Little help Please.

Joe Llamahead

New Member
Apr 26, 2010
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Hi Guys I've been lurking here off and on ,
I am a Rhino Guy for the most part however I have recently aquired My Sons Blaster.
He has gone in the US Army to be a warrant officer/helicopter Pilot program. We used to ride the dunes, He rode a blaster that we put in a Tri Z engine and rear swing arm shock ect. I aquired it from him so It will stay here for when he come back to his home town and has time to ride. besides it's kind of a sentimental Father son project.

My rhino was not running for Dunefest here In Oregon so I took the blaster. Wow that thing is hard on an old guy! it's real pipey and has to be wound up all the time. to pull this 250 lb geezer up big dunes.
it needs some long travel on the front and some piggyback shocks.I can figure that out ez enough.

But for now I would like to focus on getting a wider power band so it would be a bit more forgiving.........any sugestions?

I think there is a thread here on the forum about his quad but I've searched and cant find it.
any info you all could offer would be greatly appreciated.
 
so your rocking a tri z engine right??
i think thats why your bike has such a narrow powerband, just like a dirtbike has a narrow band
 
Yep TRi Z narrow power band .....
so can a YZ power valve be swapped onto this TRIZ engine perhaps that would broaden the power band?
 
The powervalve on the YZ's (at least the older model I have) is internal flyball governor with associated linkage. Unless you swapped an entire YZ engine in I don't see how you'd make the YZ system work on a Tri-Z bottom end unless.....

The powervalve on the DT200 was controlled by a seperate electrical solenoid which was mounted to the frame and had a cable running over to the cylinder. It's possible you could source a solenoid and figure out some way to modify the YZ cylinder to accept the control cable. It would then open the powervalve just like the governor does on the YZ cylinder but you wouldn't have to have the mechanical linkage parts.

The only problem with that plan is that you'd then have to have a real electrical system to run the solenoid. You could stuff a little battery in the back and not have a charging circuit but your powervalve would eventually stop working when the battery goes dead. You'd have to top the battery off before every ride and hope you make it back before the battery's done.
 
I don't know squat about TriZ motors or DT200s, but if that electrical powervalve could be made to work, I don't see why the lighting circuit on a blaster couldn't charge a battery or at least power the valve. It is a regulated source putting out 13.5-14.1 volts.
 
I don't know squat about TriZ motors or DT200s, but if that electrical powervalve could be made to work, I don't see why the lighting circuit on a blaster couldn't charge a battery or at least power the valve. It is a regulated source putting out 13.5-14.1 volts.

I'll have to verify but I beleive the stock lighting system is AC (alternating curent)it could be rectified and made dc (direct curent) to feed a battery but there will be some voltage lost and it may fall below any useable voltage. If the current demands of the solenoid are too much for the generator perhaps a big capasitor could work?
 
Def an AC source, but adding a rectifier is easy enough. I would think since the stator puts out excess current, the load would still be regulated at the appropriate voltage. A solenoid shouldn't be that major of a draw anyway, not anywhere near lights. Back to storage, a battery is easy enough. A big capacitor would smooth out the spikes if the voltage truly fluctuated, call it a backup plan.