machine clutch pressure plate and inside of basket for one extra steel and friction

98mod

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Feb 15, 2016
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Has anyone modified there clutch basket and plate to accept a extra friction and steel plate. I seen a kit on eBay where a company added a extra friction for there transmission kits to complement the big bore high power mods. I have done mods like this on a th350 transmission but wonder for budget builders like myself if I could measure on steel and on friction together and decide that figure by two and take that off the clutch pressure plate and the inside basket where the first friction sits to add one and one for better power handling
 
The stock clutch also comes with a "helper spring" for lack of a better word. That's why after market clutch kits come with xtra ,,,, they do away with the helper spring and thinner friction plate.


The stock Blaster came with round spring in place of a plate along with another larger inner diameter friction plate to help beginners learning to use a clutch..


I'll try and post a diagram of what I'm talking about..


#10 and #3 in the image I believe.. OEM clutch plates have dimples also.. After market usually HD clutches have flat steel plates with no dimples in order for the clutch the grab better.. The OEM dimpled plates assist in easier clutch engaging.. <<< That along with stiffer springs will make an HD clutch..
 

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I got ya, the stock cushion ring alongwith the thin 2nd friction can actually be removed and replaced with a regular with friction and steel
 
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I guess it would help to give you guys a basic outline of what I'm try to do. I picked up a 98 cheap had issues. Actually the only issue was abroken reed petal. I'm o.c.d. per sayso while replacing reeds and starting up I hear a bad knock. I tear down and find a wiseco forged piston 6600. Was happy for 2seconds checked play and didiscovered too much. So I puledl jug and piston scarred to hell. Did find it had hot rods crank #ck144. I Machined jug for namura high comp 66.5 and shaved head .2thousanthd and pocket ported and used vitos .018 gasket. She torques the frame on takeoff now. Now I'm feeling 2nd getting weak I want to mix match Kevlar frictions with good steels and was curious on adding the extras for extra umph. I really appreciate all the good info and tricks to squeezing out every bit I can all help is well taken
 
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Just need to ask.. Are you sure it's clutch slipping and not any other issue?
 
It's like pulsing or kinda jumping in second I pulled the clutch cover d oubble checked clutches there kinda thin. I ordered and just got moose steels in mail today and use Lucas high performance 10-40 motorcycle oil I prefer amsoil but budget won't allow and it's hard to get in my little town. She pulls hard though real hard in all gears just second pulses a bit for some reason in second gear and I hear a little clank in the bottom when I shift to second. I guess I can check the littleshift lever itself and see what is going ton from the jump from 1st to second gear. It does have to pass though neutral.
 
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Jus_me, is it ok to remove the helper spring and thin friction plate and replace with a regular one? Is that correct? And the stacking order per say would be just normal fric steel and so forth.
 
Don't understand why you would just buy steels? Full clutch kit with heavy springs = done..
However, your symptoms suggest something other than clutch.
Inspect rest of driveline. Then with chain and clutch off rotate shafts in neutral. Then shift thru each gear spinning shaft feeling for notchiness.
My bet will be on worn shift fork and/ or second gear dogs. Sorry.
 
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Thanks didn't think of shift fork. I just bought steels at moment because I got the moose steel ones new for a steal 8$ +2$ shipping I will grab some new frictions, I prefer Kevlar but might have to settle on carbon fiber, I just like the material and durability.
 
I prefer Kevlar but might have to settle on carbon fiber, I just like the material and durability.

you should read what Driveline Performance has experienced with these "exotic" fiber materials...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BLAS...ash=item4647b337e0:g:LPsAAOSwA4dWI8Nq&vxp=mtr

This kit was specifically designed for a Blaster with a 240 kit/stroker crank or heavily ported stock cylinder. We are very aware of the H.P. the Blaster is capable of making with all the mods that are available for this quad. We took our STD heavy duty clutch kit with the extra friction plate and added springs that are 25-30% stiffer (compared to 10-15% STD kit) to help handle the higher H.P. Blasters. This kit can be used for all around riding and or drag racing.This kit is proven to be the best clutch kit available for a modified Blaster.

We have been an ATV Dyno tuning facility since 1999. During this time we have logged over 15,000 Dyno runs on ATV’s. From the beginning, the most common thing we saw from quad to quad was that the clutch would slip under heavy load. This is instantly noticed when a quad is being Dynoed, because the rear of the bike is strapped down to the drums on the Dyno so that the tires do not slip and you can register horsepower.
When the tires are unable to spin freely like they do in the dirt, the entire load of the motor is held solely by the clutch. If it is weak, poor quality or badly worn it will break loose and the motor will rev up and the quad can’t put all the power to the ground.

1.We use cork style friction plates with a metallic base. We have tried all the different friction compounds available and these were the most durable. Kevlar type frictions had good wear properties but glazed over very quickly and started slipping compared to cork.

2.The steel plates are the most important component in the strength and durability of a good quality clutch kit. Our steels are smooth on both sides and full size unlike the half moon shaped stock steel plates, most clutch kits have “dimpled” or “textured” steel plates. THESE STEEL PLATES DO NOT LAST AS LONG AND DO NOT HOLD AS MUCH HORSEPOWER AS SMOOTH PLATES. "Dimples" are concave in shape and reduce surface material and contact area causing the clutch to slip easier. We have done tests where we had quads that had a slipping clutch (the clutch that was in it was new). We took the “dimpled” steels out and replaced them with smooth steels and the clutch stopped slipping.

3. Springs are equally important, we use a spring that is 10%-15% stiffer than stock. This helps with pressure on the friction and steel plates limiting clutch slippage.

4. For the Blaster we have added an extra full size friction plate. This gives you the opprtunity to remove and replace the larger I.D. friction plate that fits over the steel ring and wave washer and use a full size friction. This will give you more clutch contact surface area reducing slippage and capable of handling higher H.P. This kit works well with 240 big bore kits that can more than double the stock horsepower. The purpose of the wave washer is to cushion the clutch engagement, removing it has been a common practice for many years and will not affect the perfromance of the clutch. We still include the standard larger I.D. friction incase you want to run it. This is the only clutch kit on the market that offers you this option.


It's a total package..... cork fibers, smooth steels, heavier springs and their recommended Mobile1 full synth 4T oil !
I'm a believer, my Driveline HD clutch is on it's 4th season on my heavily ported/modded KOR engine and is showing no signs of wear or slipping.
the 3-4 times I've had the clutch cover off for various reasons shows almost no clutch material laying in the bottom, as is the case on every other clutch cover I've had open.
NO, I'm not associated with driveline what so ever, but they just work !
 
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