milling my head???

Red&BlackAttack

New Member
Feb 2, 2012
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Virginia
hey guys, i'm looking at milling the head on my 03 blaster. i've seen the thread on here about how much you can mill and run what type of fuel. my ? is if i mill .040 off and run cam2 leaded race gas am i going to be fine? what i have done to my blaster is a pro circuit platinum 2 pipe with the pro circuit factory 304 sound silencer, K&N air filter with no lid, and a 280 main, stock pilot. do you think i should do the head milling that much with that race gas with my set up or should i only mill .030 off and run 93 oct pump gas???
 
I can't say how much to take off but you also should redesign the bowl too! If you can afford to run race gas all the time, I say do it!

I'd Pm Ken Oconner, I'm certain he would know the answer!

He did tell me what was good but i do not remember!
 
now i need to go find my micrometer and digi caliper lol. i dont remember how far you can go in thoulsands , but i know you can take the mating surface of the dome all the way flat with the dome, i believe its removing 2-4mm or a 16th-32nd of a inch. i think.
dont even mess with pump gas or leaded plane fuel, run 110 octane most atv shops sell it. its expensive, but the slight increase of power and resistance to detnotation are worth it.
 
i've called and no one really close carrys the 110 octane gas. and i don't really want it to be a pain every time i need to fill up. i just want better performance. why would you say don't run pump gas? even with only milling .030? i just don't wanna do this and cause it to slowly destroy my engine....
 
Question: How Much do I mill my head?

Answer:
Base UCCR 9.84:1 = 135 psi = 22.06 cc's
-.010" off = 10.20:1 = 139 psi = 21.20 cc's
-.020" off = 10.58:1 = 144 psi = 20.35 cc's
-.030" off = 11:10:1 = 150 psi = 19.49 cc's
-.040" off = 11.47:1 = 156 psi = 18.65 cc's
-.050" off = 11.98:1 = 162 psi = 17.77 cc's

Question: If I mill my head, will it require me to run a higher octane gas?

Answer: Yes, Milling the head raises the compression. The more compression you have, the higher octane gas you will need to run. Anything over .035" will require race gas. .035" and below you'll be safe with 92-94 Octane Gas.


this is from another thread here on the forum, so i take this to be true. i don't have a gauge at this point to check it on my own.
 
because even on a stock motor youll see and feel an improvement with 110. i got a few hundred more rpms and some power running 110 on a stock blaster motor. ive been running 110 for years, the first thing i ran it in was a 2004 kdx50. i got 10mph more top speed out of it and it rev to the moon. i run it in 4 strokes too, used to make my lil bros tao tao 250 honda clone fly compared to the 89ethanol.
 
I think thats a mathematical guide line that doesn't factor in things such as wear or aftermarket parts. One comapnies piston make have a slightly smaller or larger dome or one head or base gasket may be thicker or thinner. If he has a higher compression piston, thinner gaskets a .030" cut could give him much higher pressure than the listed figures. The chart is correct "on paper" but he should know where he's at now before he starts cutting on his head.

Question: How Much do I mill my head?

Answer:
Base UCCR 9.84:1 = 135 psi = 22.06 cc's
-.010" off = 10.20:1 = 139 psi = 21.20 cc's
-.020" off = 10.58:1 = 144 psi = 20.35 cc's
I:I-.030" off = 11:10:1 = 150 psi = 19.49 cc's
-.040" off = 11.47:1 = 156 psi = 18.65 cc's
-.050" off = 11.98:1 = 162 psi = 17.77 cc's

Question: If I mill my head, will it require me to run a higher octane gas?

Answer: Yes, Milling the head raises the compression. The more compression you have, the higher octane gas you will need to run. Anything over .035" will require race gas. .035" and below you'll be safe with 92-94 Octane Gas.


this is from another thread here on the forum, so i take this to be true. i don't have a gauge at this point to check it on my own.
 
I cannot imagine having to buy race gas for all the riding I do.

Here is how to test for how much you can remove from the head:
Buy a new basegasket and cut duplicates from good quality paper.
Remove the original base gasket and try running your engine with just Yamabond sealler under the cylinder.
Listen for detonation (a rattle noise), preferably on long sand hillclimbs with a hot engine.
Add another paper basegasket (about 0.006") until the rattle goes away.
The diference in stock basegasket thickness vs what you are running is what you can shave the head, or you can just keep running the thinner basegaskets.
Stock head to piston (squish/quench) thickness is about 0.120" so lots of room to come and go on.

My son's engine rattled at 0.030" with the stock head and similar mods to yours.

The best performance comes with the head within 0.050"(ish!) of the piston and a chamber to match compression.
I'd suggest buying a Ken O'conner or other hemispherical chamber head and setting it up to 0.050" from the piston top using lead solder to gauge it and basegaskets to adjust it. Run the engine on good pump fuel and add more paper basegaskets if you hear any rattle. This will nearly double your hp yet still let you run hightest (93 octane) pump gas.

Raising and lowering the cylinder tends to raise and lower the powerband and the hp (very slightly) if the compression and head to piston height are kept the same.

Steve
 
My son's engine rattled at 0.030" with the stock head and similar mods to yours.

just not to confuse i think he means my blasty rattled det after removing 0.030" off my stock head with similar mods to yours

i dont recommend lowering your stock head any atall you probobly could an run 110 fuel but it wont make the power like a hemi head. Trust me getting a modhead is the first thing that should be done after a pipe.
 
New guy here... I just cut a new squish band/hemi head for my blaster just last week. I copied the DT200 head specs that "Best" and Triplecrown" posted in another thread. THANK YOU GENTLEMEN!!! It was a fun project! I just assembled the top end again with the new head. The cylinder has a "Aggresive Trail Port" using porting templates that John Caldwell designed. Before I put this newly designed/re-chambered head on my engine,the power was INCREDIBLE with just the ported cylinder. I'm going to be testing the new head today,or tomorrow. I have pictures of my work,and will post them as soon as I figure out how.

Ok I just figured out how... I also have a picture showing the arbor that I made to turn the heads that I do. And just for the heck of it,I also posted some pictures of the cylinder work that I do. I should be testing the head (thankyou "Best" and "Triplecrown") today,or tomorrow. Anyway,here are some pictures. I hope they turned out ok.

7319-100-2617-before-after.jpg


7320-100-2603-arbor-i-use-cut-heads.jpg


7321-100-2588-starting-cut.jpg


6857-here-my-cylinder-after-applying-aggresive-trail-port-porting-templates-power-absolutely-incredible.jpg


6858-here-two-intake-windows-created-porting-templates.jpg


6859-here-exhaust-port-using-porting-templates-i-stretched-porting-all-way-out-exhaust-gasket.jpg
 
Last edited:
Can these templates be bought somewhere?

YES! Right here >>>

Race Logic: World Class Performance

I've had them for quite some time. THEY WORK!!! The best part is that the reliability is still there!!! I'm thinking about doing a few porting videos if anybody is interested. I can show everybody how I do it. I have a bit different technique and tools that I use. I don't use a dremel. My tools are even less expensive and far easier to use,but the end results are VERY accurate I know that without question,I'm in the 30-32hp range! With 92 octane pump gas!

And.... YES...I still use the yamaha "Auto Lube" oil injection system!!! I have always used the oil injection system,and have for many years. It has never let me down and works perfectly. All the time and every time.


I've done all my own work which makes it very rewarding and inexpensive....
Porting,boring,squish band head,honing,port matching,etc,etc.
 
I:I
New guy here... I just cut a new squish band/hemi head for my blaster just last week. I copied the DT200 head specs that "Best" and Triplecrown" posted in another thread. THANK YOU GENTLEMEN!!! It was a fun project! I just assembled the top end again with the new head. The cylinder has a "Aggresive Trail Port" using porting templates that John Caldwell designed. Before I put this newly designed/re-chambered head on my engine,the power was INCREDIBLE with just the ported cylinder. I'm going to be testing the new head today,or tomorrow. I have pictures of my work,and will post them as soon as I figure out how.

Ok I just figured out how... I also have a picture showing the arbor that I made to turn the heads that I do. And just for the heck of it,I also posted some pictures of the cylinder work that I do. I should be testing the head (thankyou "Best" and "Triplecrown") today,or tomorrow. Anyway,here are some pictures. I hope they turned out ok.

7319-100-2617-before-after.jpg


7320-100-2603-arbor-i-use-cut-heads.jpg


7321-100-2588-starting-cut.jpg


6857-here-my-cylinder-after-applying-aggresive-trail-port-porting-templates-power-absolutely-incredible.jpg


6858-here-two-intake-windows-created-porting-templates.jpg


6859-here-exhaust-port-using-porting-templates-i-stretched-porting-all-way-out-exhaust-gasket.jpg


VERY NICE WORK BRO!!!

Ive got a ton of respect for those of you willing and able (MOSTLY ABLE) to tackle these type of mods at home!!!

I like the look of your work and look foward to a build thread from you sir!