jug torque

They are crucial to the motor to torque them to spec...... After you break the motor in you should recheck them to make sure they are still to spec. The torque setting is 18 ftlbs oe 25Nm.

You should also do them in a criss cross pattern.....
 
i just did the recommended torque specs, and re-torqued them after the heat cycles, and had a headgasket leak the first ride out, but thats on my cut head with way more than stock compression
talked to a few guys with more knowledge than me, and they said they crank them tight, i did that, way more than the specs, and have had no troubles since then
 
yeh i got the specs and pulled out my wrench and scratched my head, just tightened it and did one tap with my hand hasnt ran yet tho still waiting on a pipe jets yb ship my swinger back
 
i took an old 13mm socket, drilled a hole for a phllips screwdriver to fit in and just cranked the 2 front base bolts fairly tight like the rest
 
A crows foot will change the ft-lbs (or in-lbs) by a tad depending on how it's oriented. Really not that big of a deal as long as the wrench and crows foot is in the same orientation for all of them.

That being said, I've rebuilt enough motors to know by feel what the proper torque is. believe me, it's takes some trial and ERROR!! haha. It sucks when you have everything almost together and then bam, last bolt breaks. I now have a magic touch!!

As long as you're in the general range for torque, what really is more important than the actual ft-lb spec or whatever is that they're all torqued down EVENLY (meaning in the cross pattern) and to the SAME torque. The actual number, eh, whatever, as long as it's at or greater and in the general range, you're good. The even and same torque is the most important part.