Tomorrow im going to split my case to.replace my crank seals. Ive never done it before but i will try my best. Anyone have any advice or tips?
Im splitting my cases
- Thread starter Myblasterisblue
- Start date
just undo all the phillips screw and hit it with a rubber mallet I took the bolts off holding all the gears on. IDK if that is neccesary but it is simple
Whoa hang on just a mo.
Not so simple, to do the job properly you need a special tool to split the cases.
If you only need to replace the seals there is no need to split, they can be removed/replaced from the outside.
Unless the piston, rings and bore show signs of wear, you should be able to reuse them, but you wont need to even take the head off to replace the crankcase seals.
Not so simple, to do the job properly you need a special tool to split the cases.
If you only need to replace the seals there is no need to split, they can be removed/replaced from the outside.
Unless the piston, rings and bore show signs of wear, you should be able to reuse them, but you wont need to even take the head off to replace the crankcase seals.
Wait a Minute here , Crank Seals do not Require Splitting the Cases unless you Simply want to clean out the motor and Inspect bearings and Clearances and Tolerances on Wearable parts ,
To Remove the Flywheel you need - Flywheel Puller , Flywheel Holding tool
To Remove the Clutch Boss you Will need a Clutch Holding tool
Whenever you remove the Piston from the Cylinder Its normally a good idea to Replace the rings and Inspect the Cylinder
When you replace the Crank seals Remember to Grease the inside of the Seals , I used White Lithium grease and Worked Like it should
To Remove the Flywheel you need - Flywheel Puller , Flywheel Holding tool
To Remove the Clutch Boss you Will need a Clutch Holding tool
Whenever you remove the Piston from the Cylinder Its normally a good idea to Replace the rings and Inspect the Cylinder
When you replace the Crank seals Remember to Grease the inside of the Seals , I used White Lithium grease and Worked Like it should
just like Blasterbruce is saying, those are the tools to use if u dont want to damage anything. Do not ...do not just stick in a phillips screwdriver to open anything or split your cases with. And bro keep that hammer far away!
thanks guys. Rep given. I was going to split my cases because when i put gear oil in my crankcase, i go ride and all my oil burns out my exhaust so i was under the impression i needed to split to replace inner seals. Anyone have a easier way to replace my seals?
Already did. I know all about air,leaks so i made a airleak tester and checked it twice. Once before i bought the blaster and once after i fixed my leaks
Good, so you know the seals are shot.
Do as blasterBruce says.
To remove the seals, use 2 drywall screws, one opposite eack other and screw them into the seal about 2 threads deep.
Take 2 pairs of pliers/grips and grab each screw and uniformly pull the seal out.
Do as blasterBruce says.
To remove the seals, use 2 drywall screws, one opposite eack other and screw them into the seal about 2 threads deep.
Take 2 pairs of pliers/grips and grab each screw and uniformly pull the seal out.
No air leaks, no need to replace crankcase seals.:-/
Is your crankcase breather blocked?
What oil are you using and what ratio?
Is the smoke white an very smelly?
Maybe you are confusing the burning of a rich mix with the burning of gear oil.
I mix maxima super m 32:1 with 91 octane and a fresh plug every ride. The guy put silicone in the breather hole and im not confusing anything. It is white and smells like the belray gearsaver i use.
The reason may be because the breather is plugged up.
Pressure due to heat expansion in the gearbox will cause oil to be forced past the seals into the crankcase.
Remove that silicone plug and re do the leak down test.
Pressure due to heat expansion in the gearbox will cause oil to be forced past the seals into the crankcase.
Remove that silicone plug and re do the leak down test.
What ever you do, do not ride it again until you have proved that the bottom end is air tight.
It would have passed a leak down test if the seals were bad and the breather tube was plugged.
Remove the blockage and put the tube in a jar of water the see if any bubbles appear when you leak test it again.
It would have passed a leak down test if the seals were bad and the breather tube was plugged.
Remove the blockage and put the tube in a jar of water the see if any bubbles appear when you leak test it again.
The seals might be bad. Like i said, when i put oil in my crankcase and go for a ride when i stop somewhere and look, its empty. It doesnt leak underneath and i only go to 7psi with the tester. I cant ride it anyways. I have half the motor torn apart. And last night when i took my exhaust off, there was quite a bit of gear oil in the exhaust. It was burned but i could still smell it
He said it passed the leak test, it would if the seals were bad and the breather was blocked.
My guess is that the PO blocked the breather because oil was spilling out either because it was over filled or the seals were bad.
Unblocking the breather and leak testing will find if the seals need replacing.
My guess is that the PO blocked the breather because oil was spilling out either because it was over filled or the seals were bad.
Unblocking the breather and leak testing will find if the seals need replacing.
Its kinda late now. I have the engine half way tore down. i already got my case seal kit and am going to change them anyways. Then i will perform another leak test
