings to run it

-Herp
I did the leak test its good and it idles now how much oil should the injector line put out ?
 
What is the piston and ring size or just stock ring size ? And what is the best injector oil to run in it any idea why my blaster would cut out in 2nd a little past half throttle can it hurt it with out baffle and with out are box cover were would be the best place on line to buy piston and rings my money is limited so i cant spend a whole lot
 
probably answered in your other 2 threads about piston size...

oil is preference

stock piston size is 66mm so you would be buying rings for 66mm piston (ebay. rockymountain. etc.)

which baffle? exhaust or in the carby?

you need to clean your carb out. a plugged jet is probably the cutting out

you need to re-jet to take off the air box cover
 
probably answered in your other 2 threads about piston size...

oil is preference

stock piston size is 66mm so you would be buying rings for 66mm piston (ebay. rockymountain. etc.)

which baffle? exhaust or in the carby?

you need to clean your carb out. a plugged jet is probably the cutting out

you need to re-jet to take off the air box cover
Exhaust like the tip
 
What is the piston and ring size or just stock ring size ?

What is the best injector oil to run in it.

Any idea why my blaster would cut out in 2nd a little past half throttle.

Can it hurt it with out baffle and with out are box cover.

Where would be the best place on line to buy piston and rings my money is limited so i cant spend a whole lot

For ease of understanding, please try to break up your questions as I have done for you above.

There is no such thing as best injector oil, you choose one to suit your style of riding.

Do not use Weed whacker/mower/chainsaw or outboard oil.

You could be cutting out at a little past half throttle for numerous reasons, dirty carb, wrong needle setting, air leak, dirty air filter, flooding ect.

If you run a stock pipe it likes to have the muffler on.

Taking the air box lid off without increasing the main jet will cook the engine.

eBay sometimes come up with some cheap deals, but to be sure of the best deal and after service KOR would be my choice, at least you will know that you will be looked after.
 
/\ i think so, awk prolly did it for us..

Still not using the search button i see....

Also u leak tested? Did u have one over nighted to you bc last night u didnt even have a clue what it ment... Very important, not a compression test which is also important

Please give us a pic of ur results on leak test guage n comp. Test guage...

If u "think" u need a top end, stop riding it and dont bother getting it tuned in on a bad top end.

U cant ASSume u have a stock bore, it may be bored over be lfore, out of round, warped top surface lapping, scratched, pitted, ect. ect.

Go to store n ask clerk ur oil question, u have to be there anyway to buy it. Or as i said before, PM me n i can send u my near new bottle

I wouldnt pop the air lid unless ur going to rejet or ull be getting another top end soon.

YOUR BEST SITUATION is to LEAVE this poor machine ALONE lol