Mods and up keep (and all my other questions)
- Thread starter Austin kemp
- Start date
Sorry sir im just trying to get my stuff going good so it doesn't brake down and how much do u want can u even charge on here i would be glad to donate a little but i dont have much thats why i came to this site so that i can learn to fix my stuff
Ok thanks i stopped my order because i hate mixing gas and i think it is working but not sure
Easy to change but you need a flywheel puller.
Leak test it first before you buy then we can talk you through it.
Leak test it first before you buy then we can talk you through it.
It will work while giving it a little gas, but why not try to get it to idle first. The idle adjustment is on top of the TORS unit under the seat. It is the big thumb screw with the slot in it between the gas tank and the air box.
15 more posts, pay the supporting members fee and BF will be your oyster!
I was only joshing when I said I would bill you.
Take advice limit your questions to one thread to save us chasing you all over the place.
I was only joshing when I said I would bill you.
Take advice limit your questions to one thread to save us chasing you all over the place.
I
turned it all the way and it is a little better but no idle i dont have to give it as much gas i took the top off of the throtle on the handle bars and there is a sensor and as soon as it leaves the sensor its fun even if the cable doesnt move can i disconnect sensor ?
I have a 2000 yamaha blaster what are some mods i should do ? Like im more into trail then speed i used to race dirtbikes so im used to speed but i want it to do a little better on trail i idea how many teeth for the sproket for front and back i should get so that it does better also how do u measure your piston does anyone know the measurements im going to order everything off line and need to know what size the piston and rings are also how do u clean a carb ? And what type of air filter should i get and does anyone know the best what to get it to idle my idles fine if u barley move the throttle. I took the top off the throttle on the handlebars and i seen that there was a sensor and as soon as it moved from the sensor it was fine does anyone know if i can disconnect it ? What type of injector oil do u use in yours i was looking at some decal kits and I'm getting one but what i. Most interested in is a wheelie bar does anyone know were to get one ? Thanks 
you want a wheelie bar? yet want to do trails? lol kinda contradicting... many many question young one! you can search threw the forum and find every single answer for the 20 dif forum post your keep putting up that in everone you ask the same questing lol.. you will get great help here but try looking up most of your questions first or making just ONE posting and running everything threw that one it will make it easier for all of us to follow or at least have it all bundled. but I am sure a lot of ppl are going to be getting tired of repeating themselves so search first, lots of pics and vids on here with step by step details of what and how to do.
as far as something simple, take your front wheels off and literally flip them so the valve stems point in, will make your front wider for the trails, forget the wheelie bar.... get good at balancing or get a longer grab bar so you don't totally flip back, uni is an affordable all around decent air filter, if you need a piston you most likely need a bore up or at least a hone and going by your questions on the easy stuff like carb cleaning and idle adjustment id def leave it to the pros to bore you up and throw a new one on bc they can check the connecting rod, head lap (if it has a warped gap), and all the other obvious probs in there while its open or youll just be buying new rings every week, I already went threw this with another kid who I kept physically showing him and his dad that I can stick my razor blade right between the head and cylinder n they insisted to keep buying rings and doubleing gaskets and using silicone, finally had to get a whole new bottom and top end. also as far as injector oil I have a whole bottle of really good stuff I used a little bit out of it before I switched, big bottle, pm me if interested on that, I wouldn't mess with the sensor but idle can be adjusted from the screw on that brick of a T.O.R.S. follow your throttle cable down to it, and your going to want to buy a leak tester if your doing a top end and cleaning the carb
as far as something simple, take your front wheels off and literally flip them so the valve stems point in, will make your front wider for the trails, forget the wheelie bar.... get good at balancing or get a longer grab bar so you don't totally flip back, uni is an affordable all around decent air filter, if you need a piston you most likely need a bore up or at least a hone and going by your questions on the easy stuff like carb cleaning and idle adjustment id def leave it to the pros to bore you up and throw a new one on bc they can check the connecting rod, head lap (if it has a warped gap), and all the other obvious probs in there while its open or youll just be buying new rings every week, I already went threw this with another kid who I kept physically showing him and his dad that I can stick my razor blade right between the head and cylinder n they insisted to keep buying rings and doubleing gaskets and using silicone, finally had to get a whole new bottom and top end. also as far as injector oil I have a whole bottle of really good stuff I used a little bit out of it before I switched, big bottle, pm me if interested on that, I wouldn't mess with the sensor but idle can be adjusted from the screw on that brick of a T.O.R.S. follow your throttle cable down to it, and your going to want to buy a leak tester if your doing a top end and cleaning the carb
you need to get you blasty to run and idle correctly before you start looking for more power. and not trying to be rude but all your questions can be answered by a simple Google search.and you also need to get a compression and leak tester
The very first thing that you should do is perform a leak test to see if the engine is air tight.
Most problems stem from a lean mix.
The second thing you could do is to take a breath when typing, and put each topic in a separate paragraph.
If it passes a leak test, do a compression test, if over 100psi continue.
Clean the carb, set the float level, adjust the idle, then plug chop to see if your jetting is correct.
Now you are ready to ask more questions.
Most problems stem from a lean mix.
The second thing you could do is to take a breath when typing, and put each topic in a separate paragraph.
If it passes a leak test, do a compression test, if over 100psi continue.
Clean the carb, set the float level, adjust the idle, then plug chop to see if your jetting is correct.
Now you are ready to ask more questions.
if you ever roll the quad, make sure you bleed the oil line so no bubbles are present and cause harm to the engine
is this 7 or 8 threads now? jeez
get your engine to run good before you go on modding it.
order a tusk flywheel puller, a tusk flywheel holder and a tusk engine oil seal kit
www.rockymountainatvmc.com has everything you need
order a leak down tester from member Awk08 (or you can build your own, DIY in the DIY section)
leak test before you tear down. then replace the crank seals. pretty easy, except they are hard to pull out, at least mine were.
once you get those seals in, you can leak test again. then pull the topend off
post some CLEAR pictures of your bore (cylinder) so we can judge if scratches are bad enough to need a bore.
we cannot know if your bore is out of round, so maybe try going to your local shop and ask them to measure it
I suggest you order a new piston and rings and get it bored either way. but you need to know the size first. ask the shop what size they recommend or what size the cylinder is itself. order a piston the next size up and give the shop the cylinder and new piston (they need piston to match size)
order new OEM or Cometic base and head gaskets for the cylinder
if you got the $$ ($60 for the bore, ~$120 for piston and shipping) i say send your cylinder and head straight to KOR and he will measure and order you the right size piston. bore hone and send back with gaskets if you ask for them (which you should)
if you have enough to spend on the KOR work on the top end, its only $60 to get a head machined. the head will give you a great power increase for being only $60
Tell him you want to run 91 octane and he will set the squish for you to make that possible.
i know you dont want to mix fuel, but its fairly simple and easy to do. and you can feel the difference from injection and pre-mix (you dont need to buy a block off kit, can be done for about $1 just buying a small cap for the carby)
for a better ride, you can find a pair of used front works for about $200 (dont pay more)
and about $50 for a 400ex rear shock and $25(? not sure, dont take my word) for the bushings to run it
-Herp
get your engine to run good before you go on modding it.
order a tusk flywheel puller, a tusk flywheel holder and a tusk engine oil seal kit
www.rockymountainatvmc.com has everything you need
order a leak down tester from member Awk08 (or you can build your own, DIY in the DIY section)
leak test before you tear down. then replace the crank seals. pretty easy, except they are hard to pull out, at least mine were.
once you get those seals in, you can leak test again. then pull the topend off
post some CLEAR pictures of your bore (cylinder) so we can judge if scratches are bad enough to need a bore.
we cannot know if your bore is out of round, so maybe try going to your local shop and ask them to measure it
I suggest you order a new piston and rings and get it bored either way. but you need to know the size first. ask the shop what size they recommend or what size the cylinder is itself. order a piston the next size up and give the shop the cylinder and new piston (they need piston to match size)
order new OEM or Cometic base and head gaskets for the cylinder
if you got the $$ ($60 for the bore, ~$120 for piston and shipping) i say send your cylinder and head straight to KOR and he will measure and order you the right size piston. bore hone and send back with gaskets if you ask for them (which you should)
if you have enough to spend on the KOR work on the top end, its only $60 to get a head machined. the head will give you a great power increase for being only $60
Tell him you want to run 91 octane and he will set the squish for you to make that possible.
i know you dont want to mix fuel, but its fairly simple and easy to do. and you can feel the difference from injection and pre-mix (you dont need to buy a block off kit, can be done for about $1 just buying a small cap for the carby)
for a better ride, you can find a pair of used front works for about $200 (dont pay more)
and about $50 for a 400ex rear shock and $25(? not sure, dont take my word) for the bushings to run it
-Herp
