jetting question on a 96 blaster?

C

Coollaxer

New Member
Jan 5, 2014
197
3
18
35
center moriches, new york
hey everyone im new to this tread and this is also my first post, so i recently ( lastnight ) finished rebuilding my blaster and it has an lrd full exuast, k&n filter, bored over 1 milimeter, and removed airbox lid. now the guy i got it form i just found out that it has a stock 230 main in it right now and im pretty sure that thats wrong being that lrd reccomends a 290?? so im not sure what to put myt jetting at for the main, pilot and needel.. help!!

thanks, shane

I:I
 
i would say 310-330 main, maybe even a 340 with the k&n filter...

You should leak test the motor before doing anything else, if you have an airleak theres no point in us telling you jets...
 
ok, thank you for that information. and if there is no leaks and everythings good, wich i felt the kick starter and has good compression if that has anyhting to do with it, would a 290 - 310 be to lean?
 
No, the kickstart doesnt have anything to do with it. Thats compression.

I would order some bigger jets, you would be running lean on those.

You should also do a plug chop once you get it leak free and jetted close
 
LRD = #290
K&N filter = + 1 or 2 sizes.
Lid off =+ 2 more sizes.
32:1 premix = + 1 size.
Cooler weather = + even more.
Plug chop a #340 and work back.

NB needle in middle slot, usually..

I am not really sure if the needle could benefit from being raised one clip, plug chop at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle to confirm.

.................................................................................


Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

2wr2fwo.jpg



This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

plug152mainmediumoi2.jpg


You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

..................................................................................

14mqc1y.jpg



 
Last edited by a moderator:
And one last question, will the jetting I'm running now hurt my blaster? Or is it mandatory to go up to around a 320 main since my local dealer told me he can't tell me what jetting to use since the air box lid is off and that it should be fine at 230. And a reminder the mods are brand new bore (over 1 millimeter ) k&n, full lrd exuast and no air box lid, thanks in advance, sorry I'm a newbie!!
 
Coollaxer said:
And one last question, will the jetting I'm running now hurt my blaster? Or is it mandatory to go up to around a 320 main since my local dealer told me he can't tell me what jetting to use since the air box lid is off and that it should be fine at 230. And a reminder the mods are brand new bore (over 1 millimeter ) k&n, full lrd exuast and no air box lid, thanks in advance, sorry I'm a newbie!!
Click to expand...

In a word "yes".

I very much doubt that a #230 main jet would pass enough fuel to feed the needle circuit to satisfy the LRD.

And in three words "change your dealer"

Did your dealer inform you to perform heat cycles and to run 2 tanks of gas through at no more than 3/4 throttle before you plug chop.?
 
Blaaster said:
LRD = #290
K&N filter = + 1 or 2 sizes.
Lid off =+ 2 more sizes.
32:1 premix = + 1 size.
Cooler weather = + even more.
Plug chop a #340 and work back.

NB needle in middle slot, usually..

I am not really sure if the needle could benefit from being raised one clip, plug chop at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle to
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

2wr2fwo.jpg



This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

plug152mainmediumoi2.jpg


You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

..................................................................................

14mqc1y.jpg


How To Perform a Leak Down Test – YouTube

Demonstrating a Leak Down Test performed on a Yamaha Blaster – YouTube
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot this is great info!
 
Blaaster said:
In a word "yes".

I very much doubt that a #230 main jet would pass enough fuel to feed the needle circuit to satisfy the LRD.

And in three words "change your dealer"

Did your dealer inform you to perform heat cycles and to run 2 tanks of gas through at no more than 3/4 throttle before you plug chop.?
Click to expand...

He didn't inform me of a plug chop I found that out by reading in hear and he told me only 1 heat cycle is necessary and to run one tank of gas through it and to ride around in 3rd gear with varying RPM's and everything should be good after that, is that bad information?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i ran an lrd pipe on my stock engine black bike, it required a 330 main jet w/ airbox lid off running 32:1 premix fuel, stock 32.5 pilot, needle clip in the middle
that was in the warm summer months, at my 1800'+ elevation. lower elevations will require even richer jetting.

it can require + 1 main jet size for every 10-20 degree drop in temps. adjust the airscrew for high idle and possibly raise the needle 1 clip position (drop clip)
a 330 main for summer will fry your piston at 30 degrees, you must plug chop for the changing temps until you figure out what works for your bike at different temps.

heat cycles/break-in.......
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/la-sleeve-ct-racing-recommended-engine-break-50702/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/blaster-engine-break-44174/


go to your dealership for jets, emergency parts and oil, only
get your info here :)
 
Awk08 said:
i ran an lrd pipe on my stock engine black bike, it required a 330 main jet w/ airbox lid off running 32:1 premix fuel, stock 32.5 pilot, needle clip in the middle
that was in the warm summer months, at my 1800'+ elevation. lower elevations will require even richer jetting.

it can require + 1 main jet size for every 10-20 degree drop in temps. adjust the airscrew for high idle and possibly raise the needle 1 clip position (drop clip)
a 330 main for summer will fry your piston at 30 degrees, you must plug chop for the changing temps until you figure out what works for your bike at different temps.

heat cycles/break-in.......
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/la-sleeve-ct-racing-recommended-engine-break-50702/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/blaster-engine-break-44174/


go to your dealership for jets, emergency parts and oil, only
get your info here :)
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks, what hurting would you reccomend me starting at it my elevation is aproxx 30 feet and I live in New York?
 
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