ITP vs Kenda?

DeJay1206

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Sep 17, 2013
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Leechburg, PA
I want to get new rear tires... I have been trying to decide between ITP mud lite at tires. They are 22x11x8 6 ply rated. The other set I'm looking at is a set of Kenda Bear Claws that are 22x12x8. I like the clearance that 22s will give me. I might drop down the sprocket size one size smaller to compensate for Tue bigger tires since I mostly do hill climbs and don't wanna lose power going up them. What do you guys suggest? Which tire, and should I drop the front sprocket size one or keep it at the stock 13. Remember, I mostly ride hill climbs.
 
For mostly hill climbs, I'd go with the kendas. From what I've heard, the itp mud lites aren't as good for medium/hard surfaces. As for the front sprocket, I've never heard of dropping down to 12 teeth. You might run the risk of not having the recommended amount of engaged teeth. You could oversize the rear sprocket from 40 to 43 and that would essentially do the same as reducing the front sprocket.
 
So, upping the rear sprocket gives you more torque? I would think it'd be the opposite.

And yeah, I've had experience with the kendas before and they were great but I'm worried about having a +4 axle with 12 inch wide tires being too wide for trails.
 
Our buddy runs 22" rears with a 12 tooth sprocket and runs great!! I would go with Kendra klaws.. imho!!

I think I'm gonna get the kendas and try them with the stock front sprocket. If I lose power enough on hill climbs where I need to change it I'll throw a 12 on or switch up the rear sprocket.
 
I have run Bear claws land cannot fault them.

No problems with a 12 tooth front sprocket providing the train is in good condition and adjusted properly.

Remember you cannot just throw on a new front sprocket, you have to replace both sprockets and chain.

If you don't you run the risk of a broken chain, case, leg and wallet!
 
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I have run Bear claws land cannot fault them.

No problems with a 12 tooth front sprocket providing the train is in good condition and adjusted properly.

Remember you cannot just throw on a new front sprocket, you have to replace both sprockets and chain.

If you don't you run the risk of a broken chain, case, leg and wallet!

Do you run them with the stock sprockets, and are they the 22x12x8? What is that big of a tire like going uphill?
 
The tires are gonna be 12 inches wide. Plus I already have a +4 axle. That's my biggest concern is that it's just gonna be way too wide to be practical in the woods.
 
How wide and what kind are the tires you have Now? Also tire sizing isn't that accurate. Also depends on rim width, a slightly narrow rim would make the tire narrower but taller, by a little bit.
 
Im running 21x 11x 8 with a front 14 and rear 43. I can start off in 2nd gear with no problem and use 1st as a granny gear. It tops out at about 56 mph but the woods course has a lot of steep up hills and tight corners.
 
1 tooth on the front = 3 teeth on the rear.

Dunno what rich means about binding, I run a matching, well lubricated chain on a 12 tooth front with no problems.

Of course if you just chuck a new 13 on with an old chain, then the disasterous results could be blamed on the chain binding.

As I always state and will state again, new sprockets with a new chain everything will be hunky dory.

Mix and match old with new and expect catastrophic results.
 
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I'm running a set of klaws 22x11x8 right now on stock gearing and I like it for trail and hills climbs but I'm also running a bbk with KOR head and porting work and a trinity pipe and I'm a big guy 300+ lbs
Width was also one of my concerns on the trails I got a stock rear axle and Douglas red label rims and I'm just as wide as front is with a set of +3 asr arms I was gonna get spacers for the rear but I don't think I'm gonna bother since the rear is just as wide as the front I think I'm about 45-46 inches wide
 
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I'll try it out with the stock size sprockets. If that does t work well then I'll get a new chain and sprockets.

I have a triple port, head mod, and the f7 so I'm far from stock as well... It should be fine but if I'm losing power going up long hill climbs I'm gonna have to bump it down a little.
 
1 tooth on the front = 3 teeth on the rear.

Dunno what rich means about binding, I run a matching, well lubricated chain on a 12 tooth front with no problems.

Of course if you just chuck a new 13 on with an old chain, then the disasterous results could be blamed on the chain binding.

As I always state and will state again, new sprockets with a new chain everything will be hunky dory.

Mix and match old with new and expect catastrophic results.

What exactly is it that makes you need a new chain when changing the sprockets? Are they worn over time for your specific sprocket or something? That makes sense, but just trying to get more info.
 
As chains wear they get longer and they in turn wear the sprocket to suit their dimensions.

The first obvious sign that wear is present shows in the sprocket.

Folks then change the sprocket that shows wear ( almost always the front one), the long chain with different dimensions between the links attack the sprocket trying to shape it to its dimensions.

If you fit a new chain to used sprockets a similar problem occurs, the sprocket teeth pitch will not suit the dimensions of the chain.

In either case both the sprocket and the chain will fight to make the other to fit its own dimensions and cause excessive wear.

Chain adjusting becomes difficult, often impossible because as the sprockets rotate the chain will experience slack and tight periods as it tries to accommodate the differences in pitch.

An old chain on new sprockets will bunch and attempt to take the next tooth.

An new chain on old sprockets will ramp teeth causing the chain to tighten.

In either cases the components will suffer extreme stress often breaking the chain resulting in component, mechanical, financial and physical damage.

Phew!
 
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